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Post by greg on Dec 23, 2014 14:45:19 GMT
Mine cleared the calipers without the spacers.... Donno what to say...
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 28, 2014 23:13:58 GMT
I was able to drive a half hour out of the way to Christmas at the in-laws and pick up a Torsen type 1 LSD for $400.  It came out of a 95 M edition that was wrecked bad enough to snap one of the arms off of the diff housing but it looks and feels ok. I was able to get the diff bushings out by cutting the centers out and using an air hammer to push the rest of the bits out. Probably only took about 15 minutes. I also used a torch and cooked the rubber parts off the cross member washer. Once they got hot enough the rubber practically popped right off. A quick trip to the wire wheel and then they were off to be painted. |
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montgom
Full
Love Exocet
Posts: 274
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Post by montgom on Dec 28, 2014 23:58:43 GMT
I am always amazed at how much the LSD are used!!!!
Nice find.
Robert
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 29, 2014 2:25:01 GMT
The diff has been reinstalled into the rear sub frame!  The reassembly has now officially begun. The Little Big Brake kit is supposed to arrive on Friday the 2nd. I hope to be ready to install it and the tires/wheels when it gets here and be back to a complete roller skate. |
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montgom
Full
Love Exocet
Posts: 274
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Post by montgom on Dec 29, 2014 3:23:29 GMT
You making great progress!
Robert
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Post by gl21133 on Dec 29, 2014 3:51:10 GMT
Glad you found a Torsen! Of course now that mine is gone I'm considering finding another to do a full R package option swap on my 97 ES Miata  . Also, FWIW the housing arms are intended to be the failure point in a crash, so the rest is likely just fine. |
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montgom
Full
Love Exocet
Posts: 274
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Post by montgom on Dec 29, 2014 14:45:45 GMT
Also, FWIW the housing arms are intended to be the failure point in a crash, so the rest is likely just fine. Good to know. Robert |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 31, 2014 15:35:55 GMT
I just found this this Very Grey beauty on the Exomotive Instagram page:  I am going to go and pick it up on Monday. Pretty excited right now. |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 31, 2014 21:06:58 GMT
The picture of my completed frame from Exomotive has kicked me into gear on my roller skate. I started by attaching the PPF and rear support to the rear sub-frame. I then added the upper and lower arms, axles, hubs, and swaybar.  I lifted the engine off of the stand and replacing the rear main seal. It was very easy to do. I used a small punch to knock one side of the seal in and the other side popped right out. The new one went in easily with the help of a small dead blow hammer. Then came the Happy Meal:  |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 31, 2014 21:50:56 GMT
I set the front and rear sub-frames on some 4x4s on movers dollies. It seems pretty stable and allows me to move things around. I dropped the engine down into the front sub-frame and bolted it up.  I then used the engine hoist to pick up the transmission and used a jack to help align the shaft. It didn't want to go in until I used the drive shaft to turn the transmission a bit then it went right together. I attached the drive shaft to the diff and the transmission to the PPF. Some front suspension parts and I have something that looks like a car again.  side view  The little big brake kit and rotors should be here Friday along with the V-Maxx coil overs. The OBX header and K&N intake should be here Saturday. So the question is: How do you level out the PPF with the transmission without the Miata frame rails to measure off of? |
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Post by einy on Dec 31, 2014 22:12:35 GMT
Anxious to hear the answer to that question myself, as I am just about to do the same myself!
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Post by greg on Dec 31, 2014 23:01:01 GMT
You don't. I left my trans to PPF bolts loose and will line everything up when I get the chassis.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 31, 2014 23:48:44 GMT
You don't. I left my trans to PPF bolts loose and will line everything up when I get the chassis. That was my plan. Just wanted to make sure that there was not some secret voodoo dance needed to get it square before dropping the frame on it. |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 1, 2015 1:54:22 GMT
I reinstalled the alternator, starter, and the wiring harness with the fuse block.  I also installed the new clutch slave cylinder and the "race length" braided stainless clutch line and removed a couple of now unneeded brackets that hold the rubber and steel coil clutch line. I had just reinstalled those brackets earlier today.  This is where the chassis sits now. I probably will not get any more work done on the car this year. |
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 1, 2015 9:16:17 GMT
Leave the bolts loose on both ends of the PPF it will help in lining up bolt holes in the frame..
The angle for the trans/diff/drive shaft will be adjusted with the PPF trans bolts. You will want to set it just off straight like one degree so the U joints will load up..
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