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Post by ian360 on Aug 3, 2015 10:54:19 GMT
This might be a blindingly obvious question to ask - so much so that is why I can't seem to find any references on the forum! But - now I am starting to put things back together and 'lost' the odd sheared and rounded bolt during strip down, is there a particular supplier or place I can buy new bolts? I was in a well known DIY store at the weekend and they didn't seem to have anything in suitable sizes?
Having never done it before not sure if there is a particular type / spec of bolt that should be used away from the obvious specialist ones needed.
Thanks
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Post by Toed64 on Aug 3, 2015 11:34:42 GMT
I mainly used stainless steel nuts and bolts from Screwfix. I used stainless steel washers and nyloc nuts wherever possible to avoid things rattling loose. They stock nice allen drive, dome headed bolts, that are IVA compliant wrt sharp edges.
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Post by lukiez on Aug 3, 2015 13:38:50 GMT
It depends on what you're bolting on, if its sundry stuff like brackets, panels etc. Then ordinary bolts are fine, as said use button head on the outside as they'll be safe for Iva.
The seats are more specific, they must be 8.8 grade or better and minimum of M8 in size.
For major components like suspension etc. use the original bolts or proper replacements. Standard bolts won't be up to the job
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Post by ian360 on Aug 25, 2015 11:37:41 GMT
Slowly starting to put things back together now - slowly as working through what is usable from the donor parts removed. The steering rack is now depowered and attached to the sub frame, the unused pipework bolts I sealed with JD Weld which I hope will do the job sufficiently. Turned attention to the suspension. These are the shocks that came off the donor - apart from an obvious bush replacement needed on the fronts, I am looking at them and thinking should they really go back on? Is it worth trying to clean these up or just get replacements? To my eye they look pretty knackered? The shopping list is growing by the day! |
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Post by lukiez on Aug 25, 2015 13:48:54 GMT
You're right they do look crusty however they may still have life left in them just bare in mind in case they only last 1000? miles for example.
Were they leaking fluids at all? Looks dry at the moment, if no leaks then check they still have any gas in them by compressing them (by hand), you should feel some resistance (this normal) until its fully compressed then release them - the gas will start to return the shaft to fully extended. Also listen out for any odd noises, it should all be smooth. If the shaft is floppy in either direction its probably gone
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 25, 2015 19:47:33 GMT
I would not waste my time or money or parts on them.. If you want a good OEM type shock I would go with the KYB-GR2
check eBay for them and new boots.. If just want to get car on the ground wheel off the big pieces with a wire brush and rattle can paint the shocks leave the bushing as is..Don't forget your safety glasses you only have 1 set of eyes..
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Post by Toed64 on Aug 26, 2015 7:56:18 GMT
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Post by ian360 on Aug 26, 2015 13:43:07 GMT
Thanks for the replies guys.
I am taking the view of trying to limit unnecessary expenditure on things I can improve at a later date, hopefully when everything up and running. That is the first goal of this project, upgrades and improvements can follow if and when......
So I cleaned the shocks up and they have no leaks and good compression with return. Going to paint them and job done. Waiting on first batch of purchases to arrive so I can complete the brakes, fit new discs and pads and hoses. Trouble is too many distractions to get things moving quickly.
Carfest this weekend but with bank holiday Monday coming I'm targeting getting the two ends of the power plant frame reunited. Fingers crossed! Need to get more focused as just sorted the deposit for the kit - no turning back now. |
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Post by mawdo81 on Aug 26, 2015 15:31:04 GMT
CarFest north was really good, take your camera and concentrate on the track!
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Post by gnc on Aug 30, 2015 7:13:42 GMT
Ian,
If you're looking for specific replacement bolts, the best source I could find was MX5 Parts, they have a stock of most major bolts ( infact even some of the more obscure ). Some of them aren't cheap but they are new genuine Mazda replacements.
Hope you find what you're looking for.
Garreth.
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Post by ian360 on Oct 5, 2015 8:48:46 GMT
Those distractions keep coming! Had a couple of weeks away on holiday so the month disappeared quite quickly. Have now managed to join engine to gearbox finally - small drama as one of the bolts sheared when torquing so had to undo everything and drill that out. So I now have a rolling frame again.  Question - gear shift lever, I seem to have too many parts? I replaced the lower boot as the old one had split badly. I have the following-  Can anyone advise if the two bushes are required - the lower bush and wave washer which sits below the pins are already in the turret, so all the items shown would be above those pins. There is the new lower boot, a cardboard gasket, wave washer, wave washer bush and then a further bush which I am not sure about? Also, is now the time to fit this and fill the turret with oil before the kit is assembled and fitted or should I leave it until later? |
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 6, 2015 6:47:02 GMT
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Post by ian360 on Dec 21, 2015 11:59:15 GMT
Bit of an update and some help please. Collected the kit from Stuart a few weeks ago, and have done the usual offer up to PPF to make sure it all lines up - in my case it did. Found some time to get the floor panels cut, but haven't riveted them on just yet. Didn't want to start drilling holes without knowing where the seats would fit, so back to MEV to order the GRP ones and collected last week. Next problem - fitted the runners from the donor seat and immediately have an issue with the slider contacting the bars on the seat. Picture explains more simply So the spring cant release and hold the seat in place. Obvious solution would be some spacers, but then looking at the runner itself I have another issue 
The rear end of the runner isn't flat, there is this angled part which cannot be straightened out, and I am sure should not be ground off level? So this stops the seat sitting level on the cross bars 
Camera angles might be misleading as actually all the bolt holes do line up with the cross bars, it is just the gap that concerns me and how many spacers / packing can be used without losing any integrity to strength?
Any advice appreciated Many thanks
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Post by miket on Dec 21, 2015 14:35:30 GMT
I've no experience of he grp seats, but for the angled ends I referenced other build threads and bent rail ends straight with mole grips.
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Post by ian360 on Dec 23, 2015 9:13:16 GMT
Miket - thanks reply. I had already straightened out the runners on three of the bolt holes using a vice, but held back on these angled ones as didn't think it was a good idea to rupture the side wall of the runner in doing so. I couldn't see any other threads using this type of runner, or maybe I am just over thinking this and it's fine to just 'crush' it flat? Any reasons anyone for not doing this? Also seems spacers solve the spring release issue.
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