exocet build

[red5]

You do need to trim the cowl to fit between the rear suspension supports ( approx a 150 x 50 mm slice square out of both sides) its in the build guide.

If you do this it sits between the roll bar uprights and is the correct length ( I have the heavyweight frame BTW), its a bit of a squeeze due to the angle of the Roll bar frame going up but it is sized perfectly.

I also had to trim some of the flanges off of the tank as these restricted the rear tub.

Ill keep a close eye on your build re lorry yard for some Scania wheel nuts , and a new stobart colour scheme

[stevieboy]

Hi red, wheel nuts no problem, just how many, i realise we have to trim around the supports, but my problem is the uprights. My roll bar sits well inside the main frame, and i would have to chop out each front corner of the rear cowl all the way up, its flush up to the uprights
and still hanging over the rear cross member by about 35mm but the uprights are 50mm narrower than the front of the cowl.

[adam1001]

Hi Stevie, have a word with Stuart about this. He sent me a letter about an updated roll hoop which I believe will solve (or at least alleviate) this problem.

[stevieboy]

Had a few hours today sorting out the last of the wires, got ignition but no power, checked every wire and couldn't find any problem, then turned on the nearside interior light to check for power, it lit up no problem, turned on the offside, no power, found a plug to fit and got power to it. Turned on the ignition again and suddenly ......she's alive!!!!.... Turns over a treat, didn't have any fuel with me so couldn't check for starting, i nearly chopped out the interior lights but thought i would get it running first, glad i did or that would have caused mega problems, be aware before you cut.

[stevieboy]

Right might have a problem, everything turning over at fast speed, still do not have engine to chassis earth fitted or ppf earth connected. Had battery red light on with first turn of ignition but on positioning clocks to take measurements for bracket, forgot to turn off ignition, back of clocks touched steering bracket and made some sparks, still have everything except ignition light. This is iva fail.... have checked every fuse and bulb, any help welcome please.

[red5]

Steve

there are a lot of 'lives' or pos (+ve) that run through the back of the instrument panal with the ig on , so dont worry too much as the body will be neg ( -Ve) and that would cause the sparks.

Unless ive read your bit wrong that is ....?

[stevieboy]

Hi Red, everything is ok except that after the sparks i no longer have an ignition light, can you give any advice on which circuit to track, or have i simply blew my clocks away.

[red5]

ouch -

No ideas on that one pal If like you say you have defo checked your Ig bulb ( they are rated at@2.6-6v so a big earth of 12v would kill them ) and connectors , im sorry but ive no other ideas on that .

Have you checked for a fused PCB? - which you could bridge , not an easy option but cheap and effective.

[sspogman]

Are you sure that you had illumination before it touched?

Reason I ask is that I also had no illumination initially, then discovered that there is a small blanking plate on UK spec where the rheostat goes on import models that needs to be used to make the circuit. If you didn't take this out of your donor (just to the right of the steering wheel IIRC) then you can get around it by using a piece of wire that can be soldered in to place.

[stevieboy]

Had lights lit before shortout, engine still turns over but no lights on first key turn

[stevieboy]

purchased some wheels today, ET 18 ...16" rims 10 spoke, for you guys that have already been past the issue of spacers, do i need any or will the minor indifference mean i get away without them.
Steve

[John B]

To say I'm confused when it comes to wheels and ET's is a understatement!!! After speaking with Stuart at MEV last week he said I should be aiming for an ET of 0 although out by a few mm won't make a difference. This seems rather different to the build guide which states, (if memory serves) the stays are designed to take a 16" rim ET 15 or ET 45 with a 32mm spacer.
If anybody can clarify that would be great. My wheels are ET 30.

[Stewart]

You need your wheels to have as small an offset as possible.
If you draw a line through the centre of the wheel (centreline), the offset is how far in (towards the car - negative) or out (towards the wheel face - positive) the mounting face of the wheel is.

With the design of the wheel arch brackets, you need the mounting face of the wheel to be as close to the centreline of the wheel as possible. Which means fitting a 25-35mm spacers on an ET45 offset wheel.
If you've got ET30 wheels, then ideally you want to stick 30mm spacers on, but the best way to judge would be to actually fit the wheel onto the hub and eye up how far they need to be pushed out.

Does this pic help explain the offset question?

[John B]

Picture helps, cheers pal. Guess I'll just have to wait until I get to that stage.
Thanks.

[bigverns5]

Mar 29, 2012 6:52:33 GMT Stewart said:

You need your wheels to have as small an offset as possible.

With the design of the wheel arch brackets, you need the mounting face of the wheel to be as close to the centreline of the wheel as possible. Which means fitting a 25-35mm spacers on an ET45 offset wheel.
If you've got ET30 wheels, then ideally you want to stick 30mm spacers on, but the best way to judge would be to actually fit the wheel onto the hub and eye up how far they need to be pushed out.
quote]

I don't get this. Why design a car that uses the Mazda running gear then mess up its excellent suspension geometry by moving the wheel offset rather than design a wheel arch mounting to use the wheels in there proper position. (this is not a good engineering solution). Just seems a bit half assed to me.
I shall be redesigning the arch mounting or even the arches themselves to avoid the use of spacers.

BV.