|
Post by slugshot on Mar 27, 2013 19:35:33 GMT
Hi Eric
Do you think the type of battery you use would be any better for the reverse system than what I'm using. I'm happy with how long they last between re charging and the performance on the flat and small inclines, but as you can see from my vids it would be better if it had more torque. I have a 2 wheeled caravan mover that uses the same battery setup as my tR1ke but it has very low gearing and its amazing how well it works. Changing the motor windings would be a little extreme just to gain more torque, so far its coped ok with any reversing Ive done so far even with a passenger but it would definitely not be any good reversing up any inclines.
Cheers Kevin
|
|
|
Post by erik on Mar 27, 2013 21:45:40 GMT
My Shido battery can take about 7x45 seconds failed starting attempts at pretty high rpm. I even began to worry about the starter motor overheating.
Biggest problem is the gearing is wrong. If you can trace the maker of this set you might be able to find a better ratio or they might upgrade it if you explain the issue. Worth spending time on this. Then you can remove the additional bateries as well.
|
|
|
Post by slugshot on Mar 27, 2013 22:05:22 GMT
Hi Eric
Having a smaller gear made for the reverse could be the answer, ill have a measure to see if its possible.
Cheers Kevin
|
|
|
Post by erik on Mar 28, 2013 21:03:14 GMT
Ran the engine today again with new sparkplugs. Starting the engine is still difficult BUT the rev needle shows 3000rpm error: throttle position sensor. The mechanic told me the idle rpm should be about 1200rpm while I have set the idle at 2000rpm when the fan is running. the batt is recharging again and hope to sort this tomorrow if weather permits (just started minor snowing over here). if I cannot get this solved I need to book the mechanic to come over here but he is booked for 2 weeks already... Fortunately he is willing to help me outside his shop. slooooowwww.....
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2013 10:23:53 GMT
Hi Erik,
The engine if 1998-2001 on Carbs should after choke is on, turn a couple of times and fire. I leave mine on choke for maybe 40-50 secs, then it ticks over at about 1200 rpm. I get the engine to maybe 65 degrees before driving it a bit harder.
A bike on Fuel Injection generally does not need choke, and again should start and run without any issue.
Make sure your fuel pump is working, make sure any immobilisers are working properly, make sure your battery is fully charged, to give you the best chance.
Full sympathy for you, my first engine turned out to have a major issue low down, either piston rings, or the crank. My issue was that although it started and ran fine for 20 minutes, the engine lost all low end power, needing it to crank up to 6000RPM to get it to drive.... Spent ages as i'm sure you read working on the engine, and money spent on a new head gasket, all to no avail. In the end another engine sorted my issues. I would defo advise you to get the help from your mechanic, and if he is a bike mechanic even better. The tacho does display different rpm readings depending on the issue, and on the newer engines, it even displays a fault code in the LCD readout.
Hope you get it sorted...Don't let it get you down as it was me. It will be so worth it once it is sorted, the first drive of it all working puts any hard work, skinned knuckles, swearing to the back of your mind :-)
|
|
|
Post by erik on Mar 29, 2013 11:54:18 GMT
Thanks for the heads up:) Because you struggles with your engine I gave her a good check up and dynojet run before dissasemble the bike so I do not expect my engine to be wrong nor the loom I made. The engine has been dyno tested and approved with 148HP at the rear wheel (better as average) I do not think there is a big problem, only I cannot seem to get it started again. everything else works fine. Today the engine started like a charm with full batterie and ran her up to 50C before reducing rpm to 1300 with fan on. The throttle cable is hanging lose and the added spring brings back the engine to idle spot on. Stopped the engine and failed to restart. Cleaned the throttle position sensor with no luck. The 3000rpm error dissapeared when restarrting which indicates the idle was set too high at first. Checked the wiring but this was okay. I have no options left now and made an appointment with the Dynojet bike mechanic to come over and help me out. Right now I feel a bit awkward not having 1 or 2 towing rings welded to the front. Perhaps I might make something from planks to tow it to him, only 3 miles down the road. I am definately not toying around with the engine. It should be in perfect condition before dissasembly of the bike and I don't think this will be an expensive checkup. at this moment it doesn't make sense to adjust the clutch cable and check the gear lever travel. Shifting to 1st gear felt the travel was a bit short. I'll add the solenoid to reverse the clutch switch. The mechanic does't think this is the issue here because it does start in neutral. I was in doubt if the fuel pump would be too small but after a few seconds it stops pumping which indicates the fuel lines to the carbs are filled. good news is the rear tire didn't run flat like the first time appointment set at april16. I just removed one tank so he can get to the wiring easier if needed. Closed the T-piece to the removed tank. Right now i am lucky having the fuel level indicator mounted on the other tank by accident LOL!! I guess MVSA wil be late for me but in the end I'll get that grin LOL!! This setback will not get me down. Patience is a good friend.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2013 16:30:34 GMT
