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Post by adam1001 on Nov 30, 2011 9:22:35 GMT
Or scratched? The PPF seems to be a remarkably sensitive piece of metal.
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Post by adam1001 on Nov 30, 2011 16:12:25 GMT
By a complete stroke of luck I was in Bicester today and while I was on the way over there I got a text to say Mazdaman (in Bicester) might be able to help. I called and sure enough they had a PPF. I got it for a good price and they were a couple of really nice blokes - clearly in it for enthusiasm more than the money. They race an MX-5 and know someone with an Exocet. So I'm back on track again.
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Post by adam1001 on Dec 6, 2011 20:28:17 GMT
Things have slowed down over the last few days as I've been busy with work. My tools arrived last week but I've only got round to using them today. I have to say the impact wrench is amazing and has saved a lot of time and energy already. Can't recommend it enough. I was hoping to have the garage clean and tidy for the kit (I'm collecting it from MEV tomorrow) but it's far from. I spent some time today breaking things down further - the front subframe is now bare, the front lower wishbones are bare and the front upper wishbones need splitting from the hubs (I need to buy a splitter). One shock came undone fine, but the other was a complete nightmare - in the end I had to angle grind through the bush and bolt as they'd rusted themselves together. Both have done this on the back so it's going to be the same procedure. The whole house smells of burnt rubber tonight! Very excited about collecting the kit tomorrow! Time to tidy the garage.
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Post by adam1001 on Dec 12, 2011 15:48:46 GMT
Well the garage didn't get tidied but the kit got collected! I picked up a brand new Fiat van with 3 miles on the clock and headed for MEV. The workshop was full of kits waiting to be collected including mine on a trolley by the door. Stuart and Julie kindly packed the van with expert precision and after a chat, a few questions and sitting in Julie's car to see what it actually felt like, I headed back home. I was hoping to up-end the frame and stick it in the corner of the garage but it was a bit tall, so it's now on its side taking up rather too much space. I was planning to take the shell to the scrapyard in the van but in the end I got short of time and also didn't want to mess up the brand new van too much so I gave up. Hoping to get the chassis bits apart and off to the powder-coater this week if I get time. I also need to remove the bushes, which I might get done to save time.
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Post by Stewart on Dec 12, 2011 15:57:26 GMT
I ended up paying a local garage £40 to get all the bushes out of the wishbones and droplinks. I tried myself but after busting the vice after only having done 4 I thought the money was either going to be spent on a proper press or get someone to sort them. He had them done in about an hour with his oxy torch and press He did manage to snap one of the caliper lug mounts from the hub trying to press out the driveshaft!
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Post by adam1001 on Jan 23, 2012 0:39:16 GMT
So finally things are moving again. The shell's gone (I only managed a tenner for it, but scrap prices have fallen and I had no choice but to have it collected in the end), sales of bits are slowly picking up and most importantly I've got back down to stripping again. My friend Paul was over today (who, as luck would have it, used to work for Renault F1 so has some idea about what he's doing). The front subframe is stripped down to components, and just waiting for me to get all the bushes out. The rear subframe was quite badly seized together, and took several hours today to strip. Both lower wishbone to hub bolts had to be hammered to destruction and cut, and both rear shock bushes have completely seized onto the bolts. One of the fronts was seized and I managed to cut the bolt out with the angle grinder, but no such luck with the back as there's not enough clearance. We had to drill the base of the shock before attacking it with a chisel to remove the outer ring. Having then done the same thing with the inner ring, the rubber had to be burnt off, but I'm still left with the bolt and seized inner bush tube. Current plan is to heat it with a blowtorch, then grip it with mole grips while trying to loosen the bolt. Additionally the captive nut has come free on both, so it's all a bit of a mess. Any tips gratefully received on this! I also need to get a new blowtorch as the one I got from Screwfix a couple of days ago (extraordinarily bad customer service) keeps going out of its own accord. My bushes have arrived from Freakyparts and look good, I've also taken delivery of some TA Technix shocks (plan is to see how they are and go from there), and a 4-2-1 downpipe. Need to place an order for lots of replacement wishbone bolts tomorrow!
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Post by adam1001 on Feb 23, 2012 23:59:57 GMT
Progress has been rather slow, mostly held up by the horrible wishbones. In the end I had to cut the rear shock bolts and inner bush insert (which were rusted together) with a hacksaw. It was a long and painful task which required two cuts to each bolt/insert and then a lot of hammer, chisel and mole grips, but finally it all came apart. Then I was faced with the task of re-attaching the captive nuts which I eventually took to a local welder. After a lot of head-scratching he advised cutting the wishbones open, but I managed to persuade him it was easier to weld a bit onto the nut, then hold it in place while putting a bolt through, then welding it. Worked a treat apart from the second one which I only realised was welded crooked when I got home. I finally took it back today and he re-welded it without any problems. Then there was the bushes - several hours with a blowtorch, melted rubber everywhere, a nut and bolt device to help hammer them out and lots of toxic fumes. But all 28 of them are out now. And here's what I'm left with: Taking this lot to be blasted/powder-coated tomorrow. I've also tidied up the garage, so next tasks are to clean the hubs, prop, diff, engine, PPF, driveshafts and any other bits I can't remember. Then convert the steering rack by which time the powder coating should be done and I can start putting everything back together. I'm leaving the engine and box assembled, the only thing I need to do is replace the cam angle sensor gasket. Is it worth changing the cambelt while it's out? It'd be a no-brainer on an interference engine, but I don't know whether it's worth the hassle...
