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Post by jason82 on Mar 21, 2018 12:52:32 GMT
Progress has been pretty slow for the last week or so due to the weather. As I am working on an open drive, I have decided to start reading peoples build threads for tips & listing things on ebay. Please excuse my bad memory, but a fellow builder decided to use an Hyundai Getz 1.3 2002-2009 expansion header tank, as he was struggling to fit the original Mazda part. So, being completely selfish, I purchased my one off ebay before posting this thread to avoid a bidding war lol. The part only cost £14.75 for the tank & delivery, and the overflow pipe that goes between the top of the radiator & expansion tank are the same size. The Hyundai bottle is very square in its fitting, rather than the chunky mazda design, so will be much easier to fit.
The Hyundai Getz tank in its entirety is: 8.25 inches across 4 inches deep 9 inches tall including the height of the cap.
The Mazda tank is : 9 inches across 8 inches deep 8.25 inches tall including the height of the cap
Hopefully it will help someone out !
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Post by hammy3601 on Mar 21, 2018 13:55:02 GMT
Aren't quite a lot of people running with no expansion tank?
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Post by mikeeyboy on Mar 21, 2018 15:01:26 GMT
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Post by jason82 on Mar 27, 2018 7:50:13 GMT
Ok, fuel tank removal day ! I have opened the fuel filler cap, removed the 3 retaining bolts to allow the neck to move freely, then removed the shroud around the fuel tank both in the boot & behind where the front seats fit (parcel shelf area). While you are in the parcel shelf area there is a little pipe retaining clip fitted that needs releasing. You only see the black butter fly wings to the rear of the fitting, this keeps the pipes to the body.
Then inside the boot, I have released the fuel pipe clips connected to the tank, keeping the clips as they should fit the new pipes fine. Then it was into the o/s/r wheel well. I removed the wheel & removed the plastic inner trim, I say removed, it snapped as it was as brittle as hell. Then the second plastic cover slightly under the car in the same area covered the fuel filter, this also snapped. 2 10mm socket bolts released the filter from the body. The aim here is to drop the tank with the skate. While I was in the area, I pulled the battery cables down through the body along with the abs plug, un clipping from the body. 2 10mm socket bolts hold a plastic case to the body, then they run up the ppf/skate.
I then un bolted the fuel tank, 12mm socket fits all of the bolts, but i had to use a long extension bar with a flexible joint attached between the extention & socket to get the 2 bolts at the rear of the tank. This was very fiddly, especially with rusted on bolts, but I won in the end. The exhaust rubbers were also cut as they were so badly perished, dropping the system down onto the cradle below.
The brake pipe from front to back meets at a 't' piece also inside the wheel arch, the connector was so badly corroded that I had to cut the pipe. I have left the o/s/r to n/s/r pipe connected as it runs along my rear cradle.
While under here, I thought that i would loosen off the 8 bolts under the body going to the ppf. 3x19mm socket bolts under each wheel arch at the back, then I think it was 2 17mm socket bolts for the tramp bars (the ones running from front to back). Every bolt came out fine with loads of WD40 and a bit bit of leverage on the ratchet. Now for the 'you cow' moment. On the diff cradle, the front nuts (19mm socket) on both o/s/r & n/s/r decided to come almost all the way off, they would not come off any further. I could not get the hacksaw in, so this left the other option, fire blanket between diff cradle & fuel tank, then with a brand new 4.5inch cutting disc, cut the threads. Even though I had the fire blanket as a barrier between the grinder and fuel tank, I was still bricking it. Oh, I forgot to mention that I screwed the middle bolt on the diff cradle (both sides) back in hand tight, as I still needed to Jack up the front & I was worried about the ppf twisting. These bolts were selected to stay in because they initially came out really easy.
That's it so far, I am now awaiting another play day to be approved by her in doors. Lol  photos upload |
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Post by jason82 on Mar 27, 2018 18:37:55 GMT
I got stuck in to taking the ABS system apart today. I am swaying towards removing the abs due to a warning light coming on before I started to strip my donor. I am not worried about the weight saving or any of that, its purely down to finances. I have decided to document the pipe routing e.t.c. just in case I change my mind or to help someone in need. All of the pipes are terminated using double flares.
I have numbered the master cylinder & the abs pump termination points for reference, there are no numbers on the parts that I can see, they are just numbers that I have given termination points for easy reference.