when I had my issues with my TR1KE down inNottingham at RTR, they tried to get it going towing it off one wishbone, I would say the nicest towing option is to attach a pair of belts to each side that come to the centre of the vehicle and put a nice elastic type towing belt on. I made a nice short strong seatbelt towing attachment for mine to allow the belt to wrap around the roll bar, with a view to towing it up onto a transporter or trailer, but if careful, towing on the wishbone should be fine, after all the vehicle doesn't weigh too much
|
|
|
Post by erik on Apr 18, 2013 20:50:29 GMT
Finally the bike mechanic managed to make a proper diagnose on the illness of my engine not wanting to start when hot. Main problem was the new fuel pump is short stroke (keeps ticking when engine running which shows it was undersized) but giving too much pressure pressing gasoline past the needles on to the pistons. On a cold engine this was an additional choke but way to much for a hot engine. Exessive fuel sinked past the pistons into the oil. replaced the original pump. It took me 3 days to reject this version due to bad nipple routing on this pump but an other 2 days I found an acceptable location in front of the left fuel tank cap. next day starting the engine was a pita because the last session ended rich end at 60C the engine failed to restart again. A phonecall to the mechanic made him clueless for that moment but today he told me to reduce the added ilde spring tension to a mimimum. and make adjustments to the pilot screw to adjust the air/fuel ratio because the engine has no tank and fairing covering the airbox anymore. After several trials I rotated these screws 180degrees clockwise now. at this moment I managed to restart the 60C engine 6 times in a row using 30% throttle on startup. He advised me to make a testdrive to bring the engine to full temp before further fine tuning but This isn't an option for now in a crowded area with losta cops on motorbikes this week. The engine is good enough for the time being. Made 110 pics of details for RTR to check before I'm making arangements for shipping. Not sure where to start but I'll get this sorted Need to swap the headlights and find me some rubber M8 washers to bolt the bonnet into place and that's it! Pic link: s1172.photobucket.com/user/tingeling12/library/tR1ke%20build%20completedMight be for some use for interested. Feel free for a shameless copy
|
|
|
Post by seabee70 on Apr 20, 2013 14:08:58 GMT
Those are great photos, Erik. Your attention to detail is commendable & will inspire future builders. I intend to copy at least one of your methods & maybe more. Thanks for sharing.
|
|
|
Post by erik on Apr 21, 2013 10:46:20 GMT
That's what a forum is for enjoy!
|
|
|
Post by erik on May 2, 2013 15:50:33 GMT
Hmmm, strugling to get the air/fuel mixture right paid it's toll today when i wanted to test the gear change lever travel. All new spark plugs have been worn out within 25 minutes total runtime. The mechanic told me the plugs cannot cope well starting frequently without burning clean while driving. Got me new NGK 4548 C9EK twin spark plugs, soon to be installed. I guess I'd better start the engine only once before MVSA now... Still matching the best date for MVSA at RTR. Headlights,RTR, trailer rent, ferry,job, driver (I'm not allowed driving a trailer/caravan with my license). Hope to make the travel within a day. Planning Rotterdam-Hull because this seems to be shortest (safest )
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 2, 2013 20:29:53 GMT
You can easily do this in a day mate, hull to Rotterdam is a nice overnight crossing, I travelled to Kotz in Germany and back in 36 hrs, towing my Boom Lowrider purchased in Kotz from a Boom dealer. A total of 1768 miles, only resting for the 2hrs crossing between Dover and Calais. It's well achievable
|
|
|
Post by erik on May 3, 2013 21:09:03 GMT
Hi Nick, I'll look into that if I can manage the road trip+ferry in a day. Seems you're right indeed. Just finished installing the spark plugs and fixing the bonnet. Removed the headlights too. I'll finish the exell sheet to see what this project cost me before street legal. I haven't paid to much attention on it lately with the small hardware etc. Make decent folders for the ducuments and receipts and a tooling list for the RHD lights installed in the UK. I am not even reconsidering to start the engine at this moment. Not going to remove the dust of the tR1ke as well. cleaning will only make scratches. Need to pay some attention to the rod bolted tot he gear shaft clamp. I't tends to losen a bit while shifting.
|
|
|
Post by erik on May 6, 2013 21:11:49 GMT
I need some advice here, i'm printing the receips of parts ordered on the net. Few are purshased on ebay because I wasn't able to trace a webshop. from memory MVSA showed issues on ebay products on other projects but I cannot retrieve the post I read regarding This a long time ago.
Any help appreciated. Thx in advance, Erik
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 6, 2013 21:15:33 GMT
Most of my purchases were from eBay, really I can't see why there would be an issue. All of my purchases however had a receipt. It's not an issue buying anything from anywhere if you have a receipt.
|
|