sudenly I had a brainfart how to align the wheels. Now that the mudguards are removed and wheels as well it is a simple no brainer to measure the angles. In my garage I am not able to do proper measurements if the alu square tube is facing backwards (space restricted) but it would be muchh easier to open the garage doors and poke them outside. Need to get me an additional one. The only thing I may not be able to tweak it the steering wheel in neutral position when it tracks straight. I may have to rotate the wheel 30 degrees to sort this out.
The height of the rearend of the chasis is 16cm now without driver and the spring feels soft. The front spring feel very hard. Not sure if this is correct but Hyperpro gives full warranty on this so I'll pay a visit to them anyway to have a testdrive and tweaking. if needed they will change springs for free.
The wife asked if the chasis could be raised. NOPE! ;D
As you can see the hub can move free now and I can make all adjustments. placing the bolts on the stones will not affect the coating. The top surfaces of the bricks are level. I assume this is the best and easiest route.
I'll make some mods as well. The brake fluid warning light will be relocated to the steering column cover which makes removing the body much faster. i will add a 12V connection to the cover as well for the nav. like this i can t-wrap the steering lock key to the nav adapter. This makes is very unlikely I'll forget to remove the nav and/or key when I am outdoors showing off my tr1ke at a parking lot LOL!!
The left side of the cover will be reserved for a fan switch if needed. I may install an additional fan in the bulkhead opening for cooling at traffic lights.
Pics of tweaking the chamber and toe in. Had some confusing reread through old posts of Kevin, Edwin and Rik which seem to have used different settings each.
The front springs appear to be quite stiff. me sitting on the side of the chasis made the left spring go in only a few mm and I didn't even bother to add weight in my seat to level her out. Hyperpro found the stock springs to be very light when cornering. I am very curious if these springs will work out right (should be because when cornering an additional huge load will be placed on these shocks. Still I think it might be a little bit softer but this is adjustable. Not toughing anything on the shocks due to warranty settings )
My base is Rik's posts. he claimed 5mm chamber for 17"wheels which is tan(5/470)=0,60 degrees. Toe in is 1mm for both wheels, 0.5mm each wheel which according to pm with Rik is about 1 minute=0.01667degrees. Measuring by meter and scaled leveller resulted in 0.75 degrees on the right brake disk (20mm over 150cm height) and 0.60degrees for the left disc. 1 revolution of the ball-link is 0.34 degrees so no tweaking here.
I did some eyeballing on the toe in and measurement showed i have 0.308 degrees in total toe in this is 0.154 per disc which seems spot on to Rik's advice . Making one revolution on this ball link makes toe out so no tweaking here as well.
I leveled the steering wheel and noticed the square tubings are only 3mm off from the sides of the bulkhead tube. This seemed the most accurate base for measurement within the lenght of the alu tubes. All other welds have to be made against this tubing.
Hmmm. Project is on hold again. I was just about to add the fluids and noticed the rear tire ran flat. Need to take it away for checkup when disaster struck. The day before, I slipped in the snow when walking and somehow my right feet turned purple and the lower leg increased in size. 2 anitbiotic treatments, x-ray, cooling, blood research with no significant results. I'm cooling and raised my leg upwards for 2 weeks now waiting for an echo next week.
So here it is in all it's glory. I'm still looking forward to add an aditional 12V socket on the steering column for the nav and place the brake fluid light over there as well to ease the removal of the bonnet. Need to work on the handbrake as well. That would end the project and prep for MVSA after testrun.
Well, turned out to be a massive massive blow on the lower leg while I slipped in the snow/ice in front of my porch. 2 antibiotic threatments,x-ray,blood and an echo research showed "only" 9mm of fluid in between the skin and bone needs to be vapourised in time but it does sink to the feet when standing but it is getting less already, only feeling the skin quite numb,stretched and mush and that's it. Bad thing is yesterday I caught a light flue which hasn't exposed to it's fully potential yet...
