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Post by perthwa on Jan 29, 2020 7:31:52 GMT
Rear Engine Cover latch. The "boot latch" from the donor car was located and will fit nicely on the rear of the engine bay. Made up a 3mm Aluminium bracket that uses the original bolts and holds it in place nicely.   and from the right side. The latch is actually attached to the mechanism.  I will probably fold the front of this bracket over the edge of the lip as shown here.  I will put a rivnut under the location of the clamp, on both sides, and then bolt the mechanism in. Just making a decision on how to fix the locking bar to the fibreglass 'bonnet". Yes I probably will use SikaFlex 252 but I still need to look at the structure. Here is a look from inside the engine bay with the closed bonnet. The metal plate and the latch unit are pressed up against the fibreglass top of the engine cover and the mechanism is clamped in place on the frame.  and a view from a bit further back in the engine compartment.  Here is the latch plate that I need to attach to the Aluminium panel and then the Fibreglass. This is looking down from the rear of the car into the engine bay.  I have choices to make with the fixing; I figure that I need to be able to lift the bonnet up, but I don't really just want a handle. I know that when I press the key fob or the dash button, that the boot will open aka 'pop up' a bit and that may be enough to get a hold on it to open it all the way. However, I also want to attach a rear spoiler, so some reinforcement, like the 3 mm Al plate that I rested in place would probably suffice. I also need to see how the bonnet scoop fits onto the engine cover and how that is attached, and how I will include a 'stay' to hold up the engine cover whilst servicing etc... so all of these three things could conceivably be achieved by the one piece of kit... I am pretty sure that the other Western Australian Sonic that I have shown here previously, has cut a fairly large section out under the scoop so that heat can be better dissipated. Just need to check with him. We have a club coffee run this coming Sunday morning so I will have a look then. More coming soon. |
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Post by perthwa on Feb 1, 2020 8:12:20 GMT
Engine bay lock mechanism installed. A couple of rivnuts and voila...  I had to cut the top off of the plastic cover as it was binding with the locking plate. This was because I have used the plate in a sideways orientation to the way it was in the focus. so the rectangle shaped connector 'bolt' is a bit narrower widthwise.  It works, well I am yet to connect electricity and test BUT in theory it works. Now the top plate and the engine bay cover need melding into one and we are good. Have also bent up a bonnet stay and will attach that soon. Here it is with the plate locked in place.  You can see I have about 5 -6mm which will be the Aluminium plate and the Fibreglass cover thickness.. Therefore it should sit flush. |
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Post by perthwa on Feb 17, 2020 14:17:52 GMT
update: Put the engine in last weekend. and added the whole harness again and all of the bits. The son decided that we needed to move on and get the engine to talk to us as last time we tried there were too many OBD2 errors... Hot wired the doors.. those 4 errors now gone. Can not get Hydraulic power steering pump to prime... and are getting errors from that system. Meanwhile connecting all of the things that I intend to use... door mirrors indicator repeaters and the electric mirrors. almost done. Number plate lights done. all lighting seems good but just need to wire in my Alternative lenses etc as I choose and acquire them. removing of the ABS and other airbag stuff and having the engine still like me seems to be the challenge. Too bad I already removed some bits... The electric boot latch that I installed last week works a treat from the key fob... so that is nice addition. At least when I turned the key to the start position the engine cranked this time... so I figure we have connected most of the right bits thus far.   boot light hanging down from the top of the engine bay works when engine latch is opened.   Do not intend to use the heater unit as seen here sitting in the cabin... but I might use some bits of it... maybe the fan to redirect heat from radiator... I will also start trimming all excess wires out as soon as motor talks to me nicely... OBD2 tester I puchased refuses to 'boot up' so I have contacted tech support from BOSCH to offer some suggestions....   |
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Post by perthwa on Apr 16, 2020 10:55:18 GMT
Lots of things on the go... But brakes is the winner... Finally getting around to set up axles and brakes were the first thing I came across. Noticed that the nice gold Aluminium calliper bracket is radial design and the brakes I am going to use are axial Girlocks. So looked on internet until I was blue in the face... and frustrated... why does no one have design specifications...  So I made up a sketch. did some measuring etc.   Then I looked for some metal....  This is 10 mm plate and cut out 11.5cm x 12.5 cm. The other end of this bracket is yet to be cut. Just for the exercise I used a hack saw. ![]() Plate is flat and smooth and fits nicely. Needed to add 7mm offset to the side away from the disk.. Considered using spacer but decided that 17mm of threaded steel would be better than 10 mm of thread.  Here it is in situ minus the threaded axial bolts. Rebated the edges of the blocks before I TIG welded them all the way around. Hopefully, the tap will harmoniously go between the two pieces and give me a substantial 17mm thread to hold the brake caliper in place.   Have a little bit of rebating to allow clearance for nearside brake pad (about 3 mm will do).. May have to outsource the bolt threading as I am not sure I have 12 mm tap set... Just have to rinse and repeat for driver's side and then I can start cutting some body panel holes and mount the wishbones etc...  |
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Post by perthwa on Apr 17, 2020 11:54:03 GMT
 Another 8 hours making brackets. - Had a 12mm Tap set so that was easy. Just had to duplicate the first but mirror it for other side. Happy that clearance is good and that bolts all line up. Now to the suspension and wishbone installs. |
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Post by perthwa on Apr 19, 2020 7:02:56 GMT
4 lug conversion to 5 lug.   I was given a set of hubs that had the bolt holes welded over when the previous owner was going to convert them to 5 bolt pattern but never did. I looked up some 4 to 5 bolt spacers and figured that would be an option but spacers are rather frowned on in Australia.. So I bit the bullet and mapped out the biggest problem; 2 of the bolts impinge on the square disk brake mounting plate. I trimmed 2 mill from the side of the bolt and drilled a small amount of the hole to 1 mm oversize and then used a hammer to gently massage it into the hole. Then I used the vice to press home the studs.   Hopefully, my lack of material will not make too much difference in the structural integrity. I believe that the engineering is still good.  When I had done the two that impinged on the square plate and test fitted on a disc then the other three holes were a dream... Now I can use the original wheels from the focus... more money saved... |
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Post by perthwa on Apr 19, 2020 12:10:56 GMT
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Post by buildityourself on Apr 19, 2020 20:32:33 GMT
See you are tackling the loom Bruce, no comment either way yet? Stu
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Post by perthwa on Apr 20, 2020 0:46:10 GMT
The loom...
