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Post by juddyjuddster on Aug 2, 2014 20:20:47 GMT
Thanks guys. Erik that's a good point on the headlight bracket as I would want my bonnet off so maybe I make longer brackets in the first place.
I do track days so stability is important but I like Slugshots ARB solution so that could be a copy of that as the original demo trike did roll with my weight in it. I am not worried about dropping the engine for the clutch I have taken bike engines out of most of my bikes it's usually easy compared with cars as you can see where everything goes so I hope this is the same.
One thing that puzzles me is the radiator is mounted in front of the engine right between the seats where I would put a bulkhead. I take it due to lack of air everyone now mounts it up in the nose?
I will be at Donny for sure and hope to meet you guys down there and in the rocket if the sun slightly shines and the camping is good. Thanks Ian
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2014 21:32:13 GMT
No the mounting of the radiator needs to be relocated to the front behind the grill, because although it's a common location for a motorbike its not going to get anywhere enough air flow to be effective. You shouldn't need to remove headlights when removing the bonnet, no idea why Erik needs to do this apart from mounting the headlights too close to the bonnet. If they are mounted centrally when the bonnet is on, there is no need to loosen them to remove the bonnet.
Nobody ever fitted the rad where yours is, Slugshot played around with side mounting and porting the airflow via substantial side mounted scoops, but even he had issues, and he spent a lot of time testing the best ways to do it. Really, the nose mounting position is the best, mine maintains cool efficient running temperature on the hottest of days like this.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using proboards
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Post by juddyjuddster on Aug 3, 2014 8:23:24 GMT
Thanks venom that all makes sense to me I had to admit I really couldn't see the rad working back there.
Just can't wait to get started on the build as I am holiday at the mo. Bad timing as ever.
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Post by slugshot on Aug 3, 2014 20:36:41 GMT
Thanks guys. I do track days so stability is important but I like Slugshots ARB solution so that could be a copy of that as the original demo trike did roll with my weight in it. Thanks Ian You might want to check what the spring rate on the front shocks are as they could be too soft with yours being the first I'm wondering if rtr were still experimenting back when yours was built. The arb is well worth fitting and has definitely transformed the handling, I did a trackday at blyton last monday and try different settings and settled with it still having a little lean but really showed how it improved the handling when pushing it. My best lap before fitting the arb was 1m.19.2s and now fitted my best is 1m.15.5s without trying too hard, though I have also fitted better front tyres which would help. I'll upload a short clip from the day which hopefully will show the lack of leaning in the corners. Kevin
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Post by juddyjuddster on Aug 4, 2014 7:25:39 GMT
Yes Kevin I think you will be correct about the shocks on the front as RTR mention in an early part of this thread to make them 320lb I think so it sounds like they need to be changed. For the msva did you need to fit a full style rear mudguard of is the R1 ok?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2014 9:23:49 GMT
The hugger is perfectly fine for test as its standard fit on a bike
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Post by juddyjuddster on Aug 4, 2014 14:16:21 GMT
That keeps things simple thanks
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Post by erik on Aug 4, 2014 18:49:40 GMT
Yes Kevin I think you will be correct about the shocks on the front as RTR mention in an early part of this thread to make them 320lb I think so it sounds like they need to be changed. For the msva did you need to fit a full style rear mudguard of is the R1 ok? Build it stock and have a professional do the math on the springs for you. Can't beat that
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Post by juddyjuddster on Aug 4, 2014 19:22:30 GMT
Thanks Erik the ones with the kit are 120lb so I will need to up them but it's not a big issue yet far more to worry about than that and as you say the experts with have a better idea now what is needed.
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Post by roadtrackrace on Aug 13, 2014 16:43:17 GMT
225lb are normal now.
The bones are current spec so you will need the stiffer springs.
We have just a placed a stock order for springs and will have them in a week or so.
RTR
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Post by juddyjuddster on Aug 13, 2014 22:05:18 GMT
Thanks RTR I hope to place an order for a few bits to pick up at Donny show so I'll be in touch.
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Post by juddyjuddster on Sept 4, 2014 12:28:31 GMT
Just bought this off fleabay but I am worried. Firstly the box clearly says it's for a Rocket but I have a trike so will it fit? It's form the Early Learning Centre ages 3-8 so that's all fine.
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Post by juddyjuddster on Jan 12, 2016 7:44:16 GMT
Well it's been ages since I felt like writing anything about the tr1ke. It's not far off being done but it has given me a hard time of late. I was going to finish over Christmas but the clutch sprung reversed as soon as I was about to take the first ride up my street. I can't get the clutch off without dropping the engine but I could get the cover off enough to loosen it off the spring and set it up again. Second time of asking it did it again. I think the car doesn't want to come out the garage in a hurry. I have two options I can get a Barnett clutch upgrade, £270 or try to fit my Fazer 1000 clutch. The Fazer has roughly the same engine but a normal style motorbike sprung clutch, after a quick look it seems promising but I can't find anyone else who has done this. Oh well I'll have to see if I can stretch the budget again and get the upgrade. Other than the clutch and a bit of a wiring issue, when the brake light is on one indicator lights up, it's just about ready for the test.
Oh well best get on with it all.
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Post by BobN on Jan 12, 2016 9:56:46 GMT
Good luck and hope you get it done in time for Stoneleigh. Would love to see it.
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Post by Stiggy on Jan 12, 2016 10:09:38 GMT
Well it's been ages since I felt like writing anything about the tr1ke. It's not far off being done but it has given me a hard time of late. I was going to finish over Christmas but the clutch sprung reversed as soon as I was about to take the first ride up my street. I can't get the clutch off without dropping the engine but I could get the cover off enough to loosen it off the spring and set it up again. Second time of asking it did it again. I think the car doesn't want to come out the garage in a hurry. I have two options I can get a Barnett clutch upgrade, £270 or try to fit my Fazer 1000 clutch. The Fazer has roughly the same engine but a normal style motorbike sprung clutch, after a quick look it seems promising but I can't find anyone else who has done this. Oh well I'll have to see if I can stretch the budget again and get the upgrade. Other than the clutch and a bit of a wiring issue, when the brake light is on one indicator lights up, it's just about ready for the test. Oh well best get on with it all. It sounds like the pedal stop needs modifying. These are crucial to get right. The pedal is short and sensitive, a modified lever ratio would make them easier to control. You should be able to drill a fresh hole closer to the pedal pivot and then move the cable bracket. 50mm from cable bolt centre to pedal pivot bolt centre is the issue. Below 40mm is the way to go.
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