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 24, 2012 5:57:53 GMT
I would replace the TB and water pump, cam and crank seals while in there too.. If you haven't already check out www.miata.net in the garage section there is info on TB change.. see you have the LNC engine that's one thing you don't have to worry about.. also if you do change TB do replace the large crank bolt.. good luck and have fun with your build..
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Post by Stewart on Feb 24, 2012 14:49:33 GMT
I got an impact gun on the bottom bolts, lots of heat and whacking finally shifted it, but it wasn't fun. Do as much to the engine as you can while it's out and easily accesable. I did the rear crank oil seal as well as they're prone to leak and means spliting the box from the engine to sort it. hell of a lot easier on the garage floor, and it's only about £20.00. The timing belt is very straight forward on the MX5. Whip the covers off, take the rocker off, mark the cam positions in relation to TDC, whip the bottom pulley off (impact gun again) and slacken the belt off. Like gwnwar said, do the water pump at the same time, as it's only 3 more bolts. Stick the new belt on and reassemble. New rocker gasket if you like too.
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Post by bauer on Feb 25, 2012 5:44:13 GMT
whip the bottom pulley off (impact gun again) Hi guys. 1st post here so pardon me for butting in. I am a mechanic and MX5 owner so wanted to give a bit of advice. Hope you dont mind. I wouldnt use an impact gun on the bottom pulley. The crankshaft has been known to fail in the keyway, sometimes it can be 10-20000kms after the belt has been changed and if it fails it means a new crankshaft. Banging on the bolt with an impact gun can cause this weakness so I would suggest buying a tool to hold the crankshaft when you 'crack' the bolt with a socket and bar or do what I did for my first TB change and make a tool. Pic attached and you can see I simply cut out a scallop the shape of the crank out of a length of angle iron and drilled 2 holes and bolted this back on to be able to hold the crank. It is the 1.6l motor that is the most at risk of rattling off the bolt but suggestion is to do this on all engines.
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Post by adam1001 on Mar 8, 2012 21:37:57 GMT
I'm making progress. All the bits are back from the powder coater (£260 for blasting and coating) and I found a local guy who pressed all the bushes in for me. I've been up there three times so far (forgot the diff the first time, then forgot the two rear hubs the second time) and that's all done now apart from the bits which the other half of the diff bushes go into which I can't find anywhere. I'm sure they'll appear at some point. I've cleaned various bits and pieces: the rear diff's nearly ready to paint and I've cleaned up the PPF. Wondering whether to paint it, probably a good idea as it's already corroding just sitting in the garage. I've almost finished the steering rack as well - all cleaned, painted, greased and re-assembled save tightening and torqueing. Only one issue, the aluminium plug kit I got from miataroadster contains one plug which is wrong for my rack so I've asked for another one. Worth checking if you're getting these yourself. One tip for the rack - you only need to take off one inner track-rod joint. They've got a nasty bit of folded metal to lock them which if you can avoid undoing is a bonus, and there's not really any advantage in undoing both. See my photos which make this a little clearer. 22 years of use... Collar removed - angle grinder and then chisel worked a treat All the bits Cleaned and alloy plugs inserted More alloy plugs This is the end you can leave intact
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Post by adam1001 on Mar 15, 2012 21:51:59 GMT
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Post by adam1001 on Mar 19, 2012 0:24:22 GMT
Made good progress this weekend. Saturday I got the first silver coat on the diff (just needs one more now) and today my friend Paul came over. We ceremonially unwrapped the chassis and spent a few hours fitting the floors. It was all pretty easy, and I followed previous advice on the forum to count the rivets (90 in all, we'd marked it up for 92). We managed to economise with a couple of 120mm centres so all good. The adhesive splurged out a bit but I managed to clean it up in all the visible areas. Can anyone give me a rough idea of the front and rear overhang I need on the brake and fuel pipes please? Paul marking out the floor (maybe there's an easier way...) Smoothing the edges (yep, kitchen table) First half in place, second half being marked Only realised today I'd got white adhesive. Oops...
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Post by adam1001 on Mar 27, 2012 21:54:35 GMT
Over the last couple of days I've been cleaning and painting. The diff is finished, drive shafts are all cleaned and painted, the diff support brackets are de-rubbered and painted, I've done my best to clean up the cat replacement section and I've removed the air con and PAS brackets and exhaust heat shield from the engine. Just got the uprights, callipers and engine/box to clean now. Also been spending lots of money. I've bought: Acewell digi dash MK2 electronic speedo sender Savage hazard and fog switches CV boot Pipercross induction kit A set of camber bolts, lower shock bolts and rear lower wishbone to hub bolts Brake pipe and P-Clips Rivnuts tool A helmet for my son!
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Post by adam1001 on Mar 29, 2012 21:32:31 GMT
The lovely new camber and shock bolts arrived today. And here's a pic of one of the old ones. You can see why they redesigned them.
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