trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Nov 26, 2014 8:50:20 GMT
Looking for some conformation before I cut a wire….. I'm looking at adding a starter button…… now is it the blue and black wire that I need to cut on the ignition and connect to the switch or am I wrong and it's one of the others..? Yep, blue/black wire switched to batt+ will crank engine. Note the starter solenoid is energized directly i.e. no relay, make sure the switch and wires are rated for the solenoid current (sorry don't know what that is without checking but must be at least 30amps). Cheers Snowbird1 So I'm half way there with the blue black wire but I was thinking about it last night. Will I also need to connect another wire from the ignition? or will I just need to cut the blue black wire extend it and have the wire from the ignition to the input and the one to the starter to the output ? As you can see the switch is a 50amp push switch. Thanks for your help.
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Post by mawdo81 on Nov 26, 2014 10:57:07 GMT
The ignition starter on the barrel normally cuts power to lights etc to reduce the load on the battery whilst the starter is making such a draw. Are you going to handle that?
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 26, 2014 16:09:59 GMT
Are you doing away with the key switch completely? Do you need any of the circuits on the acc/cigar fuse, key position #1 black/white wire? Also the black/red wire is powered in key position #2 - that powers wipers, heater/AC and windows, will you use any of those circuits? If not switching white (batt+) wire to blue wires(s) will power all the circuits you need to start/run.
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trident
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Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Nov 26, 2014 18:19:44 GMT
I am keeping the key switch as I need a steering lock to be able to pass the iva test in Uk. The plan was to just use key to turn on to position two and disengage the steering lock, then use the starter button for starting instead of the final turn of the key to start.
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trident
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Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Nov 26, 2014 20:49:11 GMT
I am keeping the key switch as I need a steering lock to be able to pass the iva test in Uk. The plan was to just use key to turn on to position two and disengage the steering lock, then use the starter button for starting instead of the final turn of the key to start. Ok I think I have worked it out but please ….. someone correct me if I'm wrong or confirm if I'm correct…. The white wire is a constant 12v feed. If I tap into this and run a wire to the start button input connector (connection 2 on the switch) and then cut the blue black wire which is the starter wire and connect this to connector 1 on the switch, then when I press the start button the engine should start. + add an earth wire from the switch ( connection 3 ) to the chassis.
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Post by biggunz on Nov 27, 2014 9:54:54 GMT
What is the ground for? Is there some sort of LED on the switch? The rest of what you said seems right.
Shaun
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 27, 2014 15:42:47 GMT
Interesting that the IVA requires a steering lock, I have a new 2013 Mazda 3 with keyless starting and it has no steering lock. What happens if you are using a pre 1970 donor without a steering lock (or a Saab with a gearshift lock)?
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Post by nitram on Nov 27, 2014 16:29:18 GMT
From the manual:
1. A vehicle MUST be fitted with either a mechanical anti – theft device or an electronic immobiliser
2. If fitted to the Vehicle, an anti – theft device
a. must be operational
b. must not operate on any part of the braking system
3. If it incorporates a mechanical part that acts upon a system used to control the vehicle
a. It must Deactivate before the engine can be started
b. It must be deactivated while the engine is running
c. It must have a actuation which is a distinct and separate function from that of stopping the engine
Where the vehicle has no mechanical anti - theft device fitted:
4. An electronic immobiliser must be fitted.
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trident
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Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Nov 27, 2014 18:46:21 GMT
Sorted the start button. Shaun - yes the switch lights up when pressed. See video below Snowbird1 - Good point and having read Nitram's post ( Thanks Nitram ) I obviously didn't read the manual 100% as because I have an immobiliser I don't need the steering lock.. however I will keep it so I have two layers of security in order to stop any one that might want an Exocet without the need to build or pay for one. I've also re fitted the electric And the front side panels of the centre console In order to keep water out from the top of the electrics under the bonnet I added some foam to create a water tight seal.
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Post by jgilbert on Nov 27, 2014 21:57:41 GMT
Trident,
Looks good, are thoughs switch safety covers IVA compliant? I was looking at some but wondered if they would pass?
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trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Nov 27, 2014 23:01:24 GMT
Trident, Looks good, are thoughs switch safety covers IVA compliant? I was looking at some but wondered if they would pass? No I don't think they do as they protrude more than 9.5mm and I'm not sure if there would be any sharp edges or they would retract if subjected to 40kgf…. and I'm not going to try it either, but fear not I have a back up plan already at hand. From the manual... All switches, control knobs etc which are mounted on the instrument panel which are within the "specified zone", contactable by a 165mm diameter. Sphere and protrude from the instrument panel by more than 9.5mm must be likely to retract or detach with no sharp edges when subject to an impact of 40kgf.
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Post by scooby1929 on Nov 27, 2014 23:28:25 GMT
Love the starter button very Honda S2000.
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trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Dec 1, 2014 21:13:29 GMT
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Post by jgilbert on Dec 1, 2014 22:55:19 GMT
What diameter did you go for?
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trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Dec 2, 2014 9:57:29 GMT
What diameter did you go for? It wasn't so much the diameter I went for it was more of a case of that was the diameter of the steering wheel.. In answer to your question. The one I got is 350mm (about 13 1/2" for the US guys) which I think is a really nice size. The original MX5 one on my car is 370mm ( about 14 1/2"). The trouble with my original wheel is that the top part of the steering wheel rubber has de bonded from the internal frame meaning I can twist the rubber back and forth. So no good for iva.
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