 
Master Cylinder ABS pump
Termination points as follows :
Master cylinder terminal 1 goes to ABS terminal 1 Master cylinder terminal 2 goes to ABS terminal 2 ABS terminal 3 goes to The rear brake 't ' junction under o/s/r wheel arch ABS terminal 4 goes to N/S/F brake calliper - Passenger side ABS terminal 5 goes to O/S/F brake calliper - Driver side
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Post by jason82 on Mar 28, 2018 7:45:19 GMT
I removed the pedal assembly finally. As the pipes connected to the master cylinder were unbolted (10mm open spanner fits all pipe connectors) remember to put a container under the bolts to collect the fluid as it comes out !, it was then in to the cabin. There is a bar coming through the bulk head from the servo that connects to the top of the brake pedal, the connector is c shaped & fits around the pedal, then a pin goes through the pedal with like a butterfly pin running through it to retain the bolt. This just gets pulled out, push the pin through, then its really important to put the clip back through the pin, & when the brake assembly was free, I put the pin and clip back through the pedal for safe keeping.
The throttle cable was really easy to disconnect. Basically, push your hand down on the accelerator, hold the cable tight, release the accelerator pedal, then with a flat screwdriver, push up on the yellow plastic shroud that keeps the cable connected to the pedal.
Then the clutch pedal, at the rear of the engine, you will have a rubber pipe going to a copper pipe bolted to the bulk head (has an earth wire by it). undo the copper pipe, remember it will leak fluid, so use a container & then cable tie the rubber clutch pipe to the engine so that its clear of the bulk head for the shell lift. At the other end of the copper pipe is the small clutch master cylinder, undo the copper pipe (this is also made using a double flare termination), then undo the bolt connecting the clutch master cylinder to the bulk head. Then back into the cab by the clutch pedal, as with the brake pedal, the bar from the master cylinder connects to the top of the clutch pedal using the same c shaped connecter, but this time, the pin has got a circlip on it, which I removed using a flat bladed screwdriver to flick it off. Pull the pin out, then keep it.
Now the steering column. I could not figure out how to release the steering column shaft, I looked at the Haynes manual, but could not find anything, the frustrating thing was that I could see the steering shaft connector. The trouble was there is a plastic shroud that was bolted to the bulk head using 3 (10mm socket) bolts covering it.
 I removed the bolts and it would not clear the coupler because of a rubber flange, so I lost my temper and smacked the shroud thinking screw it, I will buy another one ! I am pleased to say that the red neck approach worked ! I had not realised that there was an access panel at the bottom which simply pops off very easily, showing the bolt for the steering connector. NOTE !! before you remove the bolt keeping the steering column in, make sure that your wheels are straight & your steering wheel is in the correct position, then use tipex or in my case, my wifes nail varnish to draw a line from the steering column across the connector, this way you will know that the steering is in the correct location on re fitting. Undo the bolt, then start unbolting the back plates for the clutch, accelerator & brake pedals. Then there are 2 bolts on the steering column at the top that keeps the column connected to the bulk head, remove these, but always keep one hand on the steering wheel as it will suddenly drop when the bolts get released. Then give the steering wheel a bit of a tug, and it will come free. Back into the engine bay, grab the servo, & pull it away from the bulk head, there is a wafer thin acrylic gasket, I am not sure if it is important, but I have kept it anyway. Then grab the clutch reservoir & pull it away from the bulk head. The reservoirs may still have fluid in them, I tipped this into a container ready for the tip.
Back into the cabin, all of the pedal assemblies will now simply pull away from the bulk head. Remember to double check that the clutch & brake master cylinder pins have been put back into the pedals & the butterfly clip & circlip are securely fitted as buying new ones could be a bitch.
As you can see, the wiring loom is still in place in this corner due to the fact that I am not a mechanic, and I don't know what some of the parts are called that the wires connect to for labelling, so until I find these out, I am leaving it be. Most parts are obvious, i.e. headlamps, thermostat, charcoal canister etc, but there are a few wires attached to the throttle bodies etc & I just don't want to screw up. So I will wait until I have a clear head before getting stuck in. I was going to pull the wires into the engine bay, but then thought I will keep it in the cabin. As soon as the loom is fully removed, instead of boxing the loom and risking labels coming off etc, I will cable tie the wiring loom across the rafters in my shed as is in the car, this way none of the labels come off & cables don't get kinked. Well, that's the plan anyway. Lol.
Past the point of no return !! I have booked a crane for hire a week this Saturday to remove the chassis. My local scrap merchant has agreed to collect the shell for free as long as the shell is 'clean metal', i.e all plastic removed & other non metals, he said that he will make an exception for the windscreen. As the doors are going with the car, as soon as the shell is removed, I am loading it up with all of the scrap metal around the house & having a good clear out. This may work for others of you now if you offer the shell stripped of all non metals to the local scrap collector to get it gone for free.
