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Post by hutchey on May 29, 2018 16:05:09 GMT
Hi all, Can anyone help with some answers to a few questions please? (Some are for IVA in the UK) 1) Wheel arches - for these to be level before fitting the arches to the stays, did everyone get their camber and castor sorted so the car sits flat or does it make no difference? b) Some have made brackets with threaded tube etc to "lift" the wings up a bit higher and have cleaner fitment but by how much so as to still get a standard circumference tyre off? 2) Daytime running lights - are these needed for IVA? Not seen any completed cars with them yet. 3) IVA says that dipped lights cannot now be flat patterned but MOT says this id ok - I can't see many options that comply with IVA? 4) Rear fog (mine is a UK spec car) do I need to add some new electric box to control the fog not coming on or being left on? 5) Hazard switch - mine has a load of wires and I think I read that only 2 or 3 are now required on a single pole switch? Anyone able to confirm? 6) Lighting - can I use LED units at the back and LED mini side indicators and still use Halogen front units without having to add in LED control boxes or whatever? 7) I've got 25mm wheel spacers on at the moment so should i be looking to get some wheels that take the ET from whatever the Mazda runs - 25 down to zero? Ensuring the spigots are correct too? Read more: mevowners.proboards.com/thread/7870/richs-exocet-build?page=15&scrollTo=104036#ixzz5GuJqAaZi |
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Post by hammy3601 on May 29, 2018 16:07:52 GMT
Dont know but good luck with the rear fog, I had to get a sparky in to sort on my last two kit builds. Jedi stuff!
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Post by hutchey on May 29, 2018 16:17:28 GMT
That's what I thought. Seems really silly, along with the MOT approved headlights whereas IVA says NO.
Who did you use? My last auto sparky was brilliant but he retired on health grounds and there's noone over this way that even bothers to reply.
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Post by mikeeyboy on May 30, 2018 6:55:15 GMT
Hi all, Can anyone help with some answers to a few questions please? (Some are for IVA in the UK) 1) Wheel arches - for these to be level before fitting the arches to the stays, did everyone get their camber and castor sorted so the car sits flat or does it make no difference? b) Some have made brackets with threaded tube etc to "lift" the wings up a bit higher and have cleaner fitment but by how much so as to still get a standard circumference tyre off? 2) Daytime running lights - are these needed for IVA? Not seen any completed cars with them yet. 3) IVA says that dipped lights cannot now be flat patterned but MOT says this id ok - I can't see many options that comply with IVA? 4) Rear fog (mine is a UK spec car) do I need to add some new electric box to control the fog not coming on or being left on? 5) Hazard switch - mine has a load of wires and I think I read that only 2 or 3 are now required on a single pole switch? Anyone able to confirm? 6) Lighting - can I use LED units at the back and LED mini side indicators and still use Halogen front units without having to add in LED control boxes or whatever? 7) I've got 25mm wheel spacers on at the moment so should i be looking to get some wheels that take the ET from whatever the Mazda runs - 25 down to zero? Ensuring the spigots are correct too? Read more: mevowners.proboards.com/thread/7870/richs-exocet-build?page=15&scrollTo=104036#ixzz5GuJqAaZi1. I didn't need to do this. Fitted the stays and then got them adjusted afterwards, no issues. 2. No point, you don't need them at IVA so if you fit them it's something else to fail! 3. I used the small photon projector lights from furore, these passed IVA in there supplied state. I think the dominators are a bit hit and miss. 4. IVA man at Nottingham told me that the rear fog stuff was being over thought. I was lazy and used the cartec unit. Pretty straight forward to fit. www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/cartek-iva-compliant-fog-light-switch-control-unit-cd-es-fc25. From memory I think the hazard switch on mine ended up with 3 or 4 wires, it isn't complicated, got to mellens.net and download the wiring diagram for your mx5. The hazards are on a detailed diagram. 6 Yes. I used LEDs on the rear and all indicators. My headlights were not. You will just need to fit resistors which are available on eBay to slow the blink rate down on the indicators. 7. Yes you basically need to aim for a figure of zero. On mine I was about 3mm as I couldn't justify the extra 80 quid on spacers as I found some that were bought in error by the shop. Only buy the fully machined alloy ones with the built in studs, the cheap spacers are not worth it for something so important. |
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Post by snowbird1 on May 30, 2018 14:29:25 GMT
Hi all, Can anyone help with some answers to a few questions please? (Some are for IVA in the UK) 5) Hazard switch - mine has a load of wires and I think I read that only 2 or 3 are now required on a single pole switch? Anyone able to confirm? I think most MX5s have a multi pin flasher control module and a simple hazard switch that grounds one pin on the control module, but a couple of MYs, and I think '99 may have been one of them, they used a 3 pin flasher module with a multi connection hazard switch. |
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Post by hutchey on May 30, 2018 15:19:59 GMT
