|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 21, 2012 22:04:12 GMT
Today more test runs heating up the engine and checking how the cooling system holds. Looks like cooling is sufficient and I do not have to place a swirlpot and expansion at the top back. All farts and spitting went very nice and decent into the expansion bottle. For the moment with these results I do not agree with Anglais.... Looks like the cooling systems is OK. On of the last test runs: Each time, when cooling down the amount sucked up cooling liquid became less and less. Also the time needed to heat up takes longer. Rear end is finished. It looks and is very clean and smooth. At 105 degrees Celcius the fan kicks in.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2012 16:26:07 GMT
Looking good mate
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2012 10:11:43 GMT
I know my radiator fan switch isn't working properly so I cant rely on it. My readings on test this week were at 80C on my R1 gauge it was showing 220F on my aftermarket one.
The aftermarket sender is up near the thermostat so this was reading 220F which equates to 105C
But on the radiator sender it was showing 80C so not gonna know for sure till the trike gets a good run.
Sent from my LT26i using ProBoards
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 26, 2012 11:41:12 GMT
BTW: An increased (about > 2000rpm) idle rev speed also activates the fan.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2012 12:04:53 GMT
I may look at replacing the Fan Switch, I have seen a few for £20 so might look at this, not sure how to test mine, I assume its a case of heating to 105C to see if it opens a connection, I know at RTR my radiator sender showed 118C and cooked :-(
May look at a super size 2 speed after market fan if I experience severe overheating
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 26, 2012 16:31:42 GMT
When removing the sensor you can submerge it into a cup of boiling water. Then the dashboard should read about 100 degrees.
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 27, 2012 17:20:30 GMT
Today connected the alarm indicator switch. Standard switch needed some modification before working properly. After that I could close the central tunnel and mount the chairs and seat belts in. Made a bracket to hold the plate for the bombines: Installed an air force kill switch: ( I always wanted to have a air force kill switch...)
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 27, 2012 17:22:36 GMT
Left to do: Removing air from the brake lines. Find out why engine is cut off when leaving neutral gear. Fit the nose back on and mount mirrors. Make a way to extra fix the nose.
|
|
|
Post by erik on Apr 27, 2012 18:01:58 GMT
Find out why engine is cut off when leaving neutral gear. Parking standard down. I had this on the 500m testdrive of my R1
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 28, 2012 19:20:57 GMT
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 28, 2012 19:26:22 GMT
I have placed each wheel on a scale: Rear wheel: 142,4 kg Left front wheel: 107,9 kg (steering wheel side) Right front wheel: 106,7 kg (passenger side, with battery and electronics) Total of 357 kg
Sitting position and ergonomics is very good.
Left to do: - Finding out why the engine is cut off when putting into gear. - Bulk head is resonating. Will put some rubber in between. - Raising head lights? My indicators are 6 cm to low. Will make some bracket. - Passenger foot rest. - Arranging transport to RTR for msva
|
|
|
Post by airforceone on Apr 28, 2012 19:48:47 GMT
Build looks good.
How did you fit the indicators to the headlights, does the front of the headlight twist off.
Ned
|
|
|
Post by erik on Apr 28, 2012 20:17:37 GMT
nice!! I am not sure if you need to raise the indicators. They have been approved before and RDW doesn't recheck the car (as I have been told), only paperwork. I am not sure if it is street legal to mount indicators on the bulkhead which shine forwards and to the rear. this might solve this issue...
grtz! Erik
|
|
|
Post by edwinwl on Apr 28, 2012 20:55:50 GMT
Front indicators need to be raised by about 6 cm to have a 80 degrees free outside view. (UK & Dutch legislation)
Headlights can be taken apart there is plenty of room inside the housing. I drilled a hole and mounted the indicators.
|
|
|
Post by slugshot on Apr 28, 2012 21:41:24 GMT
Hi edwinwl, you have done a very nice job building your tR1ke, I don't think you will have any problem regarding the msva,even if there was any issue's that cannot be put right first time.going by the rockets that rtr tested recently it can be re tested quite quickly. Mind you if you don't sort out your stalling when engaging gear you will not be taking it, so lock your self in your garage turn your phone off and get it done.
|
|