Thanks Venom, that helps mate. Cheers Paul that gives me some idea of what to do, I've still got a bit more room to cut back which will help, I will have a crack at that tomoz, Looking at my harness I'm noticing sections where there's a connecting block the colour of the wires change, is this normal or should they be the same all the way through?? My wiring diagram show different colour wire's which stumps me a little also? I'm still deciding whether to mount the electrics under the bonnet or behind seat neatly, what did you do with yours, any advice would be good. Many thanks, Will
I think wherever you mount the electrics its a lot of wire to extend. Personaly I prefer to have the ecu under the bonnet as its the most protected from the weather. The column is normally ford focus, but being ford the wiring is probably the same on most models, and i`m sure the internet must have a ford wiring diagram somewhere !
That's good then the wires change, thought they were different harnesses! Yeh my steering column is late Ford sierra I forgot yours are focus. Tonight made a couple of brackets for the radiator, will fit that tomoz then start brakes I think? I'll put some more pics up tomorrow.
Erik what did you do by the way with your stand sensor along with the cut out switch that's on the harness, any ideas ?? Many thanks, Will
I don't have a stand sensor in mine unless you mean the side stand switch. I bypassed this switch and used the switch on my handbrake along with a beeper for acoustic warning signal. This wire has been routed along my steering column lock as well for acoustic warning.
I did use the original R1 steering switches and the cut out switch is still functional. I didn't route this to my steering column key switch.
I have everything at the rear between the bulkhead and the left fuel tank. Its been thoroughly tested in monsoon type weather and so far so good.
I also have my wiring at the rear behind my passenger seat in a box, all tested in the worst weather last year and this at Carfest, I extended my feed of wiring forward one wire at a time, and tested everything each and every cut and make. There is no way I would have cut them all and then attempted to re-make the connections at the oter end, I know this would have caused me a huge headache ;-)
Hi Guys, Having the injected model the fuel pump is built in the tank itself, does this mean the fuel pumps the earlier bikes have is the alternative?
On the fuel tanks on the tr1ke is it right the 2 bottom outlets join then tee off to the carbs? What about the 2 top outlets? Sorry for being a dumb arse, just don't want to do it twice! I've posted a couple of pics, bean very busy not much done, there's a pic of the bike stand switch etc, any ideas what to do with these? Many thanks, Will
Yeah the two inner facing outlets join a T piece. the top outlets are breathers. I recommend using a length of supple silicone pipe, and running it towards the firewall and then fitting either 2 x 1 way valves, or maybe doing a similar T pice arrangement to 1 x 1 way valve. I seem to think just shorting the side stand switch did the trick, but I might be wrong fella.
Hi Will you need a high pressure pump and a pressure regulator, unless your pump only makes the right amount of pressure. 48 psi ( I think )if you have a pump with hiher pressure you will need a fuel return and regulator. Thats why I went for the standard pump mounted in a purpose made swirl pot.
Thanks Paul, looking at the injected system I've noticed a return l was going to link this with a 1 way valve from the vents of the fuel tanks ( is that right?) Anyway you say a swirl tank Paul, is there any place l can get info from and where to purchase? which ones the better option, price wise mate, high press Pump + regulator or swirl tank etc. Cheers Paul
I would think if you have a fuel return, there would also be a regulator. In which case you will just need a pump with high enough pressure and flow rate. Sounds like yours is different to mine as I had no fuel return. the system on mine relies on the pump maintaining the correct pressure, thats why I had a swirl pot made to house the original pump.Its nothing fancy, just an aluminium potabout 150mm diametre 200mm high with the r1 pump in the bottom. its mounted behind the bulkhead and a low pressure pump keeps it filled with fuel.Sounds like you may not need any of that, but worth checking with someone who has used the same model r1.