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Post by jason82 on Mar 28, 2018 8:45:39 GMT
On a personal level, I have always done my own mechanical work as I am really interested in mechanics. I have started many many projects & finished none. I am determined to finish this one especially as I plan on using the car to raise money for Bristol childerens hospital by doing fancy dressed runs across the country for money. Bristol childrens hospital is very important to my family & I. A few weeks ago, my teenage son passed out while playing rugby at school, and they were amazing at diagnosing my son with Aortic valve stenosis & super valve stenosis. We are all incredibly shook up by this, they have got him in for an emergency operation next Tuesday to replace his valve in his heart. We have been offered accommodation so that we can stay by him the entire time, and they go above and beyond making the kids feel at home. Money is very tight for them with the cuts & I just want to do my bit to try and repay these fantastic people for everything that they do for poorly children & their scared parents. The charity is called ' The grand appeal', part of the Wallace & Gromit children foundation.  |
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Post by jason82 on Mar 28, 2018 8:55:44 GMT
I have also decided to now go with a yellow chassis with black bodywork to replicate the bat mobile. To clarify, the car is mine using my money, so won't be sold, but the work that I do with the car will be for the charity.
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Post by martinw on Mar 28, 2018 9:26:01 GMT
Hi Jason Just read your post - and feel for you. Every good wish for a speedy recovery for your son.  Regards Martin |
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Post by jason82 on Mar 28, 2018 9:55:16 GMT
Thankyou very much. It's appreciated.
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Post by Stiggy on Mar 28, 2018 10:16:23 GMT
On a personal level, I have always done my own mechanical work as I am really interested in mechanics. I have started many many projects & finished none. I am determined to finish this one especially as I plan on using the car to raise money for Bristol childerens hospital by doing fancy dressed runs across the country for money. Bristol childrens hospital is very important to my family & I. A few weeks ago, my teenage son passed out while playing rugby at school, and they were amazing at diagnosing my son with Aortic valve stenosis & super valve stenosis. We are all incredibly shook up by this, they have got him in for an emergency operation next Tuesday to replace his valve in his heart. We have been offered accommodation so that we can stay by him the entire time, and they go above and beyond making the kids feel at home. Money is very tight for them with the cuts & I just want to do my bit to try and repay these fantastic people for everything that they do for poorly children & their scared parents. The charity is called ' The grand appeal', part of the Wallace & Gromit children foundation. Very sorry to hear about your son, good news that they found the problem and can do something amazing to repair it. Remember to let me know when your car is doing charity work and we will make a donation. |
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Post by hammy3601 on Mar 28, 2018 18:50:38 GMT
On a personal level, I have always done my own mechanical work as I am really interested in mechanics. I have started many many projects & finished none. I am determined to finish this one especially as I plan on using the car to raise money for Bristol childerens hospital by doing fancy dressed runs across the country for money. Bristol childrens hospital is very important to my family & I. A few weeks ago, my teenage son passed out while playing rugby at school, and they were amazing at diagnosing my son with Aortic valve stenosis & super valve stenosis. We are all incredibly shook up by this, they have got him in for an emergency operation next Tuesday to replace his valve in his heart. We have been offered accommodation so that we can stay by him the entire time, and they go above and beyond making the kids feel at home. Money is very tight for them with the cuts & I just want to do my bit to try and repay these fantastic people for everything that they do for poorly children & their scared parents. The charity is called ' The grand appeal', part of the Wallace & Gromit children foundation. Very sorry to hear about your son, good news that they found the problem and can do something amazing to repair it. Remember to let me know when your car is doing charity work and we will make a donation. Me too! Let us all know on here or the FB Exocet page and Im sure not only Stuart and I will donate but many others too! All the best in the build but more importantly with your boy! Life's precious |
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Post by jason82 on Mar 28, 2018 19:06:12 GMT
Thankyou all very much.
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Post by jason82 on Apr 7, 2018 9:54:50 GMT
Ok, so my updates have been a little slow as my son has had his heart operation, & has been a bit below par. The operation went really well, apart from being told that he requires another one in the next 6-12 months. So, on this update, I have removed all of the fuel hoses, & the shell is now ready to lift. The fuel lines were all terminated using a single flare where the pipes meet the high pressure rubber hose. So the first pipe goes from this connector on the fuel tank ........
down to the fuel filter, then from the fuel filter to the rubber pipe right at the front of the intake manifold pictured here.....
Then the second pipe goes from this connector on the tank ........
This pipe then goes directly to the fuel hose on the inlet manifold closest to the bulkhead .....
