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Post by miket on Jul 26, 2016 16:21:41 GMT
... like it ... ordered some - thanks.
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Post by miket on Jul 29, 2016 11:39:11 GMT
So it took a couple of layers of heat-shrink (60mm diam) with a tough thick tape under each of the layers to get what looks to be radiused enough:- 'scuse my crusty donor. A slightly smaller diameter 'shrink might have been a better choice. I plan to ask a friend to mock-MOT the Exo before its IVA so I don't plan to do more of these 'til I'm sure the bushes won't need to come out. After several sessions faffing about with radii I felt like doing something more, er, do-ey, so started to ready the wings for fitting. Knocked up a swift template for the IVA regs:- and concluded that the key things were to meet the regs and provide as much cover rearward as poss. This translated as putting the front stay thru as far forward as possible whilst still getting the stay to sit on the flat plane for the full width:- Plan is to pilot drill from the inside and widen out from the outside plus a spot of filing to oval it out. then I should be able to get a good sighting for the rear stay's hole. The stays will be a bit different at each corner but I'm hoping this approach will give me consistency.
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Post by bignik on Jul 29, 2016 12:39:21 GMT
If you leave it 10mm overhanging the washer at the front, when you heat it and it shrinks you get a very nice radius to it.
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Post by bignik on Jul 29, 2016 12:39:43 GMT
I'll get a pic of mine later so you can see what I mean
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Post by bignik on Jul 29, 2016 15:37:04 GMT
think i may have used two layers of it then heated with hot air gun
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Post by miket on Jul 30, 2016 8:49:20 GMT
.. yes that's a nicer finish - thanks - I'll go that route when I finally do them.
I see you opted to fasten some mesh around the engine bay with cable-ties - did that IVA ok or was there more to it?
I could also do with an approach for the track rods that doesn't involve undoing them to slide something over them - I don't know whether tape on its own would be sufficient.
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Post by bignik on Jul 31, 2016 6:44:43 GMT
I put the mesh on there as a fail safe for the IVA more than anything and it looks quite good as well. Regarding the track rod ends, i used heat shrink here as well when i was putting it all back together, i wasn't planning to but i did end up having the wheel alignment done for about £30 when the build was almost finished and i have to say it was well worth it.
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Post by Shane on Jul 31, 2016 10:37:52 GMT
Im going to try amalgamating tape for the rod ends, cant see it being a problem and much easier (not as neat though)
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Post by miket on Aug 3, 2016 21:29:01 GMT
... I understand the rod end locknuts need to be exposed for IVA and then re-covered to pass - so something easily slid aside like the scooter fork boots or micc cable gland shrouds sound favourite - if I find a way to make them work well after splitting them!
Got the rear wings/fenders drilled/filed today - hopefully fronts tomorrow. Today's learning point that's blindingly obvious with brains, experience or the more readily available hindsight - if the stay arms aren't parallel then the holes end up having to be over-sized.
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Post by miket on Aug 4, 2016 16:41:30 GMT
Good day in the office - I now have a fine four fendered fiend:- And in my quest for an IVA friendly track rod/nut cover that I can take on and off without too much hassle - I turned to my old trusty moulded-drainpipe approach. Clips on and off and can be further secured with a bolt. Just need to tart up its chamfered edges a bit and clone its brother as much like a twin as poss.
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Post by miket on Aug 15, 2016 17:22:27 GMT
Still making and sticking on bits of rubber, knock on trim, nut caps... Some of the edges of the antiroll bar droplink ends at the front and rear of the Exo are contactable with the 100mm ball and don't entirely fall within the exempt "volume enclosed by suspension components", but I've not heard of these edges cropping up for the IVA. I.e. the edges of the droplinks' steel rings surrounding the bushes:- Anyone know if they definitely do or don't need 'rounding'? with yet more trim?
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Post by jgilbert on Aug 17, 2016 8:06:04 GMT
Think your fine on the drop link ends. Nut cover is the important part. Re track rods. I used the sheath from an armoured cable gland kit. just snip off the end of the sheath so its a interference fit on the track rod. It will then stay in place but also be removable.
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Post by timbo on Aug 17, 2016 11:13:10 GMT
Mike Quick question: On the MEV supplied rear lights there is a red wire and a green/red wire. Have you worked out which is the side light and which is the brake light? Trying to save myself the effort of dragging the whole tub out to the garage to experiment. Cheers Tim
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Post by miket on Aug 18, 2016 7:01:44 GMT
timbo - sorry 'bout the delay - been away a couple of days. I haven't done rear lights yet but I might have made a note of the wires - I'll have a look today. You're referring to the ones that fit in to tubes right? (as opposed to some more recent type)
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Post by miket on Aug 18, 2016 9:15:37 GMT
timbo - no 'fraid I haven't found out yet. Perhaps the first of us to find out can flag it up. I believe they'll need an earth wire adding to the lights too - I'll probably solder a wire on to the bulb mount.
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