St170 rear brakes

[chris2000]

Hi all

I have st170 rear brakes but the discs are rubbing on the mounting bracket they don’t seem to be in the middle of it. The hub as far as I know is all the way in any ideas.
photos.app.goo.gl/pT1HO4NsVzQK9fY33

[buildityourself]

Have you tried tightening wheel nuts/washers to make sure the disc is 100% secure to the hub as this can sometimes cause this and catch you out when the wheel isn't on and rotating.

[chris2000]

Thanks build it your self I’ve not got the drive shafts yet it must be that the front where the same. Not having much luck with hubs! For the back of the hub the the metal plate upright is 27mm on both sides.

[chris2000]

Thinking about it mine are too far in already. I am not 100% the the hubs and shafts are st170 I don’t know if they are different from a 1.8 does anyone know of the is a difference between them.

[chris2000]

hello the shafts are 170 and the hub are compatible with 170, the only solution i can see is fit a 3mm spacer on the inside of the disc.

[snowbird1]

I have the same problem, the 3-4 mm spacer seems to be the answer:


The problem is that now the studs are too short:


Can't get the studs out without pressing out the hubs which will destroy the bearings, planning to machine a 19 mm Ø hole through the upright at 6 o'clock position:

[chris2000]

Thanks for the reply
Ive ordered longer studs and a 3 mm spacer today my hubs have already been out once because they circlip was not seated correctly and as you say this destroys the bearing think I mate drill a hole at the bottom too

[Stiggy]

It appears the bearing housing is not in the correct position, maybe the flange on the steel section is too thick thus restricting it from landing in a position that finds the caliper central to the discs. You could shave a little off the calipers around the bolt area but they have to be 100% accurate so they pads sit flat.
Below is a sketch of the original design, nothing has changed as far as I know.

[Stiggy]

Could someone please check the measurements on an upright against the sketch in my last post so we can see if it is the calipers or discs or bearings or uprights that are incorrect.

[snowbird1]

My uprights came with the bearings and flanges assembled:


Not sure where these where assembled, originally a RTR kit, but the RH bearing is pressed in about 3 mm further than the LH one, no sign of a circlip groove!

Guess I'm going to have to press these apart and find out what is going on

[chris2000]

Hi

The bearing carrier seems to be correct it’s 21-22mm from the face of the upright.
With a 3 mm spacer it’s not quite in the middle but not far off maybe a little thicker one needed

Thanks.

photos.app.goo.gl/pT1HO4NsVzQK9fY33

[chris2000]

Hi snowbird mine are fully pressed in the second time around!

[snowbird1]

Good job we checked! Bearings where not pressed in all the way and circlips not fitted - this could have ended in tears . Whoever assembled these needs a kick somewhere.


Also powder coating had not been removed from the bottom of the bore - about 0.15 mm (.006") thick.

I'm getting new bearings and circlips, we will see how the disk lines up with the caliper when everything is assembled right.

[buildityourself]

did the bearing middle destroy when pressing out? if so, how do you get the outer part out? Is there no way of pressing the outer lip to get it all out intact? Or are the new bearing just precautionary?

[snowbird1]

Jan 30, 2018 19:39:59 GMT buildityourself said:

did the bearing middle destroy when pressing out? if so, how do you get the outer part out? Is there no way of pressing the outer lip to get it all out intact? Or are the new bearing just precautionary?

As you press the wheel flange out of the bearing the inner track inevitably stays on the flange, you then have to use a bearing splitter to get the bearing track off the flange - then put the track back into the bearing and press on it to remove the complete bearing assembly.
Although you can put the bearing back together the seal has been compromised and the bearing tracks may have been damaged by pressing on them so a new bearing is needed.