The last connection on the tank is for the charcoal canister, & it runs from this connector on the fuel tank....
(pipe removed in the picture) & runs directly to the bottom hose connector on the charcoal canister...
As previously mentioned, the solid lines use a single flair (the charcoal canister pipe appears to be a low pressure line as it has no markings on it). It was a pain in the butt trying to undo the pipe clips that go from the body up to the tank. There are two different pipe connectors which I just could not release. So once I was sure where the pipes ran to, I simply cut the pipes. As I am entirely on my own at the moment, I don't want to be clambering underneath a car on an engine hoist trying to remove stuck pipes, especially with the shell spinning uncontrollably on the chains connected to the hoist. I am a bit further ahead of my posts at the moment, because I am trying to look after my ill son. When I get time, I will pop them up on here.
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Post by jason82 on Apr 17, 2018 9:11:45 GMT
Ok, so its been a while since my last update, its been a rough few weeks to say the least with my sons heart operation & fighting to deal with a rogue ebay company selling engine hoists that don't work. Glad to report that my son is now much better.
So before I removed the shell I just had to remove the handbrake cables. I was having a lot of trouble trying get to the connector where the rear cables meet the front cable from under the car, so I decided to take an aviation snips to the top of the gearbox tunnel & tackle it from above.
This was so much easier ! I made the hole large enough to get my hand through comfortably, then I pulled out the two slides keeping the rear handbrake cables in place ....
then given the slack on the cables, they were simply twisted out of the connector. I released the spring & then undone the little 10mm bolt head that kept the front handbrake cable connected to the gearbox tunnel. Then put it all away labelled up, just letting the rear handbrake cables fall to the floor ready to be dis connected from the rear callipers at a later date.
Now for the shell lift. I positioned the crane all ready for the lift, and connected a 2 ton lifting strap to the seatbelt bolts & started lifting the shell (new ram fitted to the lift - see my other thread). For some reason, the shell was very front heavy & kept tipping forward quite a lot. I tried to reposition the crane, but couldn't get it quite right. In the end, I got the shell as high as the crane would lift it, then to level the shell off a little, I placed a bit of 4x4" timber under the front to prop it up near level. I would like to add that I was completely on my own, so it got a little scary. I could not get the skate to bump up over the crane legs because the rear of the front beam had dropped down & was dragging on the floor (the bits of suspension braces that bolt to the footwells, round bar flattened off with a bolt into the footwell.
So after a bit of head scratching & swearing I decided to unbolt the gearbox from the engine & remove the skate in two bits. I thought that this would be my fastest & easiest solution to my problem, think again !!! I had removed all of the bolts except for one which somebody had cross threaded while doing a clutch change & the bolt just kept spinning. So I had to get out the trusty angle grinder & chop the bolt releasing the engine & gearbox.
I will try to put a pipe wrench onto the remaining thread & try to remove it, but I fear it could turn into a drill it & then use a helli coil to rectify the issue (that would be buying another tool then !  ). So the skate then came apart perfectly without any real issues.
I then clambered under the car while only held by the hoist and braced at the front with timber to remove the engine and the rest of the front cradle (not recommended  ). I had to pick it up using the exhaust & the rear of the cradle to level it all off so that the engine could be pulled out from under the car, bumping the wheels up over the crane legs.
I have marked the two points above that tilted into the ground stopping the skate from free wheeling when it was connected to the skate. I was under the impression that the skate would simply roll, however, the rear of the front cradle tilted downwards, fouling on the ground. I don't know why it has done this ?
I then dropped the shell down onto some axle stands ready for the scrap man to collect. For now I have re united both ends of the skate & covered it with my tarp to keep it dry. I have just started getting quotes on powder coating, so I will keep you all posted on what quotes I receive. I am also on the look out for some yellow suspension bushes. Looking at what I have left of my donor, I think that I will keep the power steering, as having just seen Burt trying the delete this on his youtube series pixel armory, & I don't fancy my chances. My coil overs have leaks on the shocks & the springs appear to be coil bound, so I may go back to standard. I have seen some cheap coil overs on ebay for around £200, but I don't think that the quality will be that good. The rocker cover is leaking, but I will give the engine a complete service including a new clutch kit as its really easy to get to everything at the moment. All four callipers require blasting & a rebuild, so I am going to contact Big Red today for a quote because I don't have the experience to rebuild such an important part.
Hopefully things should be more fun from here on out !
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). So the skate then came apart perfectly without any real issues.
). I had to pick it up using the exhaust & the rear of the cradle to level it all off so that the engine could be pulled out from under the car, bumping the wheels up over the crane legs.