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Post by greg on Jul 17, 2015 12:43:47 GMT
Coming to terms with missing events with the car has been a huge frustration point of mine as well. It sucks, but I'm sure it will all melt away once it's all done. Yeah I got my expectations a bit too high when I started the thing. Set myself up for disappointment. No ones fault but mine on that part. What's important is the car get done right and not cobbled together doing things half-a$$ed for the sake of getting it done quickly. |
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Post by einy on Jul 18, 2015 22:14:43 GMT
What's important is the car get done right and not cobbled together doing things half-a$$ed for the sake of getting it done quickly. Amen to that, brother ! Hang in ther Greg. You really are in the home stretch now! |
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Post by jgilbert on Jul 18, 2015 23:31:05 GMT
Greg, great build so far. Do it right and be proud for ever.
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Post by greg on Jul 22, 2015 1:06:45 GMT
Thanks for all the kind works guys! Did some fun social type stuff over the weekend and yesterday it was too hot so nothing got done with the car. Today was action day. Starting where I left off last week.  So I have been coming up with ways to raise the radiator more then it hit me to try modifying the nose so the whole thing sits back. The idea is to take away 3" from the bottom but then cut some of the sides away to make more room for the intercooler pipes.  This is how far forward the hood sat.  Decided to take away 3" because then I could put some good window dealing rubber trim along the bottom to bump it snugly against the radiator.   Made the cut with a jig saw. Plenty of room now.  I forgot to take pics of how I cut the mounts. They're just push style mounts. 6 total for the front. 4 on top and 2 on the sides. Basically I used a paint pen and all the mounts were visible.   Got about a 1.25" gap for the seal to the radiator. Haven't gotten the rubber yet but it's on order. Same with edge trim for the whole nose/hood section.  Upper nose mount. I need to shorten the push rod before I can mount it.  Bottom mount is snug up against the body. Decided to leave it as is. Might put some rubber on it to save on wear and hold it snug.  More on the next post. |
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Post by greg on Jul 22, 2015 1:22:04 GMT
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Post by greg on Jul 23, 2015 3:02:11 GMT
Got this guy done today.  The challenge was cutting a curved shaped onto another curved shape. Started off by making a pattern of the stock gauge cluster onto a sheet of paper, then cut it out, laid it over the cover, traced that, then finally cut it out. I used a hole saw to give me the nice radius in the corners and the jig saw to cut out the rest.    Unfortunately the edge trim I got for this is too small. Ordered more. Hope it gets here before the weeks end. For mounting to the column, it just attached at the bottom. I need larger spacers.  The stock flasher button looks great here!  Windshield barely clears the cover. Got a feeling it'll rattle at high speed. I anticipated this and got 2 more clamps. Not sure where I'm going to put them yet though.  As I was testing the rear lights, I found an oil leak from the rear diff. It wasn't there before... Just formed after the last drive with the insurance adjuster. Turns out, the leak is coming between the diff itself and the case. Very frustrating because I used the Right Stuff on a smooth/clean surface then it sat for months to dry before I even put oil in it. Will deal with this when I install the rear fender mounts. Do they make a gasket for the diff? After that, I uncovered more bad news. The brakes, parking, reverse and license plate lights work but the turns do not. The turn signal relay is different for a 99/2000 Miatas compared to the NA. I'm sure I got the correct relay for LED lights so I will have to double check the wiring. |
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Post by greg on Jul 23, 2015 21:13:44 GMT
Score. It was a bad flasher module. Tested all the wiring and it came back good. Swapped in the stock flasher module and the blinkers worked perfectly. Albite blinking fast.
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Post by jgilbert on Jul 23, 2015 22:00:52 GMT
Greg, good work lots of progress made. Bet you feel good!
Re the Flasher rate with LED indicators, Check out Trident's build he found a great way to reduce the flasher frequency by replacing just one resistor in the flasher unit. 15 minute job and only a couple of cents resistor from Radio Shack .
I used this method and it worked fine for me.
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Post by greg on Jul 24, 2015 16:41:58 GMT
I might try wiring that resister into the wire coming out of the flasher relay instead of tearing apart the relay and monkeying with it.
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Post by jgilbert on Jul 25, 2015 9:17:51 GMT
I might try wiring that resister into the wire coming out of the flasher relay instead of tearing apart the relay and monkeying with it. Greg, not sure that will work as I the resistor is actually within the flasher circuity. Page 16 of Trident's build is the page (you even commented after he posted). |
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Post by Exo81 on Jul 25, 2015 14:15:10 GMT
Popping open the flasher is simple. Super easy to swap out the resistor. Did this on mine and it works perfectly. Took about 15-20 minutes.
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Post by greg on Jul 26, 2015 19:07:16 GMT
Yep, just swapped it in. Easy and works great.  Went to the beach this weekend so that's all I got done. Work to resume tomorrow. |
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Post by jgilbert on Jul 27, 2015 20:58:15 GMT
Yep, just swapped it in. Easy and works great. Went to the beach this weekend so that's all I got done. Work to resume tomorrow. Indicators sorted = Beach, what a great life you have |
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Post by greg on Aug 1, 2015 0:05:52 GMT
Been traveling for work all week. Was a last minute rush job. Came back last night for a couple days. Heading back out Sunday again for another 5 days. Decided to get some work done on the car. The edge trim came in while I was away. I only ordered enough to do the front and the gauge cluster. Was so happy with the quality of it that I ordered enough to do every panel on the car.     You can see what I did with the large trim on the bottom to butt the bumper to the radiator. High quality rubber trim. Better than the stuff that comes with the kit.  Bought this flex hose for the fuel filler and its not flexible enough... More wasted $$...   |
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Post by greg on Aug 1, 2015 0:19:30 GMT
Mounted the fogs and turns today too. Came up with some interesting ways to mark everything so it's mirrored on both sides.   The fogs are tied together to this single 2 prong weather proof connector. I thought I ordered a set of 3 prong ones for the heads and turns but can't find them...  The turns are mounted where I was originally going to mount the headlights. Decided to just do what everyone else does and buy some motor cycle mounts to attach them to the tubes.    Then when I went to mount the headlights, this happened....  These weren't cheap ether.... That's all for today. |
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