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Post by R2S on Jun 18, 2016 21:29:16 GMT
Day and a half on the Dales Road trip so no build up date this week, kits on the run were Rockets, Exocet, Mevster and Sonics (one of which was attacked by a van whilst parked in Lancaster Services). Unfortunately no Replicars on the trip which started in the Peak National Park, yesterday, Cumbria today (I had to leave early), and Yorkshire Dales tomorrow, no excuses next years though at least one of us in the NW should have completed a build (Westie66 my money is on you).
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Post by p5curly on Jun 19, 2016 18:57:09 GMT
Top weekend me and Dave will have to come and check out your build in the flesh
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Post by john on Jun 20, 2016 17:14:00 GMT
Sorry just got your message, hope doing OK mate.
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Post by R2S on Jun 24, 2016 16:25:32 GMT
After last weeks jolly around the NW back on the car today, HeliCoil fitted to the calliper and callipers fitted both sides, as I was doing this I recalled the conversation I had with Westie66 on Sunday about the amount of thread required to protrude for IVA. Why did this spring to mind? Well take a look at the front bottom ball joint bolt, these were fitted as supplied from MX5parts complete with new washers. Drivers side Passenger side I'm assuming this would be a fail? Passenger side shows best that thread does not protrude at all beyond the nyloc.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2016 16:36:28 GMT
I am sure the original bolt does not use washers, it also looks like the bolt in your suspension with the flared base (no idea of the correct name). I was able to re-use the original bolts and they look very different. I would be tempted to send those back and get down my local Mazda dealer for original replacements.
Looks like your thread is not even engaging the nylon part of the nut, defo IVA fail :-(
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Post by R2S on Jun 24, 2016 16:51:35 GMT
Just had a look in the build manual and whilst its not clear what type of washer (looks like a spring washer in the picture) it shows a washer on the nut side, but no washer on the bolt head. As luck would have it I have two spring washers spare (from shocks) so I'll take the washers in the picture off and replace on one side with the spring.
Interestingly the bolt nut and washers came with the lower ball joint, which also had a castle nut (couldn't use that either as it wasnt tall enough to catch the split pin). Rather than use a washer under the new castle nut (gwnwar) I've used the original nuts.
Started me off looking at other bolts and low and behold there are quite a few (all supplied via MX5 parts) where the amount of showing thread is marginal (albeit all the others do project).
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 24, 2016 21:23:38 GMT
Rule of thumb 2 threads showing out of nut.. Yes you do want the split washer under nut. OEM bolt has collar.. I don't like nylon nuts on anything were my butt might be put in danger of it not holding.. In your pic of ball joint nut, split pin is not down in slot of nut.. I would put it in 90 deg from what you have and fold over top and down the nut.. Might nip the length a bit of that going down leg..
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Post by p5curly on Jun 25, 2016 8:47:53 GMT
Looks good
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Post by R2S on Jun 29, 2016 12:39:51 GMT
Lower Ball Joint Bolt Slightly embarrassing but a quick check of my original invoice gave me the part number so I did an internet search and came across the picture above. Basically Id put both washers on either end of the longer bolt (why-because the head of the original bolt had the wider base than the hex head ~ hope that makes sense ). But what this also means is that I didn't put a washer under the head of the shorter bolt ~ because there wasn't one on the bolt I removed. The long and short (no pun intended) of all of this is that even with one washer removed there still won't be enough thread showing to pass IVA so new bolts are to be ordered.
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 29, 2016 21:00:04 GMT
Do you still have the original bolt and nut.. If so a wire wheel and a shot of paint from a rattle can it would look new. If getting a new bolt make sure it is graded.
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Post by R2S on Jun 29, 2016 22:59:43 GMT
Genuine nuts and bolts ordered from MX5 parts, double checked and if you look at the photos I did put a washer under the short bolt so kits must have come with three washers!
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Post by R2S on Aug 27, 2016 15:33:31 GMT
Well after a long holiday its back to thinking (still cant do anything broken finger) about the build.
Question to my fellow Replicar builders.
I like the lines of the kit but would also like to have the peace of mind of a roll bar in the event of me being a total idiot. Whilst spending many hours thinking about twin hoops (a la Cobra) and M hoops I suddenly thought about pop up roll bars, the type fitted to most modern convertibles. Peugeot ones look the part, a large diameter chrome hoop is just visible above the seat line until activated and then then raise about 300mm. Problem with the peugeot ones though are they are like an airbag and once deployed not reusable where as all the others, BMW, Saab, Audi, are spring loaded and can be reset but they look pretty naff.
Anyone else consider these?
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 28, 2016 21:23:02 GMT
It would be different.. Look at the one on the Mercedes CLK 320 '98/'01 They can be moved up/down with switch and also pop up in accident..
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Post by R2S on Aug 29, 2016 15:48:09 GMT
Thanks for the direction gwnwar, no 320clk hoops on eBay in uk but I'll keep an eye out.
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Post by mawdo81 on Aug 29, 2016 20:54:05 GMT
Could use a fuel safety cut out switch from a focus to activate, in parallel to a manual switch. Have one spare if you go down that route.
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