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Post by hammy3601 on Apr 7, 2018 5:57:04 GMT
Got the compressor today. The guy threw a load of air tools in, happy days! Best £130 spent so far, should save hours of manual rusty bolt action.  Now that's a bargain mate! |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 8, 2018 15:29:13 GMT
Got the compressor today. The guy threw a load of air tools in, happy days! Best £130 spent so far, should save hours of manual rusty bolt action. Now that's a bargain mate! It also came with a 5KVA 110v transformer! |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 10, 2018 22:33:32 GMT
Took the rack, pump and suspension struts off today, and loosened the front wishbone bolts. I couldn’t get the anti roll bar off because the droplink bolts are rusted down to nubs! I’m thinking I’ll just cut them off and replace them. Same with the tie rod ends.   I’m going to modify the powered rack to remove the internal collar (rather than loop the fluid), should make for slightly lighter steering (still going to be heavy at parking speeds). I’ve also decided to replace the pistons and seals on all 4 brake callipers. I know it’s probably easier to buy recon replacements, but that’s not why I’m doing this. The shocks and springs are still good but the lower shock bushes are toast and my Energy PU bush master kit does not include these bushes (barrghhh). Looks like another £60 for a set of replacements...  I’m getting through an astonishing volume of WD40! Admittedly, I am out there most nights giving each bolt a tactical squirt.  |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 13, 2018 14:39:34 GMT
Disassembled the rear wishbones etc and removed the differential. I had taken the previous advice to loosen the hub nuts while the car was (largely) in one piece, so no real dramas there.  One of the cam bolts broke and I had to grind off one of the bolts holding the diff bushes in, but that’s par for the course. I removed the long bolts holding the diff to the backbone, but It took some head scratching before I worked out you have to prise out the two top nuts (silver flat things) from the frame!   |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 13, 2018 19:54:01 GMT
It’s all fully dismantled now.  One of the front pads was disgraceful! This is from a car with 11 months MoT!!! What a joke!  Gearbox came off easy enough.   Tidy up the garage and build a workbench next... |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 15, 2018 6:49:37 GMT
All tidied up now, ready to get cracking with the mammoth reconditioning task ahead. The list so far is: 1. Recon brake calipers 2. Remove suspension bushes 3. Clean up & paint wishbones, subframes, struts, springs & exhaust 4. Tap in grease nipples & fit PU bushes 5. Clean up engine, replace head gasket and valve stem seals, replace cam belt, water pump, spark plugs & oil. 6. Paint engine & gearbox That should keep me going for a while! I had trouble finding a scrapyard that would take the bare shell (especially without a VIN or V5), but managed to sell it on eBay for £60, so happy days. PPF in a pile   Work area ready for blasting bolts & small components (tub of callipers in need of refurb)  VIN gone - Easily the doggiest bit of welding I have done! (to be fair I’m a bit out of practice, the last time my mig welder got an outing was in 2002!!)  |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 19, 2018 12:05:36 GMT
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Post by themorgster on Apr 19, 2018 17:04:01 GMT
Sand blasting the old bolts is brilliant, but in doing so, all the plating is removed, leaving the bolt open to the elements. It will rust and eventually the thread will fuse and I will be sad again. One solution is to re-plate them, but that is a lot of hassle. My solution is to black oxide them, which involves no specialist tools or skills. I got the kit from Casewell and so far, so good with the Caliper bolts...  Before...  After...   |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 19, 2018 21:04:08 GMT
Sand blasting the old bolts is brilliant, but in doing so, all the plating is removed, leaving the bolt open to the elements. It will rust and eventually the thread will fuse and I will be sad again. One solution is to re-plate them, but that is a lot of hassle. Although you've chosen not to re-plate doing so could lead to problems anyway. Anything higher than g8.8 has to be treated with care as hydrogen embrittlement weakens them severely, they need to be heat treated within a few hours to stop that. |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 20, 2018 8:58:43 GMT
Sand blasting the old bolts is brilliant, but in doing so, all the plating is removed, leaving the bolt open to the elements. It will rust and eventually the thread will fuse and I will be sad again. One solution is to re-plate them, but that is a lot of hassle. Although you've chosen not to re-plate doing so could lead to problems anyway. Anything higher than g8.8 has to be treated with care as hydrogen embrittlement weakens them severely, they need to be heat treated within a few hours to stop that. I had heard that actually, good advice. Another option is to paint, but I think black oxide is (potentially) a more robust finish. |
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Post by themorgster on May 7, 2018 21:58:34 GMT
Put a deposit down for my Exocet Kit at Stoneleigh on Sunday. Took the family along too (Cadbury factory on the Saturday).  Some amazing cars there... I can’t even comprehend how many garage hours, blood, sweat and tears that all those cars represent.   Still plugging away at the brakes...  |
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Post by p2tav on May 8, 2018 7:13:34 GMT
coming along nicely looking good  |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54 
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Post by jayz101 on May 9, 2018 7:58:36 GMT
Brakes are looking great!
I am currently taking off the calipers from each corner and going to refurbish them myself.
I have not done these before so any tips on method and or paint choice?
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Post by mikeeyboy on May 9, 2018 8:31:50 GMT
Brakes are looking great! I am currently taking off the calipers from each corner and going to refurbish them myself. I have not done these before so any tips on method and or paint choice? You can use Foliatec caliper paint which is decent stuff or get them powder coated if you know a decent coater who will mask properly. Its also worth checking the pistons on them if they are old, a rebuild kit isn't that much money seen as you have them off and stripped. |
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Post by themorgster on May 9, 2018 11:51:06 GMT
Brakes are looking great! I am currently taking off the calipers from each corner and going to refurbish them myself. I have not done these before so any tips on method and or paint choice? I bought Caliper pistons and rubber kit and followed these steps: 1. Remove the sliders and rubber boots 2. Remove the piston. I used compressed air to push the front pistons out - put a rag between the piston and jaw as they come out with a BANG! The rears have a small bolt on the back concealing an Allen bolt which is turned to push the piston out. Do not try to use any other method of removing the rear pistons. 3. Carefully remove the bleed nipple. Mine were stuck fast so I put the body in a vice and applied heat. They are weak (due to being hollow), don’t break them or you are screwed! 4. Wire brush the body and hangar. I used a wire wheel in a grinder (wear eye protection - not optional). I also sandblasted mine, but it’s not essential. 5. Degrease using liberal amounts of brake cleaner. 6. Mask up the holes & inside the cylinder. I used silicone masking plugs bought off of eBay. 7. Hang them up from the ceiling and paint with Caliper / engine block paint. 2 thin coats, don’t put it on too thick or it will never harden. Leave 1-2 days between coats. 8. Reassemble. The trickiest part is getting the piston dust rubber seated. I greased it up and made sure it went in ok without the piston, then put the piston inside the dust rubber, but only a little way. Then seat the rubber in the body (like you did without the piston) and push the piston into the cylinder. 9. Use plenty of silicone grease on the slider pins, wipe off the excess that squirts out once the sliders are pushed home. 10. Reassemble. Done!  |
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