Luke's Build in West Virginia (chassis #98)

[lhintze]

There is a bracket that attaches to the top of the other bracket that holds the top of the steering column. All together there are 3 brackets that get bolted together to hold the steering column and cluster. Check out the build guide here:

guides.exomotive.com/hc/en-us/articles/203421653-2014-Exocet-Bodywork-Mounting-Guide

[steadfast]

I've often wondered about this too, mine is unused. I would guess that it would be for a shoulder belt...

Jan 5, 2015 14:35:08 GMT lhintze said:

Quick question, what is this bracket for? (In the upper right corner)  I'm not sure what bolts to this.

[nigel]

Yes steadfast, I agree that is the mounting bracket for attaching a seat belt inertia reel.

Picture below Page 15, from the UK Exocet Build Guide, showing it fitted, to MEV's original demonstrator.



nigel

[lhintze]

Warren verified that it is for a 3 point system, they put them on all chassis so the rear bulkheads will all be the same also.

[greg]

Taken from the GRMS thread.

I am now allowed to talk about the new tunnel.

The notch is covered up by the aluminum transmission tunnel under normal applications, but for custom swaps, it may be useful for shifters mounted further to the rear (like a GTO T56). Just one of those things that doesn't hurt, but may be helpful to someone down the line.

It was decided that the new tunnel would be part of the standard kit due to the increase in safety and ergonomics. There are a couple tradeoffs, one being that the NB header flange needs to be moved by an exhaust shop (a quick job), and the stock NA catalytic converter will not fit. The easy solution is to simply convert to an NA exhaust if you buy an aftermarket header and exhaust. NA header/midpipe flanges should fit in most cases, but exhaust production variations may require a bit of grinding in some cases. Sorry about that complication, but the NB flange is right where many would want the front corner of many seats.





The update isn't just localized to the steel tunnel, all the aluminum panels have been redesigned to be a complete system. Riveting should be a little easier, and the center tunnel is now stressed. The "tabs" on the back of the aluminum tunnel should be bent upwards a little by the end user on final installation, be sure to put a couple sheets of paper between the aluminum cover and the steel tunnel to prevent scratches.

And lhintze, the tab on the back firewall is free for you to use for anything you see fit. It's a seatbelt reel mount to maintain compatibility for those who insist on three point belts. It's left in so we can use the same rear aluminum bulkheads on every car.

[linuxd00d]

Jan 5, 2015 16:22:40 GMT lhintze said:

There is a bracket that attaches to the top of the other bracket that holds the top of the steering column. All together there are 3 brackets that get bolted together to hold the steering column and cluster. Check out the build guide here:

guides.exomotive.com/hc/en-us/articles/203421653-2014-Exocet-Bodywork-Mounting-Guide

Hah, I had looked all over that guide EXCEPT the bodywork page, since I don't even have bodywork yet. Thanks
I gotta make sure I have that bracket. If I do, it's in one of the boxes with small parts. It didn't come zip tied to main exo frame like the square plate holding the steering column did.

[pincherrn]

Hi guys. Would the cluster brackets work on a RHD too. Would you send a set to UK and what would it cost. Or could a drawing be supplied to make my own. Loving the changes being made to the kit to make it easier to get a high quality finish. The interior panelling looks great. The tunnel and floor / bulkhead panels have been a nightmare on mine.

Nice work guys.

Colin

[steadfast]

The cluster bracket should work on the UK version. I'd shoot a message to Kevin or email Exomotive.

[lhintze]

I am going to have to get slim fans, I am hitting on the sway bar and still need to lower it another few inches. I am going to keep my NB radiator and mount it a little different, I will still use the mounts from Exomotive though.

Tonight I got the side panels installed and the last spacer installed to stiffen up the throttle pedal.

[steadfast]

Great progress, and it is looking great! Your garage is so clean! I'm fairly certain that once you get the slim fans, you will have to wire them together. The second fan (passenger side) won't turn on if I remember correctly.

[lhintze]

Thank you, the long wait has payed off. I will look into wiring them correctly, is there a reason the passenger side is different?

[einy]

IIRC, one fan is triggered by the ECU for engine cooling purposes, the other by the air conditioning being turned on. I recall seeing info on Miata.net about wiring the AC triggered fan for use in engine cooling ...

[ImprobableConstruct]

That looks so sweet! I ordered the mishimoto fan shroud kit from Amazon. Price was as good as anywhere and it was prime! I was not sure if I should order the NA kit for fitment or the NB model for the wiring but it looks like the wires need to be spliced either way so I went with the NA to match the NA radiator.

[lhintze]

I am going to try and modify the OEM fans to fit, it looks like it is only hitting on the sway bar, I will try to cut part of the fan support out. If not, I will get the Mishimoto fan shroud kit. I have an idea of a way to get the radiator mounted to the supplied brackets, just need to do it now. I will look at wiring them together when I start with the wiring harness.

[einy]

Seems like there are multiple 'opinions' out there on Miata.net and others on how best to wire the fans to work at the same time for engine cooling. Simplest is the wire the black/blue wire that supplies power to the AC fan to the yellow wire that supplied (ECU controlled) power to the normal engine cooling fan. "Risk" in that method is a higher current draw vs. what the engine cooling fan is designed to deal with (now running two fans instead of one). Alternative suggestion (that makes sense to me) is to use the power leads that normally go to the engine cooling fan as the signal to a new (adequately rated) relay, and the output from that relay to now power both fans. If you have a pre OBD-II car (which is what I have), you can test the fans coming on by running a jumper between the "GND" and "TFA" terminals in the diagnostic connector. I don't know how to test on an OBD-II equipped car, sorry to say.