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Post by R2S on Feb 19, 2016 8:40:23 GMT
Thanks gents, lower frame will be cut down and installed simply to provide some stiffness to bottom of subframe.
As for the rear body support in the short term I'll stick in a spacer in lieu of support (to be fitted at a later date) just to ensure correct location of subframe to chassis before tightening everything up.
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Post by R2S on Feb 22, 2016 19:04:34 GMT
I knew things were going too smoothly, forgot to re-tap all the holes/threads on the powder coated subframes, first thing I came to fit (steering rack) bolts wouldn't catch and I dont have a 12x1.25 tap!
Used an old bolt but not before damaging one of the threads!
Has anyone else had problems fitting the rear most front subframe/chassis short bolts? Holes aren't big enough on my chassis to receive bolt.
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Post by R2S on Feb 26, 2016 17:30:14 GMT
Folks now that the car is back on its wheels (and with very little weight on it), it looks extremely low (springs set with no preload at moment so accept this may be the cause) can those with finished builds let me know the measurement from the underside of their floor to road (at moment mine is circa 3" (75mm))?
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Post by marmot0 on Feb 26, 2016 20:29:24 GMT
Hi,
What size tyres have you got, make sure you don't get caught out by the minimum height from the floor to the bottom of the rear lights with a full tank of fuel.
Cheers
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Post by R2S on Feb 26, 2016 21:40:13 GMT
I've got the original MX5 wheels and tyres on at moment, preloading springs will bring ht up quite and the addition of some 205 70 15s on the wires should help too.
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Post by john on Feb 27, 2016 15:02:31 GMT
Could those tyres throw the Speedo out at all ?
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Post by R2S on Feb 27, 2016 16:59:07 GMT
Yep they would still undecided whether to use original dash, and wheels for IVA (just plug and play with all electricals and speedo accuracy), then move to the biggest round dials I can find or go straight to the after market dials. There is, posted elsewhere, a way of using some gears to adjust the existing speedo output of gearbox to match larger wheels
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Post by john on Mar 10, 2016 8:00:22 GMT
To answer an earlier question my garage floor to car floor is circa 7" that's with all running gear fitted and bolted up.
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Post by R2S on Mar 15, 2016 22:37:37 GMT
Its that old chestnut of tyres again folks can other Replicar owners confirm what tyres they have gone for, have seen some 205 70 15 Avon Turbo Steels at less than Vredestein Classics and these will look the part on the wires supplied with the kit (original MX5 wheels and tyres will be used for IVA), advertised as original fit to Jags and Jensens.
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Post by marmot0 on Mar 16, 2016 6:46:37 GMT
Mine are 175/70/15. Thanks
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Post by R2S on Mar 23, 2016 16:51:31 GMT
Noting that its another MX5Parts discount weekend has anyone else replaced their engine mounts? I reused originals but now (before I start adding parts) might be a good time to change.
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Post by R2S on Mar 30, 2016 11:52:13 GMT
Couple of hours in the workshop this morning and finished off the spacer/filler between firewall and rear of clutch master cylinder. Also took a look at sorting the upper fixing for the pedals. I note the simplest solution is the threaded bar (as used by many others) but the bolt locations on the pedals didn't line up with the cross bracing on my chassis and putting something in place twisted just didn't feel right. After half an hour scouring the workshop for some box section I found the stuff used in the photo. Anyone car to guess where it came from? (it is part of the donor but which part?) I can now locate holes exactly where they need to be without twist. Did have an afterthought that rather than one box section I could use two cut to the width of the pedal brackets but one box keeps things much stiffer.
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Post by john on Mar 30, 2016 12:09:28 GMT
Bumper reinforcement bar ?
Did you make the spacer how thick does it need to be mate? nice work.
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Post by R2S on Mar 30, 2016 13:42:30 GMT
It is indeed the front bumper bar, just happened to be right width/thickness for the job, I cut the bottom third off just leaving two box rather than three. Mega easy to cut with hacksaw, and tidied with sander.
The spacer is about 20mm but had to be filed down for exact thickness testing insitu, made from flat bar 3/4" thick and cut and drilled. Central hole took over an hour to cut using hole drill! Outer holes only seconds as I had right, 18mm, blacksmiths drill for the job.
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Post by R2S on Apr 9, 2016 15:52:54 GMT
Steering wheel and pedals all now fitted, went to trial fit fibre glass dash and it doesn't clear the steering bracket, have others cut this out at bottom?
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