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Post by rocketfella on Apr 13, 2015 6:28:46 GMT
Hi nice build im currently looking at building one myself and going down the same engine route as yourself and was woundering how you got round the gear change problem? Would have messaged you this but cant seem to work it yet. Hi, what exactly do you mean by gear change problem? I'm just having new gear change cables made as the current ones are not long enough. Well i was thinking buy buy mounting the engine in the rear it would make the gears opposite to what they would be didnt know if you could swap the cables round like they do in the ford conversion? |
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Post by carlyd on Apr 13, 2015 14:09:37 GMT
Moving the gear selector around does'nt change the gear selector meachnics, you just need longer cables.
Imagine if you take the selector out of the car but leave the cables attached. You could physically move the selector left, right, above or below the engine as the selector just moves the cables, it doesn't matter where the selector is mounted in front of the engine or behind makes no difference.
It took me a while to figure that one out.
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Post by rocketfella on Apr 13, 2015 16:01:02 GMT
Spot on mate thanks for some reason id git into my head that by moving the engine behind the gear stick it would reverse the gears so 1,3,5 would be were 2,4,6 would be
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Post by mr9802 on Apr 13, 2015 19:08:20 GMT
I've fitted the engine. It literally took 30 minutes on my own. I was very surprised how easily it went in.   I've almost done the cooling and am now on with the wiring. Many Thanks to Deano for advising and lending me a genuine Honda wiring diagram. I think I've figured it out so I'll post pics of the wiring as I'm doing it. This is looking really nice Carl! Do you have any additional pictures of the engine mounting? Also trying to see the tranny mount if you got them. Thanks! |
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 14, 2015 14:13:30 GMT
Spot on mate thanks for some reason id git into my head that by moving the engine behind the gear stick it would reverse the gears so 1,3,5 would be were 2,4,6 would be If the engine moves relative to gear selector the positions would be reversed; ion the donor cars the gearcable runs from the front of the selector to the front of the car. We move the engine to the back, which reverses the pattern. If your cables come out the back of your selector, you need a different gear selector (us ST170 boys need the Focus 1.8, the IB5 guys need the MK1 Mondeo) that reverses the throw. The other solution, which I think Carl is going for, is common amongst Sonic owners, you get a big ass long cable, and the cables still come out the front of the selector, but loop around and go to the rear of the vehicle where the engine is, giving you in effect, the same directionality an on the donor. Spell check says that's not a word, I say it's a perfectly cromulent word. |
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Post by carlyd on Apr 14, 2015 15:23:31 GMT
Spot on mate thanks for some reason id git into my head that by moving the engine behind the gear stick it would reverse the gears so 1,3,5 would be were 2,4,6 would be If the engine moves relative to gear selector the positions would be reversed; ion the donor cars the gearcable runs from the front of the selector to the front of the car. We move the engine to the back, which reverses the pattern. If your cables come out the back of your selector, you need a different gear selector (us ST170 boys need the Focus 1.8, the IB5 guys need the MK1 Mondeo) that reverses the throw. The other solution, which I think Carl is going for, is common amongst Sonic owners, you get a big ass long cable, and the cables still come out the front of the selector, but loop around and go to the rear of the vehicle where the engine is, giving you in effect, the same directionality an on the donor. Spell check says that's not a word, I say it's a perfectly cromulent word. Exactly right. The cables still come out of the front of the selector. |
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Post by carlyd on Apr 14, 2015 15:29:51 GMT
here are the engine mounts, which RTR altered for me. I just gave them my engine and luke worked his magic. It did costs me about £400 for new engine mounts though. And then I have the extra expense of custom drive shafts which I am being quoted from £500 - £750 to make. Plus the cost of custom made gear selector cables. So this is working out to be quite a bit more expensive than using the focus engine and gearbox. The payoff will be the extra BHP and the rev range as the Type R engine revs happily up to 9,000 rpm.     |
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Post by carlyd on Apr 14, 2015 15:40:36 GMT
So this using the Honda engine thing is causing me more problems. The RTR fuel filler pipe fouls on the alternator (see picture below)  It looks like my welder will have to move the filler neck. |
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 14, 2015 16:17:49 GMT
Or put the tank up front?
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Post by carlyd on Apr 14, 2015 16:24:19 GMT
Or put the tank up front? I have the radiator up front, although I am considering having side pods with radiators in them. This would allow me to move the fuel tank up front. Due to having wider than average seats I am having to trim the center tunnel down. If I didn't have to run radiator pipes the full length of the car it would free up a lot of space in the center tunnel too.. hmmmm  |
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Post by rocketfella on Apr 14, 2015 17:04:13 GMT
Spot on mate thanks for some reason id git into my head that by moving the engine behind the gear stick it would reverse the gears so 1,3,5 would be were 2,4,6 would be If the engine moves relative to gear selector the positions would be reversed; ion the donor cars the gearcable runs from the front of the selector to the front of the car. We move the engine to the back, which reverses the pattern. If your cables come out the back of your selector, you need a different gear selector (us ST170 boys need the Focus 1.8, the IB5 guys need the MK1 Mondeo) that reverses the throw. The other solution, which I think Carl is going for, is common amongst Sonic owners, you get a big ass long cable, and the cables still come out the front of the selector, but loop around and go to the rear of the vehicle where the engine is, giving you in effect, the same directionality an on the donor. Spell check says that's not a word, I say it's a perfectly cromulent word. Got ya makes sense to me now gonna need some really long cables |
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Post by mr9802 on Apr 14, 2015 17:49:23 GMT
Thanks Carlyd! I really want to go down the route of the Type R or Type S motor (K20A2) but will have to do like you are doing and custom a lot of parts. I find that the CV axles are shorter on the honda drive train and the splines are different. I found a company here in the states to make custom shafts but it gets costly quick! from my figures it will be an extra 4K USD to have the 30-60 extra HP. Hmm I have some thinking todo but have to admit your setup has me drooling!
Thanks for the pictures as this helps with what is needed.
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Post by carlyd on Apr 14, 2015 18:25:25 GMT
It's not just extra bhp is the way it's delivered that I like. I can drive it on the road nice and steady upto 5000 rpm but when I want bonkers I rev it past 5000 rpm and the vtec kicks in right up to 9000 rpm, great for track use too. Also it's not too expensive to get 300+ bhp out of it if you want more power.
The Aerial atom 350 uses this engine but with supercharger but costs almost £60 k so the rocket is (a bit) cheaper.
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 14, 2015 19:20:48 GMT
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Post by rossco on Apr 14, 2015 21:26:21 GMT
Hi,
In one of your previous posts you mentioned having gear selector cables extended.
Where would you suggest I start looking.
Ross
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