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Post by p2tav on Sept 3, 2018 11:36:19 GMT
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Post by mprmurray on Sept 17, 2018 20:34:27 GMT
Great thread and love the colour. Just started stripping a 2003 model and so have been following this with interest over the past few months as I planned my build. What is the RAL colour for the body panels?
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avi
Newbie
Preparing to strip
Posts: 11
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Post by avi on Sept 18, 2018 6:58:15 GMT
Great thread and love the colour. Just started stripping a 2003 model and so have been following this with interest over the past few months as I planned my build. What is the RAL colour for the body panels? 7043 I believe. Same as mine 😎
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Post by p2tav on Sept 20, 2018 15:40:43 GMT
Great thread and love the colour. Just started stripping a 2003 model and so have been following this with interest over the past few months as I planned my build. What is the RAL colour for the body panels? 7043 I believe. Same as mine 😎 im sure that's the correct RAL Stuart will be the best person to confirm it. thanks for the good feedback. im planning to get the side panels fitted next and then the handbrake cover. don't forget the front spacers if ur using the vvti engine so you don't have to cut bonnet. let me know if you need any help cheers paul.
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Post by p2tav on Sept 21, 2018 13:20:32 GMT
well today I have focused on finishing my wheel stays as I cut them to allow me to extend them and make them longer to cover all the wheel and give full support to my wheel wings. I have made them 230mm long and 27mm above the tyre to allow for any stone pick up and the wiring for the G type lights. I am pleased with the outcome and just got to paint them before I fit the wheel wings. I will now have to read up on the positioning to make sure I get them in the right place. now to the side panels.
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Post by davidc on Sept 23, 2018 23:25:34 GMT
Hi mate, great build diary, I think we are roughly around the same phase of build, I can drive mine up and down the road cheekily when noones looking and I need to "turn it round and pop it back in the garage" .. My problems now are all bodywork based.. Bonnet and rear cover fitments, wing stays and interior.. How in Gods name do you make these bonnets fit the mk 2.5 engine without taking a saw to the fibreglass? Any help very much appreciated..
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Post by p2tav on Sept 24, 2018 8:52:05 GMT
Hi mate, great build diary, I think we are roughly around the same phase of build, I can drive mine up and down the road cheekily when noones looking and I need to "turn it round and pop it back in the garage" .. My problems now are all bodywork based.. Bonnet and rear cover fitments, wing stays and interior.. How in Gods name do you make these bonnets fit the mk 2.5 engine without taking a saw to the fibreglass? Any help very much appreciated.. hi david, its not easy I have done a few things to help with the vvti engine and the g type wings with the lights built in. 1, I made some spacers to fit under the front mounts about 30mm in size (made from alloy)which drops the engine enough to fit the bonnet without cutting it and does not effect any of the other parts. 2, I extended the wing stays to allow a decent size gap between the tyre and the wing (25mm), firstly to allow for stone pick up and then for the cable for the lights. 3, the rear cover was a nightmare for me as I was not comfortable with modifying the tank so the filler came up the back of the driver and with the G Type rear cover it did not work without completely butchering it. I decided that if im going to spend all this money it would make sense to get a tank made that allows me to get it to fit with just cutting a panel out of the rear. this has worked perfectly and cost around £250 and still uses the original pump and sender unit. I have now been able to put the filler on the side (see picture on build) which is near the rear of the car for easy filling no brainer for me. I do believe that Stuart has moved the rear bars on the chassis to the outside now to allow more room but mine does not have this mod. I have not fitted bonnet yet but I have put it on and it does clear the vvti, still a lot of work to do with regards the radiator and alignment as it still does not drop straight on but I get the impression that is the same as all the other builds. the main thing is now the vvti is not the issue. hope this helps, regards paul
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Post by davidc on Oct 7, 2018 22:06:35 GMT
Oh my God.. So, bonnet scoop it is then - sounds way easier..