Yesterday and today I managed to toy around with the tR1ke build a little (what was left to do on the list). I relocated the brake fluid warning light on the column and added a 12V socket for the nav. The passenger footrest has been modified to size and rivetted to the floor (which is about the only item rivetted exept the floor plate). Turns ut the location of the footrest is very close to the vertical square tube on the right side. If I knew this before I'd weld an other square tube to this one to act as a footrest before powder coating which would suffice and look pretty neat as well.
Last thing to do is placing nut caps for MVSA. Not sure if this is needed and/if I need to seal off the steering rods to the hub. Any input highly appreciated here. From memory the Rocket/Atomic need the rods to be sealed but the tR1ke doesn't right?
Need to find me an item to close the 14mm hole in the dash where the warning light used to be as well. Removing the bonnet is acomplished with n a few minutes now because all hardware has been mounted outside the bonnet instead of through the bonnet.
Btw, the rear wheel seemed to be fine. It was remounted on the rim a few days ago and no leaks found to date. However, the mechanic noted the flanges of the Marangony appear to be not to have a superb finish as motorcycle tires.
I am reconsidering classic racing number plates cut from vinil on the bonnet. I recon #4 would be ligid because this is the 4th kit sold in the netherlands, but very likely #3 to be roadworthy in distant time so I am a bit puzzled which to chose. Any thoughts?
(Quote) The passenger footrest has been modified to size and riveted to the floor (which is about the only item riveted except the floor plate).
Rivnuts would be better that rivets, you will discover that road grit will collect behind the footplate and everywhere else come to think of it. So periodical removal to clean behind will be difficult .
(Quote) Last thing to do is placing nut caps for MVSA. Not sure if this is needed and/if I need to seal off the steering rods to the hub. Any input highly appreciated here. From memory the Rocket/Atomic need the rods to be sealed but the tR1ke doesn't right?
I think you're correct regarding not needing nut caps I never had any on mine although I did and still have the sleeve over the track rod lock nuts. I'm not sure if the slots in the steering wheel are ok for the msva, they might be, as I think Edwin's passed with his steering wheel unless it was temporarily swapped for the test??
You will need to have red reflectors facing backwards on the rear of the front mudguards if you haven't already, they won't accept reflectors built into the rear lights.
PS..its looking very nice Eric is it full of coolant... are the brakes bleed up and is it ready for a test (leg permitting of course)
Good point on the rivnuts. May go for bolt/locknut myself. I'm not too keen on the soft rivnut material.
Well the nutcaps don't come too expensive so I'll get me a lot of them. I recon left over coolant hose T-wrapped to he track rod would be good enough.
Will have to check on the reflectors on the mudguards . I don't have them and the tR1ke logo has already been added to this location... Need to browse through several threads
Nope still no fluids added. having a mild flu isn't helpfull on a 2 man's job LOL!!!
rear wheel is set in line with the drive chain. I noticed a 30mm wide ruler is perfect to trim the settings when placed against the tire side wall. If any adjustments need to be changed to drive in straight line it can be marked with some tape on the chasis as well. I was suprised to see in the R1 maintenance manual the drive chain needs to have 40-50mm flex when the bike is unloaded. Driving Ducati for 2 decades made me adjust the chain when loaded which is a pain to accomplish. unloaded is a no brainer LOL!! The only reason for doubt is that the measurements need to be made from the outer limits of the chain and not the centre of it which hasn't been noted very clear in the manual.
Leg is doing remarkably fine1 Feet doesn't get swollen anymore. Having temperature changes, headache, feeling dizzy and a lot of snot all over my handpalm occasionally Need to take it easy for a few days but it makes me an exellent keyboard warrior LOL!!!
You will definitely have to add reflectors on the guards they can be small like Nick and I use, they make good sense really, being that the wheels are the widest part of the tR1ke.
Have you ever tried stainless rivnuts with the serrated edge, I used them to fix the tunnel and a few low stress brackets including the footplate and have not had any problems. The footplate has been tested a few times by nervous passengers trying to slow down with an imaginary brake peddle
I wouldn't use the r1 manual as a ref to adjusting the chain, have you tested to see how much slack in the chain is taken up with someone sat in the drivers seat.
Good to know that your steering wheel has been chambered, I wasn't sure as its hard to see in the pics.