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Post by stevieboy on Feb 26, 2012 9:00:30 GMT
Spent alot of time cleaning up the callipers, going to paint them red and do a rebuild prior to refitting  |
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Post by stevieboy on Feb 26, 2012 9:29:23 GMT
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Post by John B on Feb 26, 2012 14:30:26 GMT
Hi Steve,
Have you found somewhere that does the caliper rebuild kits at good prices?
When you say fitting the clutch m/c and brake servo, pedals and steering wheel in was a time consuming ball ache, in what way was it?
Cheers.
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Post by mathew on Feb 26, 2012 17:12:56 GMT
Hi Steve, Have you found somewhere that does the caliper rebuild kits at good prices? When you say fitting the clutch m/c and brake servo, pedals and steering wheel in was a time consuming ball ache, in what way was it? Cheers. I think he was referring to the cutting of spacers, adding spacers, lining pedals up, lining steering up etc etc. There's quite a few threads covering the topic and it seems more often than not it takes a lot of fiddling about to get it to suit. |
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Post by stevieboy on Feb 26, 2012 19:48:12 GMT
Hi john, lining everything up is tricky, i put the clutch m/c on first then the pedal, no problem, then put brake servo plus pedal. Went to fit steering wheel and found i had to undo some nuts off the parts i'd just fitted. Then after i fitted all back together noticed wheel was off centre, so all off again and elongate column hanger, all back together again then realised you need to put seat in to get right height on wheel etc etc etc etc got fed up with the time lost at that stage, but all is well now. Just need to mention though, did not need to use any packers or grind anything off, there are some threads on here that have had to change quite alot of stuff to fit these, think i've been lucky even if i lost alot of time.
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Post by Stewart on Feb 26, 2012 22:37:42 GMT
Mate, I think that disc is on backwards ;D
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Post by stevieboy on Feb 26, 2012 22:53:57 GMT
yeah i know, but little grandson was so proud of what he'd done, we left it like that
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Post by stevieboy on Feb 29, 2012 12:02:44 GMT
Can anyone tell me the exhaust diameter on mx5 1.8 1994 trying to buy de-cat pipe but car is 24 miles away.
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Post by sspogman on Mar 1, 2012 20:58:40 GMT
Mine is a 1995 1.8 and I bought a 2" pipe to sort out the back box - seemed to be the perfect size. I think that the exhausts on these two model years are the same...?
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Post by stevieboy on Mar 1, 2012 22:14:49 GMT
Thanks mate, sometimes the stupid things take all the time up.
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Post by stevieboy on Mar 4, 2012 2:25:58 GMT
Well had a good day on it today, just got in at 1.35 am, started with the rear end which i had the hubs pressed of while they were off the car, relubed and fitted them back on just in case i ever have to take them off again. fitted both sides back on and was about to start the tank fit, thats when the drill decided to give up and end its life in a cloud of sparks and smoke.   Had to move onto the wiring due to not being able to fit the tank, it looks a nightmare when you start but the way the connecters are means that its pretty straight forward,   The rear transfer wires are going under the tunnel along the ppf then up to the tank. Trial fitted the rad also, will put in permanent when i get the spare drill to hand.  Will be making a tray to lay the loom in so it looks tidy, have laid the wires out roughly where its going and they all seem to fit ok  Hope to have the tank and fuel lines in by next week, have got a problem with the cat hitting the frame though,might have to put some flexi in or take the cat out and fit a narrower de-cat pipe  |
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Post by red5 on Mar 4, 2012 10:38:11 GMT
have the neighbours got access to your drill by any chance? - I worry about peeing mine off before 8 in the am and after 7in the pm, fair play for cracking on with it though.
fuel tank us reliatively easy to get in - fuel lines etc arnt so after you fix the tank.
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Post by ecowindman on Mar 4, 2012 11:42:50 GMT
Hi stevieboy
I had the same prob so I fitted a flex joint after the cat and replaced the centre box with a smaller round one then to rebend a pipe to et by the diff to them match the old centre box witch I moved to the back with new hangers
A bit of adjusting but it works well and sounds good
Keep up the good work
Geoff
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Post by stevieboy on Mar 4, 2012 16:27:57 GMT
Thanks for your helpful advice guys.
Red5, thankfully i get a free very large workshop well away from any civilisation in a lorry sales yard, the only rent to pay is that i can spend as long as i like there at night or weekends as the owner likes the security i give by being there,.... one happy builder... ;D
Ecowindman, thanks for the comments, will digest thoughly and also look at red5's build as he had similar problem and also used flexi.
On a lighter note, got the tank in this morning, and also measured up the tray i need to make for the electrics, it seems that luckily i need 9" wide and 32" long, after measuring the offcut from the floor remnants there is just under 10" width left. Maybe stiggy should make some remark about that in the kit build
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Post by stevieboy on Mar 4, 2012 19:08:52 GMT
Can anyone tell me if their rear cowl fits between the rollbar stays and comes forward enough to clear the rear cross member frame. I have a removable roll bar as we want to reduce the height to fit the car underneath the floor in the locker space in our rv so we dont have to tow a trailer. After fitting the tank today i trial fitted the rear cowl and found it is about 50mm to wide to fit between the roll bar uprights, this also means that it hangs over the rear cross member, it cannot move any further forward without serious cutting of the corners of the rear cowl. Have i ..1 made a mistake and there all like this...2 got the original cowl from a fixed roll frame.
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