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Post by kecclest on Feb 4, 2014 16:41:30 GMT
After disconnecting everything, I managed to lift the body off by myself in about 5 minutes using an engine hoist. Landing the body on the jack stands by myself was a more difficult feat.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 4, 2014 19:24:54 GMT
Good deal.. Brace it good before going under to pull the other items off.. Don't forget to cut the VIN off the firewall (behind were coil was)..Time to pressure clean it all before strip down makes it easier..
Emer. and parking brakes same thing..
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Post by Stewart on Feb 4, 2014 22:30:36 GMT
The handbrake cables are bolted to the chassis as well behind the seats. get your head under there (while supported) and you'll see where to unbolt them from.
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Post by donboy1983 on Feb 9, 2014 20:31:11 GMT
Well today was the day of removing the body, all went to plan and we managed to get the body off and propped up, removed the fuel tank and also the handbrake cables. Do I need to be keeping any of the brake pipes or fuel lines or will all this be replaced? I think all I need to do now is chop the VIN out then the body can go to the scrappy.
im on a bit of a hold from now as I can't strip down the PPF until we move to our new unit in a couple of weeks! I want to keep it as a rolling chassis to make getting it there a little easier. I also started to remove some of the wiring around the engine as I plan to strip it down and paint it all. I am struggling to remove the four plugs that I think go to the injectors on the same loom as the coil packs. Any one got any tips as I don't want to break them?    |
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 9, 2014 20:52:56 GMT
The connectors for the injectors are wire clip pop each side open just a little to release it and pull it off. pick or very small screwdriver blade.. I would pull the fuel and brake tubes they are held on with good clips that you might want to reuse.. Mark the center tube on the fuel pump unit as the out to the injectors.. Looks like your CAS on rear of head is leaking oil.. There is an "O" ring that seals it.. Mark/scribe the CAS to the head before pulling it off so you can install it in the same place so timing will be close..Reset timing when up and running.. CAS will only go in one way has offset drive but will turn some once installed.. If you have drains in the floor were you are now is the time to pressure clean the rolling unit.. If not stop and do it before you get to new place.. Then brush and spray rust spray on all rusty threads. Clean the slide collar on the PPF to diff front bolt as it has to move down about 3/4" after bolt is removed to release PPF from diff case.
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Post by jgilbert on Feb 9, 2014 23:23:56 GMT
I made the mistake of junking the metal hydraulic pipe that runs from the slave cylinder the the flexible rubber pipe. Thought I could replace the lot but struggling to get a fitting to connect to the save cylinder. Good progress.
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Post by Stewart on Feb 11, 2014 7:19:48 GMT
We can supply clutch replacement hoses if you're interested. £22.50 and they get rid of the flexi and hard pipe.
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Post by mattapo on Feb 11, 2014 17:59:43 GMT
Just to jump back on you, the sensor you found is a microwave sensor, quite common in mx5's so you can leave the top down and set the alarm, anyone leans over and it goes off. Not that good in an exocet as the bubble pokes out throughout the sides and picks people up walking past, I have on in mine set to the smallest bubble above the drivers foot well, I put my helmet there, anyone goes for the helmet the 130DB siren is right in there face to.  |
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Post by donboy1983 on Apr 30, 2014 20:56:54 GMT
Well after over 2 months of not setting foot in the workshop I finally made it back in Tonight :-) just moved house and had to renovate from top to bottom but thankfully it's nearly done. i had to move the car to a new workshop that's a bit smaller but still plenty of room to work. I have started to disassemble the PPF tonight and hit a few problems, problem 1: how to I get the alloy backbone off the diff? I removed the to big bolts but it looks like a collar is holding it in still. problem 2: how do I remove the drive shafts from the diff? And separate the rear hubs?   |
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Post by gwnwar on May 1, 2014 5:47:52 GMT
Soak the hell out of it.. then do below.. as for axles they pop out of the diff with long screwdriver..
hope you loosened the rear axle nuts.. axle needs to be pressed out of hub..
There is a sleeve inside the front bolt hole in the block.. with front bolt out get and turn a M14x1.5 bolt (long) into the sleeve from the bottom.(there are threads in the sleeve) Twist and pull the sleeve down (hammer and punch sometimes needed). after it is down and free install a bolt M6x1 into the hole in the side of the block/spacer to hold the sleeve in place so you can remove/turn out the long bolt M14x1.5.. After long bolt removed remove the small bolt you put in block to hold sleeve.. When you reinstall the front bolt it will push the sleeve back up in the block and center it..
DO NOT remove the block/spacer or the top round nuts.. You might want to spray a good penatrating oil up the bolt hole and let it sit while.. Front and rear PPF bolts torque to 77>91 ft lbs. Hope this helps
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Post by jwagner on May 1, 2014 15:34:14 GMT
I don't think the later cars have threaded sleeves which makes things tougher. We took a big crowbar and gently pried the bottom of the PPF away from the diff until it cleared the diff and it just popped free.
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Post by donboy1983 on May 1, 2014 19:09:31 GMT
Did that not bent the backbone?
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Post by jwagner on May 2, 2014 0:50:45 GMT
Did that not bent the backbone? Didn't seem to, it popped right back. Somebody asked a similar question on miata.net (this wasn't an original idea on my part) and the response was something like "we do it all the time, no problem". The PPF is more flexible than you'd figure. When we did it, we jacked up the left (I think) side of the car to offset the twist a bit. Put the big crowbar in from the back at the bottom of the PPF on the other side and pried a bit and it just popped off. |
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Post by donboy1983 on May 6, 2014 20:55:32 GMT
Well I got back at the car and all went well, I think  i managed to get the alloy PPF backbone off but I'm worried that if broke it, I'm sure I seen somewhere that you must not remove the 2 round captive nuts from the rear of the PPF. I managed to pry the PPF off the Diff but when it popped off the 2 round dome like nuts fell out the PPF.   i also can't work out how to get the rear axels/drive shafts come out of the diff. Should it come apart from the section under the rubber boot with all the grease or at the end close to the diff body?  I gave up with the diff and moved on to striping away the rest of the rear sub frame and also removed the rear calipers and discs. what I was left with.  |
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Post by hunchfront on May 6, 2014 21:07:07 GMT
the shaft is held in with a metal spring clip
put a fat prybar or chisel between the diff & shaft, give it a tap with a hammer & the shaft will pop out
i wouldn't worry about the top captives popping out, they fit back in no problem
it's by far the easiest way to take them out when removing a PPF from the diff
i see you still have the 'cast' metal spacer stuck on the lower washer om the PPF
did you undo the bolt or did it break when you pulled the PPF off the diff?
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