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Post by golftdibrad on Nov 8, 2009 2:56:14 GMT
I'll keep this thread updated from now on.... for previous progress please see: www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=6705&p=79322#p79322My posts tend to be media rich, but alas no pics or vids from the days work today. Maybe tomorrow. Might even involve something other than time lapse since it may be a big day.... -Brad My goal for the weekend was to get it rolling chassis. Not as productive today as I hopped.... It started innocent enough. Go to the LSU shop where the arbor press is and make rear spindles, bearings, and hubs one part. Well, they have alot of construction going on so there was no light. Then, the tolerances on the spindles are kinda tight so the 2 ton arbor press was a no go. the hydrolic one was out of order....crap. So, I go to harbor freight to get the 6 ton hydro press. Hell its only 70 bucks and i can use it for lots of stuff. Nope, sold out. 12 ton was 129. So I was like screw it, I WANT rear suspension. Buy that crap and go home. Assembled press, pressed parts, disassembled press, shower, return press*, watch the refs loose the LSU game for us, and I'm home. Work continues tomorrow.... *I had a bad experience using a shop to press FWD bearings. I do it my self now whatever it takes... even if its a bit sleazy.
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Post by golftdibrad on Nov 9, 2009 2:12:41 GMT
Well, I missed my goal of making a rolling chassis today but just a little. FYI 15 inch alloy wheels don't fit the rear of the car Will 16's? I hope. 17's are too big for this thing IMHO. I figured out the steering after looking at the instructions, who knew? Didn't get a chance to fab it though. Pretty un eventful, just a bunch of work. Pics for your enjoyment. -Brad
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Post by Tim Kerr on Nov 9, 2009 19:01:59 GMT
Looks like your running a bike wheel on the car!!!!!!! :-)
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Post by golftdibrad on Nov 24, 2009 5:06:16 GMT
Well, I think I'm close to connecting the steering wheel to the front wheels. Got my adapter fabed up with the help of a friend and it *just* kisses some frame. After some work with the flap wheel it should fit fine. sorry no pics today -Brad
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Post by golftdibrad on Nov 30, 2009 19:42:45 GMT
I think i may have the brakes figured out. Such a basic thing... run a hydraulic system. But then you have different flares, an to brake to pipe thread adapters, one end standard the other may be metric... wow. For you guys building though..... I got this from an ebay seller. www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=551&catid=18available in -3 and -4. I priced some parts out and it seems like a pretty good deal. Now just to figure out what adaptor fitting I need and the rear and order that from summit.
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Post by brownie on Dec 3, 2009 20:12:02 GMT
Brad where did you get those rear uprights ? Are they custom ?
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Post by golftdibrad on Dec 4, 2009 19:34:54 GMT
Brad where did you get those rear uprights ? Are they custom ? nope.... they were the parts supplied by MEV. yours different?
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Post by brownie on Dec 4, 2009 20:01:36 GMT
Not got my kit delivered yet but, they look different to other pics i've seen. Prob just me then :-)
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Post by golftdibrad on Jan 23, 2010 16:45:02 GMT
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Post by golftdibrad on Mar 29, 2010 3:47:41 GMT
So, wow it has been forever since I've has a change to work on the car. Life get in the way i guess. But despite feeling like crap for the last two weeks (alergies..oak trees are in bloom) I got my butt in the garage saturday and worked on the brakes. The fronts dont really come with directions per say, but they are pretty self explanatory. The only issue I had was the spacer washer for the Rally design parts was a little small; probably due to the difference between standard and metric. While I didn't have a drill to clearance the hole, weirdly enough I had the right tool.... a reamer. Reamed those suckers out and they fit like a champ. Still need to flip the e-brake brackets, will do tomorrow. Other: I beat on my bent wheel relentlessly with a dead blow hammer and a piece of wood. I think I got most of the bend out.... if the tire is dismounted the rest will be easy, but it may balance anyway. In other news on of the jam nuts for the tie rod ends is frozen on. PB blaster failed. Next is the heat wrench. If that fails, me and Mr. dremel will spend some quality time cutting the nut off with the hope of not damaging the treads....much. So nice to be working on it again in a CLEAN garage. -Brad
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mattsmev
Senior
It's only Rocket science...
Posts: 726
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Post by mattsmev on Mar 29, 2010 16:50:22 GMT
Hi Brad
I'm interested in your comments on 15" wheels. I have two sets, one for track days and one set for the road, both 15" and both fine. I think your uprights must be slightly different, although the look the same. What 15" wheels have you tried?
Cheers
Mattsmev
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Post by golftdibrad on Mar 30, 2010 13:38:01 GMT
Hi Brad I'm interested in your comments on 15" wheels. I have two sets, one for track days and one set for the road, both 15" and both fine. I think your uprights must be slightly different, although the look the same. What 15" wheels have you tried? Cheers Mattsmev VERY interesting..... I am using the stock 15" focus alloys. They are high offset FWD wheels, that may be the issue here. Let me know what kind of 15's your using. Thanks, Brad
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mattsmev
Senior
It's only Rocket science...
Posts: 726
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Post by mattsmev on Mar 30, 2010 19:29:05 GMT
My road wheels are 4 x 15'' Team Dynamcis Jet with 195/50/15 Tyres )Toyo Proxes). My track wheels are wolfrace pro lights (or pro sprints, the ebay vendor was not sure) with the same size tyres, Toyo R888
both sets of wheels bind on the upper wishbone on full droop. but that only happens when it is jacked up. After 3000 miles on the road and 5 track days there are no marks on the inner rims so i guess i never get to full droop on my suspension.
My donor had 16" rims, so i have never tried the stock ford wheels.
There are some advantages in the smaller wheels, as well as being significantly cheaper (very important to me) they also give a more compliant tyre due to the larger side wall. I am not sure if they are lighter or not.
Hope this helps
mattsmev
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Post by golftdibrad on Apr 1, 2010 22:35:42 GMT
My road wheels are 4 x 15'' Team Dynamcis Jet with 195/50/15 Tyres )Toyo Proxes). My track wheels are wolfrace pro lights (or pro sprints, the ebay vendor was not sure) with the same size tyres, Toyo R888 both sets of wheels bind on the upper wishbone on full droop. but that only happens when it is jacked up. After 3000 miles on the road and 5 track days there are no marks on the inner rims so i guess i never get to full droop on my suspension. My donor had 16" rims, so i have never tried the stock ford wheels. There are some advantages in the smaller wheels, as well as being significantly cheaper (very important to me) they also give a more compliant tyre due to the larger side wall. I am not sure if they are lighter or not. Hope this helps mattsmev Good to know, I think the backspacing is what is hosing me. BUT, the interference is the same as you describe so maybe i can run them safely. How do you mount them? I'd like to run smaller wheels. Cheaper tires, rims, less rotating mass, unsprung weight....fit the car better, etc.
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mattsmev
Senior
It's only Rocket science...
Posts: 726
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Post by mattsmev on Apr 2, 2010 7:32:05 GMT
How do i mount them? I am not sure i understand the question. i use the wheel nuts supplied, no spacers or anything. I'll check the offset this weekend and let you know
Cheers
Mattsmev
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