|
|
Post by JIDiesel on Nov 28, 2014 4:36:37 GMT
No, I am using an aftermarket one. I thought I would need it to cancel the turn signals and keep the horn wires from twisting up. Is it not necessary? You need the clock spring for the horn. The white spindle in the center is for the turn signal. Depending on the hub adapter you are using you may not have access for the horn in the aftermarket wheel. The NRG quick release hub has the option for the horn pass through. This works with most steering wheels. www.getnrg.com/products/quick-release-kits/quick-release-kit-gen-2.0/feedand the hub lock is not a bad idea either. www.getnrg.com/products/quick-lock/feedI had to modify the clock spring to allow the NRG hub adapter to fit. I then made my own contact wire inside the clock spring housing for the adapter hub to function with the horn. The horn even works with the quick disconnect hub. If you want I will post some photos of how I made it work. |
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Nov 28, 2014 13:07:03 GMT
I've actually been looking at the same QR (gen 2) and the Miata short hub from them as well. How do you lik it so far? Pictures would be awesome, thank you!
|
|
|
|
Post by JIDiesel on Nov 28, 2014 15:33:15 GMT
I have had the hub and wheel installed in my donor car for 6 months before I started my build. It works great nice and tight no slop or play in the disconnect. The disconnect is also indexed so you can press it together at any location and spin the wheel till it self aligns.  Here it is with the clock spring housing.  I disassembled the clock spring housing and modified the housing with a dremel tool. I also made a contact out of some wire, (large paperclip) inserted into the contact pin from the clock spring socket.  I didn't remove the other stalk. I plan on using the cruise control and the window wiper feature I plan on using for my set of dual beam fog lights. Make sure to install the NRG hub adapter offset 90 degrees . The alignment holes in the back are opposite to the Mazda pins. This will cause the turn signal cancel to not work unless you turn a full turn. Hope this helps, John |
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Nov 29, 2014 12:31:08 GMT
Thanks for the pics John!
|
|
|
|
Post by linuxd00d on Nov 30, 2014 4:22:31 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Nov 30, 2014 7:34:46 GMT
1999 plus only have one fuel line..
|
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Nov 30, 2014 12:15:26 GMT
There are 2 short fuel lines that attach to the tank and T together with a fuel filter.  Anyone one know if I can get rid of some of the other lines on the tank? |
|
|
|
Post by snowbird1 on Nov 30, 2014 16:20:16 GMT
The other lines are for the tank vent system, the idea is to prevent raw hydrocarbon fumes venting directly to atmosphere, they are trapped in the carbon canister them purged and added to the engine fueling when it goes to closed loop. It looks complicated but it has to prevent liquid fuel getting into the system. Depending on your states smog rules you can probably do away with it and fit a vented gas cap. I like to keep it, like the PCV the system had been around since the '60s and is effective for cutting smog in areas where cars sit in the sun, the practical advantage is it stops your garage smelling of gas!
|
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Dec 22, 2014 21:50:18 GMT
This should be a good week, Kevin said my chassis will most likely be ready after Christmas (#98). I plan to drive down Friday and pick it up if it is ready, it will be about 620 miles one way. After the last few chassis that got damaged, I do not mind driving down. I got a bit of work done today, I got my header, lug nuts, and FM little big brake kit in the mail today. Everything went together perfectly, I am waiting on a few small parts for the e brakes that are back ordered. Next post from me should have my chassis in it!!    |
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Dec 22, 2014 21:50:43 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by JIDiesel on Dec 22, 2014 21:56:10 GMT
Looking good. Can't wait to see the roller.
I picked up my frame from Exomotive over the summer. There is a U-haul dealer near the shop if you are planning on renting a trailer vs dragging one down from home. The frame and all the pieces fits very well in the 6x12 enclosed.
Have a safe trip picking up your frame.
|
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Dec 22, 2014 22:04:07 GMT
I plan to take my dad's Titan down, should easily fit in the back. Thanks for the help though, what additional parts will be included? Firewalls, tranny tunnel, etc?
|
|
|
|
Post by JIDiesel on Dec 22, 2014 23:12:28 GMT
I plan to take my dad's Titan down, should easily fit in the back. Thanks for the help though, what additional parts will be included? Firewalls, tranny tunnel, etc? When I picked my frame up without the body panels. There was the aluminum floor, bulkheads, trans-tunnel, plexi-glass sides, small box of bolts and rivets. I have a long bed dodge 2500. I didn't trust that it would fit safely. I would consider the u-haul for a one way. My rental was just under 200.00 for the 6x12 trailer. The additional insurance covering $20,000.00 was an extra $100.00. for me it was worth the investment. |
|
|
|
Post by lhintze on Dec 22, 2014 23:34:10 GMT
I'm going to strap it down good and take it easy, the small parts should fit in the cab easily. I won't have the AL floors since I went with the welded in steel ones.
I don't think they are caught up with the body panels yet, so I won't be taking them with me.
|
|
|
|
Post by steadfast on Dec 22, 2014 23:34:22 GMT
Your brake kit. . .  |
|
