Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2016 7:50:29 GMT
Hi R2S, I have the same with the dash sitting on the steering column so a little work required to cut it back. I think this is normal and looks better anyway with the column coming from the bottom of the dash
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Post by R2S on Apr 15, 2016 20:27:27 GMT
Another frustrating day in the workshop, ten minute job turned in two hours and still isn't sorted. I went to fit the middle piece of steering column to the rack and its too long! Ive read other threads where its too short but this has me stumped, its exactly same length as it came off the donor so dont know what to do. I haven't made any attempt to shorten (crush) as I have no idea how its formed internal and dont want to damage. Any help/advice gratefully received.
Also the uj at base of steering column is rubbing on the rubber collar where it passes through firewall, again something which I am sure cant be right.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2016 6:20:50 GMT
I had a length issue with the column but it does adjust with a few taps from a hammer, if you adjust too far the internal spline will disengage. If you do this you can just pull it back out. I had to grind the hole in the firewall to get the column through the firewall without touching, if you use the rubber cover from the MX5 you still cover the hole even after widening.
I get days where I waste hours with no real progress but some days I benefit from that work and get loads of stuff fixed in short time, it is all part of the joy of building a car.
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Post by R2S on Apr 16, 2016 17:30:06 GMT
I had a length issue with the column but it does adjust with a few taps from a hammer, if you adjust too far the internal spline will disengage. If you do this you can just pull it back out. I had to grind the hole in the firewall to get the column through the firewall without touching, if you use the rubber cover from the MX5 you still cover the hole even after widening. I get days where I waste hours with no real progress but some days I benefit from that work and get loads of stuff fixed in short time, it is all part of the joy of building a car. Just had a quick half hour in the shop whilst passing and a couple of sharp taps with hammer (protecting shaft with piece of wood) and shaft shortened (used plumbing tape as marker) Everything now trial fixed in place and yes uj rubs against edge of hole in firewall (so frustrating having had chassis powder coating that I now have to keep stripping it off to get things to fit!). Other thing i've found is that column cover is some distance from dash (haven't noticed this on other builds ~ note to self pay more attention)
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Post by marmot0 on Apr 16, 2016 18:18:24 GMT
Hi. I would get the bodywork on before positioning the dash. Cheers
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Post by R2S on May 13, 2016 15:13:00 GMT
Managed to get some time on the car today so thought Id sort the steering shaft/bulkhead interference! Marked area to be cut out to give equal clearance, and allow rubber collar to be fitted, needed to build and strip a number of times to both position collar and locate holes for same.
No idea how but on final fit steering shaft now aligns with the original hole in the bulkhead, not a total waste of a day as collar holes are now drilled and all exposed metal repainted, ready for everything to be fitted and torqued up next Friday.
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Post by john on May 15, 2016 0:09:49 GMT
Glad sorted mate at least you know you got it sorted I didn't use my rubber collar but may look to see if can be added next time column comes out.
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Post by R2S on May 20, 2016 20:05:00 GMT
Go yellow ? Cant believe it was over a year ago I asked the question, first corner rebuilt today! Did the brakes whilst waiting for the sealant to go off around the rubber collar on the steering shaft (bulkhead) before putting the steering back together
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Post by R2S on May 21, 2016 22:53:18 GMT
Just doing a trawl on the inter web for some steering set up details because on rebuild, and setting track rod ends at same length as when removed (16 complete rotations on both sides) I now have substantial toe out! Thought I'd use this www.miata.net/garage/alignment/ to put a temporary, pre IVA, set up on the suspension, will get it set up by professionals once its on the road.
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Post by gwnwar on May 22, 2016 2:45:52 GMT
That is a good place to start..
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Post by R2S on May 27, 2016 18:48:01 GMT
Well its Friday so that means a day in the workshop. Both rear brake set ups now installed on the hubs and torqued up, have also set up hand brake adjustment even though no fluid in system (no reason this should affect the mechanical hand brake). Unable to fit the hand brake as MX5 Parts are still struggling to supply the second one of the cables (I had to cut one off when stripping down and dont like matching old and new so ordered two new cables). At the time of ordering the cables I thought Id add new nuts and spring washers for the lower shock fittings, mistake these are on back order to. Im starting to be a little less than impressed with the regularly update "will be in stock in four weeks" as this seems to be a rolling four weeks. Even more annoying when I total up how much Ive spent with them (rant over). Whilst I cant sort the front shocks I spent the day torquing up the rest of the front suspension and steering rack, with exception of track rod ends as I need these out of way to sort lower shock fittings. All bolts and nuts that I've torqued are marked with a gold paint pen (my memories not what it was so easy way to identify whats been torqued). (Photos to follow) Cleaned off the rust on the petrol tank and made a couple of small indents on the leading edge (where it lines up with cross braces on chassis), will raise back of tank slightly (maybe 20mm) as its just contacting top of rear subframe. Dont know yet whether to use rubber dollies or a slab of rubber drilled through. Not proposing to raise front on tank as this would result in it having to move the whole thing back slightly (to miss the previously referred to braces). Didn't realise you have to live in a Metropolis to buy Rubberised paint (for the tank) off the shelf, nipped into Halfords on way to workshop to be told we dont stock it in this smaller shop (its clearly a local shop for local people - its in Glossop on the outskirts of Royston Vassey where my workshop is - have a look at the very first photo on my thread and you may spot a bit of local memorabilia). Tried various other 'local shops' but none had rubberised paint so its a trip to either Stockport of Macclesfield over the weekend. This is how much lift Im thinking of Had another result, whilst looking for some small bolts I noticed Id used the four lower bracket (the one that fits under the rear subframe) bolts in the chains to lift the motor.....knew Id put them somewhere safe.
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Post by R2S on May 28, 2016 13:45:41 GMT
Quick blow over with Halfords rubberised enamel.
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Post by john on May 30, 2016 7:39:31 GMT
Nice progress mate, coming together.
Agree about wiring as was said I laid it out on the floor cable tied bits together which I knew would go together on the car. I wrapped tape round connectors and wires I knew I didn't need anymore so could be easily identified as not needed otherwise I kept picking up every wire and connector ten times. Then just start at tge front and work way back laying it on the car and cable tie bits onto the chassis to help layout. I've only just started this bit but wasn't as bad as I had been worried about.
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Post by R2S on Jun 8, 2016 8:12:41 GMT
ok Ive posted in the brake section with zero response so will ask my question here.
I bought a full set of mintex brake pads and under a separate order a full set of spring clips, (as above) fitted the rear pads a couple of weeks ago but didn't manage to fit the W spring clips as it wasnt clear from trail fitting how they are fitted, and the manual doesn't show you either.
Did the usual and resorted to the inter web and found the clips fitted four different ways in various pictorials but none of which will work with the mintex (double slotted each end) pads.
Just rang MX5 parts and they tell me the W clips must be fitted with the double slot pads (but they didn't tell me how!) does anyone out their know?
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Post by R2S on Jun 9, 2016 16:16:58 GMT
all the pictures/guidance I'd found on the inter web was wrong (at least as far as I can tell) this is how I believe the W/M clips fit.
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