Well I got the part molded, trimmed and roughly fitted on the trike. I have about 1/2” clearance around the complete radiator. Hopefully my windshield will be in tomorrow so I can see how it all will fit together. I should be able to remove the complete unit in just a few minutes if everything goes right. I just rough sanded the part so it has not been faired yet. One layer of carbon and 4 layers of 8.8 Oz bidirectional cloth using West epoxy.
This is the first time I have ever made a mold and part like this. It sure is a lot of work so hats off to Stiggy and others that do this for a living.
Finally decided how I wanted to finish my bonnet. Here is the start of the process. I will be using the windscreen as a mold that I will do the glass layup over it. I have a lot of work ahead to fair it in before doing the layup. During the layup I will also bond the front nose so it will be a complete piece when I get done. I will trim it down and make a smaller windscreen that will be attached underneath the top of the bonnet with four button head screws. The bonnet will be attached with four quick release fasteners so it can be removed within minutes leaving the instrument console that is bolted to the frame. This will make it very easy to service any part of the trike quickly.
Roger helped me decide how I wanted to go. The original design was too large and out of place. This was the smallest I could make it and have it fit in scale. I wanted to streamline it as much as possible for better gas economy so this was as close as I could get and have everything fit. We will see after I get the part made and trimmed if I met my goal. The main thing will be how easy it will be to remove to be able to work on everything under the bonnet the same as the other MEV kits.
I am committed to the shape now. I did the layup with 3 layers of 8.8 Oz. bidirectional glass cloth and one layer of carbon Uni. I will fair the bonnet with West epoxy and micro-balloons and put one more layer of cloth on top and a few layers on the bottom of the flat sections to finish it off. Then the fun of how to trim it to the best shape. Comments are welcome as they have helped me quite a bit during this build.
I trimmed and did a rough sand to see where I am at. I think it will turn out ok. By putting the instrument panel in front of the cross brace makes for a cleaner design. This is the view I see from my seating position so it is not bad at all. Hopefully The wind will be deflected above my head so I will not need a windscreen. All designs are compromises but here I have met all of my goals consisting of the following:
Front radiator for better cooling. Also able to have the side cases without any problems with cooling.
Easy removal of bonnet. Just four quick release fasteners and the complete bonnet comes off to do any work if needed.
Wind protection from the front. I will have the same protection as stock maybe better as there is no gap underneath the front windshield molding.
Fenders that are legal in Wisconsin. They had to be larger and I have accomplished that goal. They will be trimmed down to size and have an 20 degree angle cut in front and back.
Larger gas tank that fits with stock air cleaner on a 2005 Burgman 400. It should work very well and being all stainless will never rust.
Rear tail/brake lights and directional signals. I came up with something that will work great and can be adjusted on the fly for extremely brightness if needed . It has different patterns that also can be changed on the fly by pressing a button on the dash. The side cases will not affect the operation or visibility of the system.
New top A-Arms to have adjustable caster and camber.
Modified lower A-arms. Both these mods will give me 26 degree travel up and down for a total of 52 degrees. It will be bulletproof and should last a long time before rod end replacement.
Most of the design elements are done so now I can focus on welding all the tabs on and getting on with the build. I hope you get your kit this weekend as I am sure you will put the seat in temporarily to see how far back it has to go for you to be comfortable with the petals. Then you will go through to same things as I to make the design fit perfectly for yourself. Along the way you will find new skills you never thought you had building this trike. I sure have.
Update Trimmed the fender and installed everything to see how it looks before welding the mounting tabs on. Will be mounting the bonnet with four of these.
Also thinking of adding a layer of carbon cloth over the windscreen part of the bonnet and clear coating it with epoxy with a U/V additive. The rest of the bonnet and nose would be red including the wings. The frame and A-Arms will be black.
I also made my final mounts for the headlights and turn signals. I will use a 3/8" Button head to fasten the lights on the bottom instead of the cap screw shown. I have to cut off the two headlight mounts and make two new ones that will fit over the front shocks as my frame was modified from a handle bar model that Kevin modified for the steering rack and wheel.
Started the layup for the new instrument console. After this is cured, trimmed and sanded it will be epoxied to the original instrument panel that is currently used as a mold. Then some final fairing and a layer of carbon cloth will go over the top and faired into the instrument panel. It will be sanded and clear coated. When I get done is should look like one piece with the carbon showing on top.
Once this is done and mounted to the frame I can use this same method with the bonnet. I will fit it to the frame with the four push button quick releases first and then do all the layups, fairing, trimming and sanding ready for primer and paint. Hopefully will turn out well.
Finished adding 4 layers of carbon cloth on top and bottom of bonnet. Welded tabs for hood quick release buttons. Fitted bonnet and tested. Can be removed and reinstalled in less than 20 seconds and is very secure.
Reshaped rear taillight faring and added a couple layers of carbon cloth on inside of fairing. this will be sanded and clear coated on the inside with the red on the outside.
Made 90% of my tabs and are being welded on. Should have most of it done by next weekend.
Found location for battery and start relay. Tabs will be welded next week.
Made aluminum radiator tubes to connect radiator to engine. Added beading to ends to prevent hoses from slipping off.
Made custom mirror mounts that will be welded to top side tubes of frame next week.
Finished side case mounts. Bungs will be welded on next week.
Re-designed arrangement of Loom, rear brake hose, throttle cable and aluminum radiator tubes going from the front to the rear of the trike. Everything fits and is starting to look very clean.
Re-designed mount for radiator.
Re-designed mount for instrument panel
Designed mount for radiator overflow tank.
Overall really cleaned up mounting points and where everything is connected. The bonnet turned out nice and with a press on the four quick release buttons she is off for a full view of everything up front. It was worth doing and I am very happy it works as planned instead of the other way around.
I am still waiting for my Billet Top A-arms to be made that will allow adjustable caster and camber. The geometry is the same as stock and everything will fit in the stock bushing tabs.
I will post some pictures next week after all the tabs are tack welded on. Everything will be permanently welded using a TIG welder instead of the MIG for tack's and minor welds.
Here is a picture of some of the tabs I made and a picture of us in a Morgan at EAA a week ago.