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Post by kingofthetwisties on Aug 16, 2014 13:55:17 GMT
Hi Ross
Floor pan looks great. This looks like it will be a great build.
I'll keep an eye on this as I'm sure I'll be able to get a tip or two from you.
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Post by rossco on Aug 27, 2014 16:31:40 GMT
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Post by mawdo81 on Mar 8, 2015 17:18:13 GMT
Hi, How's it going? Have you fitted the engine yet?
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Post by Fin on Oct 10, 2016 10:46:10 GMT
If, when tight, the required thread does not protrude it will fail IVA and, more importantly, be prone to coming loose thus being a safety concern. Is there a maximum the thread can protrude past the nut?
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Post by carlyd on Oct 10, 2016 15:40:02 GMT
If, when tight, the required thread does not protrude it will fail IVA and, more importantly, be prone to coming loose thus being a safety concern. Is there a maximum the thread can protrude past the nut? The examiner of my IVA never even looked at the steering column. I have read there is supposed to be 2 threads visible after a locking nut but as I said my guy never checked any nuts for threads showing.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 10, 2016 18:52:03 GMT
If, when tight, the required thread does not protrude it will fail IVA and, more importantly, be prone to coming loose thus being a safety concern. Is there a maximum the thread can protrude past the nut? I wouldn't think so, I can think of no technical reason.
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Post by Fin on Oct 10, 2016 19:02:58 GMT
Is there a maximum the thread can protrude past the nut? I wouldn't think so, I can think of no technical reason. Thanks. I "acquired" several sets of new Pearl PSAB wishbone bolts with nylocks, and they are a coarser thread and slightly longer than the ones from my donor. These look better, against the powder-coated control arms, but protrude past the nut by maybe 15mm. Would like to use them, but thought I'd read of problems somewhere in a Castle Nut v Nylock discussion.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 10, 2016 20:58:35 GMT
The first thing you need to check is that the grade is correct, I've never heard of "wishbone bolts" the name does not necessarily mean they are designed for vehicle wishbones.
This is a contentious point but in NZ a higher grade is not always a good thing as far as certification goes. For bolts subjected to cyclic loading we cannot use g12.9 (the common socket head bolts) we can use g8.8 minimum and g10.9 maximum. However whatever you are allowed to use in the UK I suspect there must be a head marking to confirm the grade.
If you want to have the best looking you cant beat stainless in my opinion.
As for the length, you can always cut them down but this does make the exposed ends subject to corrosion, unless they are stainless of coarse.
Whilst leaving more than the minimum threads through a nylok is a requirement having too much sticking out looks ugly, I personally wouldn't leave more than around 10mm (ideally less) sticking through if the bolt was in a visible location.
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Post by jacksdad on Oct 10, 2016 21:24:33 GMT
Also if it's a nut that's going to need a plastic cover for IVA then it's a problem if the bolts to long
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 10, 2016 23:28:06 GMT
Would like to use them, but thought I'd read of problems somewhere in a Castle Nut v Nylock discussion. Not sure what you mean here. Castle nuts are way better than nylocks but using them everywhere would be a pain. One great thing about castle nuts is that they dont rely on torque to hold them in position and when the pin is put through they cant move at all. So in the case of the front wheel bearing in the Rocket they are essential, tighten until the play is just taken out and then pin them. I also used castle nuts on my RD uprights, mainly because there were a couple of instances of these coming apart and one report was one too many.
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Post by pocketrocket on Oct 11, 2016 0:17:26 GMT
What model/year of car is your steering column assembly from? Is it height & reach adjustable?
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Post by mawdo81 on Oct 11, 2016 7:23:11 GMT
No idea but the Mk1 Focus is height & reach adjustable and that's what I'm using
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