Hi all, Can anyone help with some answers to a few questions please? (Some are for IVA in the UK) 1) Wheel arches - for these to be level before fitting the arches to the stays, did everyone get their camber and castor sorted so the car sits flat or does it make no difference? b) Some have made brackets with threaded tube etc to "lift" the wings up a bit higher and have cleaner fitment but by how much so as to still get a standard circumference tyre off? 2) Daytime running lights - are these needed for IVA? Not seen any completed cars with them yet. 3) IVA says that dipped lights cannot now be flat patterned but MOT says this id ok - I can't see many options that comply with IVA? 4) Rear fog (mine is a UK spec car) do I need to add some new electric box to control the fog not coming on or being left on? 5) Hazard switch - mine has a load of wires and I think I read that only 2 or 3 are now required on a single pole switch? Anyone able to confirm? 6) Lighting - can I use LED units at the back and LED mini side indicators and still use Halogen front units without having to add in LED control boxes or whatever? 7) I've got 25mm wheel spacers on at the moment so should i be looking to get some wheels that take the ET from whatever the Mazda runs - 25 down to zero? Ensuring the spigots are correct too? Read more: mevowners.proboards.com/thread/7870/richs-exocet-build?page=15&scrollTo=104036#ixzz5GuJqAaZi1. I didn't need to do this. Fitted the stays and then got them adjusted afterwards, no issues. My stays are on and wasn't sure on fitting wings until the car sat flat and was set up for castor etc. 2. No point, you don't need them at IVA so if you fit them it's something else to fail! 3. I used the small photon projector lights from furore, these passed IVA in there supplied state. I think the dominators are a bit hit and miss. 4. IVA man at Nottingham told me that the rear fog stuff was being over thought. I was lazy and used the cartec unit. Pretty straight forward to fit. www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/cartek-iva-compliant-fog-light-switch-control-unit-cd-es-fc25. From memory I think the hazard switch on mine ended up with 3 or 4 wires, it isn't complicated, got to mellens.net and download the wiring diagram for your mx5. The hazards are on a detailed diagram. 6 Yes. I used LEDs on the rear and all indicators. My headlights were not. You will just need to fit resistors which are available on eBay to slow the blink rate down on the indicators. Would that be a resistor to each LED'd Indicator (effectively 4 or 6 depending on rear/side/front)? 7. Yes you basically need to aim for a figure of zero. On mine I was about 3mm as I couldn't justify the extra 80 quid on spacers as I found some that were bought in error by the shop. Only buy the fully machined alloy ones with the built in studs, the cheap spacers are not worth it for something so important. Good to know - I have 25mm spacers so the et40 - 25 = 15 so I'm looking for et15 wheels if that's right? |
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Post by hammy3601 on May 30, 2018 17:09:38 GMT
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Post by sheffjohn on May 30, 2018 17:32:54 GMT
Point 3: flat beam.
I cant see where 2018 iva manual says no flat beam.
Note 6 on the headlamps section says
"headlamps producing a flat dip beam are acceptable, and
will not have to meet the aim criteria for “break point”."
Where did the no flat beam comment come from?
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Post by mikeeyboy on May 30, 2018 20:46:52 GMT
Yeh, tbh you could solve it a lot cheaper. But I fitted it right at the end of my build when I really didn't want to have to worry about it. 30 quid and problem solved. |
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Post by hutchey on May 31, 2018 10:55:34 GMT
Point 3: flat beam. I cant see where 2018 iva manual says no flat beam. Note 6 on the headlamps section says "headlamps producing a flat dip beam are acceptable, and will not have to meet the aim criteria for “break point”." Where did the no flat beam comment come from? I read it on a page in the CBS parts catalogue p186 that flat dipped is not ok for IVA |
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Post by Stiggy on May 31, 2018 21:59:09 GMT
at the back of the hazard switch join orange to black to operate hazards.
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Post by hutchey on Jun 5, 2018 17:54:24 GMT
at the back of the hazard switch join orange to black to operate hazards. My hazard switch doesn't have those colours but the hazard relay does. Oddly though the hazards do flash but theres a little buzzing coming from the relay. Further updates: I have all earths on and tested to 0.0 ohms I have working: side lights indicators hazards (sort of but not in the same way you all seem to suggest) Dash comes on and i can see odometer Now the bad: Can't start it nor get it to turn over (using a jump from my daily car and direct from a working battery) Rear fog light not working reverse light not working front dipped and main not working (just using the bulbs and the mazda connectors) - (when i try the full beams i get a buzzing sounds from a small connection relay? that sits on the right hand side of the engine bay with 2 other ones) Can't hear the fuel pump working either I've gone through all the fuses and checked earths at every one. I've given the starter motor a bash and still nothing I seem to be going backwards and not forwards now............................................ Losing the will - especially as 2 Exocets sold on ebay for less than I've already spent...............................  |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Jun 6, 2018 7:12:00 GMT
Hi, the not starting issue I would begin with all the wiring. You have one main engine loom that connects all the engine wiring up, this has 1 socket straight into the ECU, are these all in place? If it's not turning over I would rule out an immobiliser issue.
From memory I think the starter wiring is the only bit that isn't in the engine loom, is this all connected down to driver side of the engine. There should be a biggish grey connector and a couple of brown spade types needed down there.
What volts is the battery reading? Does the dash light up when you try to start it?
Did you strip the looms down to remove anything?
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Post by hutchey on Jun 6, 2018 9:47:01 GMT
I stripped out the usual bits not needed, electric windows, mirrors, central locking, heater, stereo, wipers and the after market alarm.
Battery is good as its straight out of my daily use.
All earths good.
All engine connections solid.
Wonder if it's possible the ecu has died or the lucas ignition unit failing.
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Post by mikeeyboy on Jun 6, 2018 11:29:36 GMT
The immobilizer shouldn't stop it trying to turn over, on mine I can disconnect it and it will usually start and then die (as if there was just enough fuel in the lines to let it start or something).
If it was me I would be looking at testing continuity between the start individual cables and where they originate from.
Did you remove the all the part of the harness that ran across the dash? This included the "room" fuse which seems to effect a few different circuits on the car. I seem to remember the door and window motor wiring ran through this
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