I am like Erik, Anal about every detail but that seperates the men from the boys so to speak.
Didn't noticed that quote LOL!! thx!
Here some additional reference what I have been doing before I started my tR1ke build: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1358426 Might be of use for you as well, only you need to use local resins and I'm very focussed on building light, not rigid so little experience with polyesther resins.
In order to have a rolled edge I needed to do the cutout first and shape the edge. I tried some different shapes and this is what I came up with. When you look at the big picture you will see it start to blend in better. I tried to incorporate the top bonnet curve into the design. Hope you like it in its very rough shape.
I tried to backtrack on this thread, but I don't see it: why did you move the radiator in the first place? Just for the heating? Looks fantastic, just curious about why the extra work.
Great to have you on the forum.
This is why I had to put the radiator in front. The side case would block the airflow and I was not going to give up the side cases. It might even look better but we will wait an see how that pans out. I also had to redo the tail light assembly for the same reason but that is now done and should work well. I am sure you will notice the BrightAssLights auxiliary tail/brake light I incorporated into it.
I always look at the overall picture on how everything will fit and how easy it is to disassemble in case I need to fix something. With the radiator in front It will be a breeze to work on the engine and it will look cleaner too.
Ah! The cases! That makes total sense. They look GREAT back there, though I wonder how it will affect the handling when loaded down (more prone to lifting the inside wheel, perhaps?).
I'm really interested in a kit, but I have to sell my sidecar before I can even think about ordering one. The Eco still isn't exactly what I'm looking for... I'd like to have something that will keep the rain off, and heating would be a serious bonus. Hence my interest in the Elio Motors thingamajig that they've yet to name, and may never see the light of day. I think the Eco-Exo could be rigged up to work, but I'm not sure how. Modifications are kind of intimidating when you have limited tools and no idea what you're doing!
The nose cone on yours looks fantastic. Makes the Eco look a little more like a race car and a little less like a Lego Technic set.
Hi Edward, The shape is getting better, only you need the front level with the bottom plate first. if you stick with the intake shape you need to shape the top of the foam as well which seems to be pretty hard to make spot on.
I will tweak the shape this weekend and post the latest. As soon as it looks pretty good, the drywall compound will go on for the final fairing work and then the glass will go on. After it is cured I will do some sanding to smooth the top out and remove it from the mold. then some trim work and I will fit and bond it to the top part of the bonnet. Then some fairing to match up both pieces and it will be ready for the windshield mounting. I will make a frame that I will fasten the windshield on and glass and fair that in on the top of the bonnet. After that final finishing and painting and it will be done.
While waiting for the fairing compound to dry I wanted to tackle the windshield. I am having one made so I tried some rough shapes to get an idea what to go for. I found out the smaller the better looking it became. This is the shape I came up with where the wind should blow over my head when driving. The windshield comes up to the bottom of my nose. It is the smallest size that will fit the instrument console.
Before making a foam template what do you all think before going ahead on this shape?
Ed: I am looking at you sitting in the cockpit. I am considering not using the RCI seat I just bought. There is a "SIGNIFIGANT" amount of space between your backside and the lowest possible seating position. There has to be at least another 3 - 5 inches of space between where you currently sit and the lowest seating position if you used a Tillet seat (for example). Currently you do not look as though you are inside the thingypit but more perched "out of it". Do this, remove the seat from the adjuster, leave the spacers attached, then place a board over the spacers and sit down inside. If you are comfortable with your leg length to the controls, then lookover the current windshield. I believe we can get the streamlined design with you more inside by lowering the seat position. Is it possible to lower the welded mounts, or do away with the seat?? I would almost opt for a NON adjustable seat (since I am the sole driver) as a way to be seated lower. I mean, you want to be way down below the slip stream and perhaps angled back more. This would give more space between your thighs and the steering wheel as well.
So, if you lower the seat, or replace it with a basic GRP seat, then lower the windshield, you gain lower lower center of gravity, better slip stream, sleeker look and increased space between your thighs and the steering wheel.
I ride for great distances on my motorcycle. I have a small backrest that hits the lower part of my back. It makes all the difference. The high back might provide a better level of comfort, but if you got a lower seat, I believe you would still be comfortable.
Well I was able to lower the instrument console and trimmed it to a smaller shape. I just checked and maybe I could gain 1" having the seat fixed but right now it is very comfortable and the closeness of steering wheel is a non issue at this time. If I lower the seat I will not be able to see the gauges as the steering wheel will be blocking those. See picture below with moving the camera down two inches at my eye level! Everything is a tradeoff such as the windshield will be a little bit lower than I wanted but hopefully I will get a shape that will have the air flow over the top of my head.
I tried a XL Tillet seat and it was uncomfortable for me. This one feels much better. After I run the trike for a while and I do not use the seat adjuster I will remove it and hope I can still see the gauges OK. That will lower it about one inch.
This is as small as I can make the instrument console. The windshield I will have made will hug it pretty close but the front will be a little wider so it will balance with the look of the trike.
I see your point on not seeing the gauges. How much lower before you can see them through the steering wheel opening? Short of riding recumbent in the cockpit, I need to have a lower profile. I believe you told me you were shorter than I am, so I am at an instant disadvantage when it comes to sitting inside the confines of the cage.
Tomorrow I am off to Lake George New York. It is the third day of the Tour Expo or "Americade" It is a huge motorcycle show with about a thousand different vendors selling everything from "souped up" bikes to "Nuts and bolts"... Who knows, I may find something I don't need (but just want) and find it at a bargain price.
Anyway, I am curious to see what you come up with as the design for your windshield. You have a good design sense, so when it comes to making something like a plexiglass surround, it will turn out good....
Today the floor finishers come and I need to get the house in some sort of order, including getting my wife off to work before they get here. The dogs have been fed and watered so they can stay in the other end of the house. There is an echo sort of like a gymnasium when it is empty. So.... Got to get busy.