Well the tabs were welded in today. We also welded the battery box and start relay holder, stops for the throttle and brake petals, instrument panel mount, top radiator mount and front and rear supports for the radiator lines and loom.
Funny when you get done there seems to be things missing but with all the cleanup it really got rid of the clutter.
I got a small emergency flasher button with the two triangles from E-bay today. I think I will be able to mount it in my new instrument panel as it is quite small.
I am getting pretty close to getting it to the final finishing welding stage. I will wait till my top a-arms come in and do one last trial fit.
The 2005 Burgman had a few challenges to overcome. Then adding a front radiator and carbon bonnet took it to a new level.
For Stiggy this might be a piece of cake but for me it is new territory that I have never done before.
Hopefully it will turn out to be a really cool looking trike.
It really give you respect on what people can create including your tr1ke.
I make mockups that I tape to the frame. Then I find out how large a tab I need for that location. I standardize the size to 1/4-20 tap for most of them and get them made. I do all the cleanup and wear a glove to hold it in position while my friend tack welds them in place. It has been working pretty good so far.
for best result you need patience and some read through in other builds to see different aproaches. having to wait for the kit to arrive makes good opportunity to make up ones mind on several items. for instance, it takes me several weeks to figure out my color sheme.Scott will be in need for the RAL code by now LOL!! can't speed up what takes time.
one thing i learned from my tRR1ke is to finish the loom before powder coating. one always need more tabs as intended
Yes I agree with that. I am cleaning up and redoing my loom one last time. After finding the location of the battery box and starter relay I had those tabs welded on. When I fitted my loom I found a better way to route it and where it exits the rear of the trike. I shortened the cable going to the starter motor and will shorten the wiring going to the relay. After everything is nice and neat in back I will do the same in front by the instrument panel. after all that is done I will take the plastic corrugated cover off and rewrap the entire loom with some stretchable self-sealing silicone rubber tape. Where the loom is close to the radiator lines it will be enclosed in some thermal sleeving. The radiator lines will also have a sleeve over each one. I will also sleeve the brake line and throttle cable in locations needed. This is what I will use. 1835-126 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
I have been eyeballing to those sleves for a while, but the biggest disadvantage is one needs to remove all connectors or couplings to get the wiring/hoses through which is not practical. There are versions available with velcro seams but very expensive. As for heat protection, 0.5" studs made from coolant hose are great when t-wrapped in between hoses/looms/cables etc. You might have noticed on hot coolant hoses heat is low at 0.5" distance and when driving temp will be lower due to turbulence. I did use wiring (110Celcius) and spiral hose (90Celcius) to prevent meltdowns and shortage. I used the studs to create space in between the chasis and wiring as well to prevent wear on the powder coating and possible shortage. Spiral hose is used to let moist escape from the loom (it does get in but can get out as well ) Heatshrink with hotglue inside is used to water proof the soldering joints. Basically the loom is waterproof but needs spiral hose to tidy it up and additionall protection from wear.
I recon all electronics will be boxed under the dash?
The only area I needed the thermo sleeve is where the top aluminum cover fits near the front about 3 feet. The solid ones will slip over the aluminum coolant tubes. The more I think about it I will use 3 feet of the Velcro type to cover the loom, throttle and brake lines all as one bundle and a couple feet that is solid that fits over the brake line as it follows the coolant tubes all the way back. That will help keep that area cooler. Good idea with the hose insulators. I will post a picture when I get the back done so it all will make sense when you see it.
Yes, all the electronics will be under the dash except the rectifier that will be mounted on the rear firewall.
Here are a few pictures of the cleaned up loom. The ECU fits well here and should be well protected. The added relays for the lights and horn will be mounted on the right side in back of the brake manifold in the picture shown. When everything is done it should fit pretty close to the bottom sides of the instrument console. You can also see the new location of the side mirrors and headlight brackets. In the US we can mount them up as close as 24" center to center.
Tested the loom today and everything tested good. I still cannot believe I have the correct number of wires going to all the points needing relays to switch the loads. I also got my grill from Racemeshgrilles.com today. It is a black chrome diamond finish with 3 diamonds per inch. It is very heavy duty woven s/s mesh and fits perfectly.
I plan to make all the tabs for mounting the relays this weekend and will post pictures when done.
I also got the rear of the loom done with the proper lugs to the battery and grounds to the chassis.
I plan to use the Odyssey PC545 and the battery tray fits it perfectly.
Figured out the location for the four added relays for Hi, Low, Horn and Start. Drilled and tapped the mounting holes and also installed and wired the emergency flasher switch next to the wiper stalk. All the relays fit under the instrument console so it should look very clean when I remove my bonnet.
Also plan a Mosfet R/R upgrade. By next week I will have the stereo system figured out and all the wiring completed.
I also finished most of my loom today and mounted my Stebel Nautilus horn. All the relays and ECM are mounted on tabs and brackets. Everything is wired in except my radio and a couple spare circuits if I every need them in the future.
The hard part was getting everything to fit. Roger is still active and we talk frequently on the phone. He has helped me out a great deal and has made some axles, spacers and other parts for my build. He is a great guy and helped guide me to where I am now. Even helped with the location of the fusebox so I can get to it without taking anything apart. His videos of the throttle cable helps me quite a bit and he made me the spacer to tie the two throttle cables together. I am going to use that as my mockup before having a custom cable made.
It is taking longer than I thought but I want to bullet proof all the systems so I do not have problems later on.
The good part is that most of the engineering is done. After wiring in the connectors for the lights and ignition switch I can take the loom out and do the final cleanup and wrap to finish it off. Then it will just be plug and play for that part.
Now I will think about the rear bulkhead covers. After that is designed and the tabs welded in it will be time to blast and paint the frame. Getting close to that point now.