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Post by paulh on Mar 20, 2014 15:56:30 GMT
Same pump as my 2007 model. I also used a purpose made swirl pot to house the r1 pump, mounted down between the tank and the engine, and a standard low pressure pump to keep the swirl pot supplied. There is no fuel return so the pump needs to supply the correct pressure. There are pictures of my swirl pot in my dropbox folder, the link to that is in the show us your tr1kes thread.
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Post by mattyboy on Mar 20, 2014 17:32:46 GMT
Most helpful so I have established that I need to keep my pump.... Thanks. Paul as I remember you are in Brizzle, near my parents. Did you use someone local to fab this Swirl Pot up? If so who please? Is the Low pressure Pump from an R1 too? Maybe I could buy a swirl pot and modify it. Do you think this might be possible? Parts are selling well I can't keep up with ebay.  Most the body work and lights has gone now, already. |
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Mar 20, 2014 18:22:43 GMT
Evening Matt, I like the way Paul has tucked his away down near the fuel tanks. Very neat. I had just planned to fit mine above the engine so all the connections remained the same. I bought some 120mm dia/3mm wall tube and a piece of 10mm plate (little bit extra for the hand brake caliper holder) from ebay. Along with some AN6 fixings and gave them to a bloke I know who does TIG.
Don't know about modifying an 'off the shelf' swirl pot. Suppose it's possible but I wanted the 10mm as the base so I had something to screw the pump and seal plate to. |
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Post by paulh on Mar 21, 2014 10:46:19 GMT
Hi Matt, I did get someone local to make up the swirl pot but it is a very simple design so you could get it welded up at any engineering shop.It was made with 1.5mm aluminium with a 4mm top and base.It took a bit of fiddling to get the pump bolted into the bottom and sealed, so I would reccomend a thicker plate for the base.I think it cost me about £30 to get the weding done and probably £10ish in materials. Ready made swirl pots seem to be about £100 and the wrong size and shape. The low pressure fuel pump is a facet posiflow from Merlin motorsport at Castle Coombe (product code 60106). This pump was only fitted a few weeks ago as the original facet pump was very noisy
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Post by mattyboy on Mar 21, 2014 10:50:23 GMT
Ah!!! Cheers Paul. Would it be cheeky to ask if you have any drawings of your design? Thanks again.
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Post by paulh on Mar 21, 2014 11:08:28 GMT
never had any drawings Matt. It was literally a disc for the top and bottom with a sheet wrapped round and welded. The size was governed by the size of the R1 fuel pump and probably 2 litres of fuel. I think there are a couple of pics of it in dropbox. check the link in show us your tr1kes thread
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Post by mattyboy on Mar 23, 2014 20:59:35 GMT
Managed to lift the bike onto a plastic crate today. I thought I would start removing the swing arm, but I have spent the entire afternoon trying to remove the small sprocket nut... It is like it is welded on!!! I have given up with the ratchet and bar as my back really, really aches. I think I am going to buy a Clarke CEW1000 240v impact gun, I just have a feeling that someone has used thread lock on this before. These impact guns seem to get good reviews on amazon. |
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Mar 25, 2014 7:32:07 GMT
Morning Matt, for the obvious reasons, the sprocket will be attached well with the retaining washer and probably a lot of loctite. I was lucky and had a cordless impact drill but the R1 forums are full of tips to get the job done. Good luck.
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Post by mattyboy on Mar 25, 2014 21:03:18 GMT
Morning Matt, for the obvious reasons, the sprocket will be attached well with the retaining washer and probably a lot of loctite. I was lucky and had a cordless impact drill but the R1 forums are full of tips to get the job done. Good luck. Hi Rick I have tried all sorts I even broke a thick hammer handle that was locking the wheel via the swing arm. I can lift the rear of the bike with my long torque wrench but the nut won't move. And I did flatten the washer tabs too.
Next attack will involve the following. I am going to lock the chain by using cable ties that pass through the top run of chain and then directly below through the bottom run of chain. I have never tried this before so I don't know if it will work, the chain is still wrapped around the rear sprocket though so in my head it should stop the sprocket from spinning. If this works it means less risk of damage to wheel or swing arm. If cable ties are too weak a long bolt with nut or steel rod bent over at the ends through the top of the chain and then through the bottom should work. I am going to replace the chain anyway so I am not worried about damaging it.
The impact wrench is on order and due on Friday so hopefully on Sat I can have go at it. As I have removed my rear brake I can't use this to lock the wheel. I don't want to use the gearbox for this and I am hoping the method above works. The nut is being soaked in WD40 every night too. I will let you know how I get on.
Cheers.
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Post by RPA on Mar 25, 2014 21:49:25 GMT
Hi Matt,
Have you tried heating the nut or it's surround with a hot air gun, that could help by slightly expanding the surround to loose the nut?
Bob
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Post by mattyboy on Mar 26, 2014 6:29:26 GMT
Hi Matt, Have you tried heating the nut or it's surround with a hot air gun, that could help by slightly expanding the surround to loose the nut? Bob Hi Bob . I didn't want to use heat as I know there is residue in the fuel line which is close by. I guess a hot air gun is the safest option for heat but does it get hot enough to have an impact? Thanks |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2014 10:21:47 GMT
Kevin made a tool that goes onto an Impact gun, you should find a decent impact gun will remove it. But if it is still on and as tight as my Stator was, then it's going to be a bad day :-(
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Post by slugshot on Mar 26, 2014 10:51:44 GMT
Wait until you have the impact gun, it should come off easy if you put it in gear.
No special tool, just a good impact socket
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Post by RPA on Mar 26, 2014 19:11:33 GMT
Matt,
The hot air gun should give you enough heat as you can get it close to the nut and the heat should stay away from any fuel lines. If you have one of those flexible heat shields, used for plumbing joints, then you could use that to protect the fuel lines.
Bob |
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Post by mattyboy on Mar 28, 2014 20:20:47 GMT
Impact Wrench has arrived. I have family commitments this weekend all weekend but I am hoping to find 5 mins to have a go..... I am guessing If it works it should be fairly quick. Fingers crossed.
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Most the body work and lights has gone now, already. 
