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Post by R2S on Mar 30, 2014 15:11:33 GMT
If only I was this far on! Once i got body off i found just how bad things were, all the front plastic covers on engine had been cracked at bolt holes, powered steering rack and pump in a right state but as i am depowering doesn't really matter. Front subframe not too bad as oil leaks had kept well lubricated but back frame needs quite a bit of attention.
I note your position of fusebox and use of Mazda under tray, neat.
Does standard air box fit under body work? and what is plan for wiring strapped to chassis in bottom picture is this final position?
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Post by R2S on Mar 27, 2014 22:12:57 GMT
This was where i found out the 185s i was planning to fit weren't ideal as my wheels are 7j, was therefore looking to 195 80 15 but discovered Vredestein don't do the classic in this size and their 205 is a 70 profile and over £200!
Need to sort the suspension, set of Spax RSX suspension kit is looking favourite at moment as everything is matched and there is £165off at moment, first to establish clearance within arches but i'd still like to go as high profile as poss on the tyres for the 50s look (up side will be any stiffness resulting from suspension drop should be offset by more tyre wall to flex)!
Done loads more reading today, including the car bible, and common thread seems to be buy a matched set hence arrival at the Spax set up, haven't ordered anything yet though.
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Post by R2S on Mar 27, 2014 21:06:46 GMT
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Post by R2S on Mar 27, 2014 6:51:31 GMT
gwnwar
Thanks for the link, its the first time i've seen a bush kit going from 90 to 05, to date the ones i've seen advertised are up to 97!
The planned 35mm drop is based on advice from John who has the Replicar in South Africa and i think Snowbird1 is looking for a similar drop.
In order to get the 50s look (I have the 15" x 7j wires from MEV) i was proposing to go to standard, 80, profile tyres (205 80 15) which will lift the car some way above standard so a 'drop' is a must and may well need to be even more than 35mm.
Car will be used for touring, around UK and Europe (still trying to work out where to store anything more than a toothbrush and carry a spare wheel) accordingly i am looking for compliant ride.
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Post by R2S on Mar 25, 2014 18:19:16 GMT
Just spent the afternoon reading up on suspension for MX5s and am now doing an impersonation of the bird that flies in ever decreasing circles until it disappears up its own xrse, there is so much info!
Looking for some guidance on Shocks, Springs and Bushes of which there are hundreds advertised on the internet.
Donor front shocks have had it so at the very least these will need replacing and as such it would seem sensible to replace all four, what with?
In the case of the springs i want to lower the car by at least 35mm (the fact that i am going quite high on tyre profiles means very likely car won't actually be lowered 35mm indeed it may well be higher!) but i don't want to turn the thing into a roller slate with rock hard suspension.
Bearing in mind everything is being stripped it would be sensible to replace ALL bushes but up to now i can't find a full kit for my 1998 MK2 set up (but strangely they are available for MK1's).
All thoughts, experience, guidance welcome.
I don't have an unlimited budget but neither to i want to cut corners.
R2S
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Post by R2S on Mar 25, 2014 9:20:37 GMT
Couldn't wait any longer had to test my paint sample so decided to give the bonnet a quick blast over. Close up using flash. Contrast to gel coat Colour changes dramatically when viewed from varying angles, looks quite dark in picture below which suggests it will be perfect for all the various curves. Anyone wondering whats going on at the front - creating a one off grill and the bead used to establish curve of central 'beam'.
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Post by R2S on Mar 18, 2014 8:15:30 GMT
gwnar, had a look at the heater, as you say a bit pricey, and you get stung again with taxes when importing from US (been stung three times now you'd think i'd know better). Had a look on UK sites, Europa etc, and there are similar products (there is even an electrically powered one referred to as a back seat heater which does away with need for any plumbing and could be located adjacent to driver on the reoplicar side shelf) available so as you say may be a good idea.
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Post by R2S on Mar 17, 2014 23:46:30 GMT
No new work to report but have today placed order for my seats (a bit ahead of myself i know but thought i should get in early).
Bearing in mind the cabin exposure and lack of heating I am looking to install heated panels in the seats, those from Rimmer Bros, £99 for two seats, look favourite as ones from seat manufacturers are £200 a seat! Anyone else used these kits?
The firm building the seats have created a jig for IVA seats specifically for the Replicar (Stuart got in there first), they are wider than their Cobra (of which they sell quite a number) seats and shaped to fit the cxckpit, of the Replicar, assume these will be on view in the Red body when it appears at shows. (I note Stuart has added a photo of the seats to the Replicar build blog, squab looks narrower in photo than it is, the seats are 2" wider than the Cobra ones they are based on)
They do quite a lot of kit work and had an interior for a Hawk HF3000 Stratos on the bench when i arrived.
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Post by R2S on Mar 17, 2014 23:36:04 GMT
Might be simpler to install the abs system and if it works ok with the new rolling diameter keep if not simply remove fuse?
Will probably use donor wheels for IVA so abs should work fine.
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Post by R2S on Mar 10, 2014 18:55:30 GMT
I planning to remove the ABS from my Mk2 1800 donor when building my Replicar but need some guidance.
Anyone know how to do this, I assume I'll need a balance valve for the front brakes?
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Post by R2S on Mar 9, 2014 18:39:25 GMT
Thanks Shaun, just reading your thread and starting to worry as my donor was also fitted with an after market alarm. One of the reasons i took so long in stripping down was to try and make sure i kept a clear log of where it was connected.
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Post by R2S on Mar 9, 2014 12:30:59 GMT
First major milestone achieved some six months later than expected.
Body and running gear have now parted.
Working on my own, biggest problem was putting tower scaffold together; would have made a great 'you've been framed' video as base kept rolling away when i tried to lift in upper pieces, I need a labourer!
Used two chains one for lifting, from front right drivers seat bolt to rear left hand passenger and another as safety from drivers rear left hand to passengers right front. As per experience of others car does seem to balance about this point once you have removed the last two exhaust hangers. Failure to do this resulted in back 'sitting down' until i realised that exhaust was mounted from body and not subframe at this point. Once rubbers cut off it was a piece of cake to raise body and roll subframe out.
Let work begin.
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Post by R2S on Mar 8, 2014 16:48:08 GMT
I now understand (I think) how you are placing filler, assume it is going behind a hinged panel on he vertical face of the hump? What about having a head rest on the front of the hump which is hinged at top (hinge hidden behind leather/vinyl) that lifts up?
Cant believe the weld on the exhaust doesn't leak looks like an aero bar!
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Post by R2S on Mar 3, 2014 16:44:28 GMT
Just seen the pictures of the revised rear end of the red body shell (on piston heads) which is 100% better than the one i have..................bugger!
Any chance of a body swap Stuart? I haven't touched mine yet.
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Post by R2S on Feb 28, 2014 18:09:49 GMT
Almost got the body off, just the rear subframe bolts to remove, oh and pedals, and then ready to lift body off (front end body and subframe already separated), had a break at lunch and went to look at some 1930/40 MG's (2 MG Ms and a later MG C {I think}) and american pickups that a local guy has restored, stayed there for longer than expected hence a few jobs to complete rather than having body off today.
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