There is no way I fancy doing all that spacer under mount stuff fella, is there no way to just raise the bonnet a little? I am not using the original rads, got a new sport one and my model is not the front with evil looking grill, its the standard older one.. Make any difference you think?
Also is there a regulation on distance between tyres and wing stays?
D
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Post by davidc on Oct 7, 2018 22:10:08 GMT
PS gonna just get 4 over center latches (you can get IVA approved ones) and stick the filler in top of rear cover with a flush fitting cap.
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Post by jason82 on Oct 8, 2018 6:48:36 GMT
I have the same tank fitment issues. The kit is mk1 based, but the tags are welded on in the position that only fits the tank mounts if the tank was turned 180 degrees to the normal mk1 fitment, which was not how it states in the build guide. When it gets turned like this ( with the filler now on the driver side) it's a really tight bend for the filler into the tank. I want to fit my tank with the filler on the passenger side (as per build guide mk1 donor), but the tags now need cutting off & re -positioning, & in a lower position. It pushes you towards the custom tank direction to get a proper fitment, but I have been forced to do a full engine rebuild, so cash is strapped. The early chassis fuel tank mount was level with the rear rails that mount to the rear diff cage, so I don't know why the tank mounts are now raised and in odd positions. I think that the rear bodywork is slightly narrower as well, as I said before to David, you kind of need to get the flashing trimmed around the tank to get a nice fit. Issue being, cut too much & the tank leaks.
I suppose if you flushed your tank out thoroughly enough, you could cut the filler pipe, & mount it on the tank wherever you wanted to. On the Haynes roadster forum, we used to have a custom tank fabricator that makes mx5 tanks from ally. I will try & track him down & put his details on the for sale section. I had one of his ranks before, & they were beautiful. Regarding the bonnet fitment, is it touching the the corner of the intake ? If so, I have seen people cut the corner off it for clearance. Also, the manufacturer reccomended using the boot rubber to go around the outside of the bonnet as a knock on trim. This thing is massive, and should give you clearence. I have to be honest though, it's not going to look pretty, & another scoop on the bonnet will look odd. If you use Paul's spacer idea, boot trim & cut corner off the intake & it's still not working, you can get a universal bonnet bulge, which you then cut the bodywork, & fibre glass it in. Try contacting the manufacturer, there are enough of you vvt boys building now, especially as mk1s become more rare, maybe they will offer you a bonnet that will fit your engine, to save the hassle of trying to force something to fit ?
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Post by jason82 on Oct 8, 2018 6:56:45 GMT
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Post by p2tav on Oct 8, 2018 8:46:59 GMT
Oh my God.. So, bonnet scoop it is then - sounds way easier.. There is no way I fancy doing all that spacer under mount stuff fella, is there no way to just raise the bonnet a little? I am not using the original rads, got a new sport one and my model is not the front with evil looking grill, its the standard older one.. Make any difference you think? Also is there a regulation on distance between tyres and wing stays? D hi D, the bonnet issue is where the vvti valve hits the bonnet. its not in an area which is good for a scoop or that's what I found ?, as for the wheel stays I don't think there is any regulation for iva I just don't want any stone pick up to crack the wings or bend the mounts. u have also to think about the indicators mounted in the wings and the cable to them that is why I decided to raise them. this is just my way of resolving what I think might be an issue it might be fine as they are I just thought while ive got the opportunity I would address what I believe might become a problem. cheers, paul
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Post by p2tav on Oct 8, 2018 8:54:47 GMT
Gents,
where are people sticking the brake fluid dot4 sticker for iva when it has to be within 100mm of the reservoir???
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Post by bewgy on Oct 8, 2018 10:05:21 GMT
Paul,
Is it not written on the reservoir cap? if not you could by a new cap.
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Post by p2tav on Oct 8, 2018 10:11:21 GMT
Paul, Is it not written on the reservoir cap? if not you could by a new cap. hi buddy it is written on the cap but as I read the iva manual it says the yellow sticker must be present ? or am I just reading it wrong ? cheers
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