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Post by davef on Jun 9, 2015 20:19:17 GMT
Hi Andy I intend to be on the Scotland trip. Just need to have a couple of runs to make sure she's ok
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Post by BobN on Jun 10, 2015 13:15:09 GMT
Excellent Dave. Post a Pic of the car...
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Post by Raj'sDad on Jun 10, 2015 14:30:33 GMT
Congrats Dave - finally! Well done.
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Post by freshp5 on Jun 11, 2015 19:08:27 GMT
Well done dave
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Post by davef on Jun 14, 2015 19:21:01 GMT
Well today was mixed type of day. Real enjoyment this morning the sun was shining and I took the Sonic out for its first run out on the roads. Drove fantastic and really quick, thoroughly enjoyed it. Took it home and checked it over, found a couple minor issues (grease from the drive shaft gaiter escaping, new cable ties and problem sorted)
Went out for a longer run and doing a steady 60 on the A5, when I saw something flash out of the corner of my eye, heard a noise and lost control of the steering. SmileyD05Managed to pull over without hitting anything and found the nut on the nearside bottom ball joint was missing, the lower suspension arm had dropped and hit the inside of the wheel.
Recovered the car home and investigated the damage. It would appear I need a new ball joint nut (unknown thread nut not a metric) so may have to buy a new ball joint. New top hat that fits inside the upright required from Rally Design and the wheel could be repaired, but deep gouges in the inside means I will probably buy a new wheel.
Still we walked away from a potentially disastrous incident.
I checked the threads and there is no sign of Threadlock so I obviously missed it on that thread. I checked the other side and there is evidence of it on the threads.
I thought about drilling and wire locking the nut on the threads but the threaded part of the bottom ball joint only just comes flush with the top of the nuts. Could anyone confirm that theirs is the same? The top ball joints the thread comes through a couple of threads, not enough to drill and wire lock but it does come through but not on the bottom.
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Post by airforceone on Jun 14, 2015 19:57:20 GMT
The ball joints are relatively cheap at about £10 each from rally design. Check their website it might actually state the thread Suze but after the nut coming off you don't know what damage has been done to the ball joint itself so I would just replace it to be safe.
The nut is a nylock one so even if there is only a couple of threads poking out it should be fine with thread lock or a shake proof washer.
Maybe a good idea to periodically check all essential nuts and bolts prior to a run out. I always check at least the steering column connections on a monthly basis when the car is on the road.
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Post by BobN on Jun 14, 2015 20:05:44 GMT
Dave you could easily fix that before Scotland trip.
Bob
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Post by andybaird on Jun 14, 2015 20:45:29 GMT
HI Dave
Sorry to hear about you problem with your car. I'm glad that you are not hurt. Hope you can still make the Scotland trip.
Andy
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 14, 2015 21:59:00 GMT
I checked the threads and there is no sign of Threadlock so I obviously missed it on that thread. I checked the other side and there is evidence of it on the threads.
I thought about drilling and wire locking the nut on the threads but the threaded part of the bottom ball joint only just comes flush with the top of the nuts. Could anyone confirm that theirs is the same? The top ball joints the thread comes through a couple of threads, not enough to drill and wire lock but it does come through but not on the bottom. Threadlock should not be required in this type of assembly. Firstly you should have a minimum of two threads protruding through all nylock nuts, if this was not the case I am surprised the examiner did not look for this and mark it a fail, too busy checking radii on panels I guess. However in addition to having two threads protruding the nuts need to be tightened to the correct torque, did you use a torque wrench? Also how many times did you use that nylock? They should be replaced with new if taken off even once in the case of a critical fastening such as this. I am sorry to hear about this but it should not happen on a car fresh from inspection.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jun 17, 2015 15:28:18 GMT
This has got me thinking, and it may be best for a Moderator to separate this out to a new thread (or append the existing bolts spec one) but is it therefore the grade of the joining piece that is used that determines the torque required, along with any lubrication or thread lock used?
So is it the grade of the stud/bolt that is used, regardless of the grade of the nut/fastening material? Thanks
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Post by BobN on Jun 18, 2015 9:51:58 GMT
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Post by Johnsto on Jun 27, 2015 15:38:26 GMT
Glad to see your Sonic back on the road Dave. Thanks for letting me up to have a peek at your pride n joy. Added bonus of being taken for spin Top man!
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Post by BobN on Jun 27, 2015 19:55:26 GMT
I get confused with so many Dave's. I think DaveFs new name should be 1BoltDave as that's all he had to put in his car for the Scotland trip but was too lazy and Dave with the Mevster should be CrazyDave after his donut stunts in Scotland.
Bob
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 27, 2015 22:08:40 GMT
The rumour I heard was that 1BoltDave's problem was not replacing the bolt but the time required to clean his undies.
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Post by andybaird on Jun 28, 2015 13:43:43 GMT
We have not heard much from 1BoltDave after the Scotland Road Trip. He must be cleaning a weekends worth of undies as he was traveling with CrazyDave. LOL
Andy
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