|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 6, 2015 22:05:21 GMT
Another small update, I got the intake tube and sway bars back from powder coat.  The red on the intake now matches the silicone radiator hoses and springs on the coil overs. I think the red sways look pretty sweet too. ![]()  I also installed a Mr Gasket 9135 Stainless Radiator Fluid Reservoir. I am not super happy with the mounting setup but it will work for now and I can figure out something better later. With any luck I will fire the engine up tonight or tomorrow. If it starts, then the wire harness will get hacked to pieces. |
|
|
|
Post by JIDiesel on Mar 7, 2015 0:25:48 GMT
Looking great, good luck with the wiring.
|
|
|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 7, 2015 3:01:06 GMT
Well I got it to fire...
Sort of. It ran for a few seconds then died. That's why I don't look quite as happy as you would expect. If I jump the F/P and Ground in the diagnostics port it stays running but the #1 cylinder exhaust manifold pipe is cold. It has spark. Could it be a bad injector?
|
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Mar 7, 2015 4:47:16 GMT
Check the light green wire off the PCM to the fuel pump relay.It supplies a ground to the fuel pump relay..
Same as jumping the FP (LG wire)to Grd. in dia box. Can you hear the injector clicking as loud as others when engine running..screwdriver to injector and ear..
|
|
|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 7, 2015 22:57:26 GMT
OK! So the car is running great now. First I made sure that all of the grounds were grounded. (by attaching them all to a piece of copper wire with vice grips) Then I checked the CEL codes. One for the barometric pressure sensor and one for the fuel tank pressure sensor. So I plugged those both in. Not attached to anything, but plugged in. That cleared both of the immediate the CEL codes. I am sure some will pop up as the car is driven and the computer figures out that the EGR and evap system are no longer there. So at this point the car would stay running but it was a rough at best. Then I found the real problem I for got to plug the three (!) unused vacuum port in the intake. Plugged those up and now it runs like a champ.
Now I can get to chopping wires and continue waiting on Exomotive to ship my top hat spacers. (that I ordered over a month ago)
|
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Mar 7, 2015 23:34:28 GMT
Glad you got it running, I know the feeling! I'm still waiting on my spacers as well, ordered em a few hours after they put them on FB.
|
|
|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 8, 2015 1:33:01 GMT
Its really alive now! Check out my awesome test grounding method on the right hand side at the beginning of the video.
Its a piece of romex ground wire with all the miata grounds clamped to it with vice grips.
The horrible noise at about 30 seconds is caused some loose tools and hardware rattling around on the floor board.
|
|
|
|
Post by einy on Mar 9, 2015 11:03:00 GMT
Sweet!
|
|
|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 24, 2015 13:35:07 GMT
It has been awhile since I posted anything mostly because I hadn't done anything. But my top hat spacers finally arrived so I installed those and took the car down off the jack stands. I also came up with a fairly painless way to mount the headlights.  I picked up these bolt on clamps and welded on a piece of 3/16"x2" steel. I also mounted the turn signals to the bracket on the side of the headlights.  I origionally mounted the turn signals on the plate but they looked a bit odd out there all by themselves.  I am still working on finishing up the wiring but it is close to done and the car still starts and runs so it seems like I didn't cut out anything too important. Probably the most interesting thing is that I have started the process for getting it registered. Alabama requires that you apply for a new VIN number. They wanted the MSO for the frame and a copy of the title for the engine and transmission along with a notarized affidavit stating why I need a new VIN number and a short form. The state will process my application then send an inspector to verify the VIN numbers on the engine and transmission and then affix the new VIN plate. From there it seems that I just go down to the DMV and register it. I don't think there is any road worthiness inspection, but I could be wrong. Nobody can give me a good answer on that part. Liftlaws.com has good breakdowns on what may be required in your state. Alabama law makes no mention of whether or not a windshield is required but wipers are mandatory. Fenders do not seem to be required. |
|
|
|
Post by papabear on Mar 24, 2015 14:12:15 GMT
Your making quick progress. I am really looking forward to seeing how your registration goes as I will be doing the same in Alabama. Question about your headlights have you swapped the low and high beams or can you even do that on these headlights? I don't know if the lenses are specific.
|
|
|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 24, 2015 14:18:14 GMT
The lenses are different. I did swap one side. It's a fairly easy process. The lights have 4 screws on the back side that clamp the two pieces of the housing to the bracket. If you remove those and push the rubber grommet on the back into the housing then you can take everything apart and swap the lens and lamp. Took me about 10 minutes to get it done.
|
|
|
|
Post by papabear on Mar 24, 2015 14:33:43 GMT
The lenses are different. I did swap one side. It's a fairly easy process. The lights have 4 screws on the back side that clamp the two pieces of the housing to the bracket. If you remove those and push the rubber grommet on the back into the housing then you can take everything apart and swap the lens and lamp. Took me about 10 minutes to get it done. Thanks for letting me know. I like the look of the smaller lights. I am curious how you like the light output after you get a chance to drive it at night. |
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Mar 24, 2015 15:18:30 GMT
Are the clamps pretty solid? I was going to attach mine to 2 points on the frame, but might not now. Do you have a link for the clamps you got? Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by gl21133 on Mar 24, 2015 15:33:30 GMT
Are the clamps pretty solid? I was going to attach mine to 2 points on the frame, but might not now. Do you have a link for the clamps you got? Thanks From the post: www.ebay.com/itm/like/151623578148 |
|
|
|
Post by ImprobableConstruct on Mar 24, 2015 15:45:31 GMT
The clamps are really solid. I only have them loosely held on with 2 of the 6 bolts in the picture and they are not going anywhere. They are also used to attach shock mounts for steering stabilizers onto off road rigs. I went with these clamps from a seller on eBay. There are lots of other options available. Make sure you get ones for 1.75" tubes if you are going to mount to the main rails. I cut a 15 degree angle on the steel arm to get it more or less parallel to the front of the frame. The mounts angle down about 8 degrees and I thought about putting an end plate on them to make them look one of the wacky wings on the front of a F1 car.  |
|