I have dummy tail lights in place. I found some Halogen globes and dome old style cases for headlights in my box of 'Locost' bits, which I have joined to the old harness and tested. Must have a couple of fuses that are broken as horn and OBD link don't work.
Mirror indicators are good and working and the electric mirrors I can get to move but I am working on adapting an 'old Corolla' switch from the Locost bits with limited success.
Adapted the old focus Hi-vis brake light into an Aluminium bracket ready for the roll bar... just need to finish and decide on site and fixing...
The fuel pump is connected, albeit just sitting on top of the tank, and there is no noise... I will get out the multi-meter and check soon for volts...
Same for a number of the other systems that I have connected up; the ABS which I partially deleted makes no noise... It is being removed but I want to do it so the ECU still talks to everything else. Ditto for power steering, all the wiring is connected to all the bits but I do not get any noise from this either... Doing some research on CAN bus so I can do some elimination of bits in a more calculated way...
Fuel Tank
Looked at Stu & Mikey's Sonic7 1.6 site and plan to replicate the fuel tank pump scenario.. I already have a tank, albeit with one end cut open but will need to install all bits, make some new and bigger holes etc. Ditto for adding fuel filler pipe and getting it to feed through to the proposed hole in the panel for the fuel cap mechanism...
Radiator and pipes: will also need to get to work with these bits soon.
A random number of jobs but they all have to be achieved... sometime soon...
As for the loom.... Yeh!
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Post by daydreamer on Apr 20, 2020 8:04:21 GMT
I am assuming the Aus spec donor is similar to the UK spec, that you are using the donor loom and ECU. If those assumptions are true then the following "might" be helpful, hopefully not distracting. The fuel pump is powered via an inertia switch that was , in the donor , behind the front footwell side plastic panel on the right hand side ( drivers side for all those right minded people that drive on the correct side of the road  ) . workshop-manuals.com/ford/focus_rs_2003_09.2002/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/310_fuel_system/310-01a_fuel_tank_and_lines/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/removal_and_installation/inertia_fuel_shutoff_(ifs)_switch/ If this switch is not present or is not installed vertically and depressed then there will be no power to the fuel pump. The switch can be bypassed but is a good safety feature and can be installed in the kit. The switch will be activated on severe impact, on severe bottoming out over potholes ( embarrassing when it happens ) or if the kit is inverted ( hopefully you never have to test this ) . From Memory OBD connection goes straight to donor ECU, if the ECU is not powered then I expect that the OBD connection will not work. |
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Post by buildityourself on Apr 20, 2020 20:35:38 GMT
I've bridged the power steering pressure switch connector to simulate pump normal pressure state. If you leave it open circuit the engine idle RPM would be raised permanently to deal with the extra load from the pump when turning the power steering.
(edit) of course if you are having idle issues (due to filters, open crankcase breathers etc, then this could help having a higher idel speed which is difficult to do on FI engine!)
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Post by perthwa on Apr 22, 2020 5:29:05 GMT
Great information... I will check for all of these as I proceed. Thanks for the knowledge from both of you, it is exactly the information I was looking for. Regards, Bruce.
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Post by perthwa on Apr 22, 2020 12:42:37 GMT
  setup the left hand front end. Albeit, with most of the bushes missing and two of the ball joints / top hats not in place... But at least it gives me an idea of what it will look like and where the body panel holes need to go... Does anyone know a site that allows you to type in bushing measurements and then finds one that fits? I have about 5 of the 20 sets of bushes and 3 of the 20 sleeves that I need to mount these... I have the measurements but its like looking for a needle in a hay stack... p.s. I checked the fuel isolator THING... It reads an open circuit when I bang it and a closed circuit when I press the button... So I figure that it is working... I have traced them back to the fuse panels and labelled them... just have to work out what triggers it and if it is getting a current when ignition is turned on. All good... progress with a small p. p.s. the boxes that the wheels are sitting on are only supporting wheel mass and some of calliper mass.. The car is supported on jack stands... the left hand box looks a bit bowed... but it is safe... |
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Post by daydreamer on Apr 22, 2020 15:38:05 GMT
On the donor, the fuel pump is powered from "stage two" ignition.
When you move to stage 2 ignition you should hear a relay click from the fuse boxes and then the fuel pump start for between 2 and 30 seconds as it gets the fuel rail upto pressure. You need all the donor loom earth points connected to the chassis and the battery negative connected to the chassis for the donor loom to work.
( stages 0 = no key , stage 1 = key and 1st click , stage 2 = key and second click , Stage 3 ( starter motor )
At stage 2 you should get the main dashboard lights on the donor binnacle ( if the ECU is connected ) if the ECU is not connected the ECU failure light should show ( yellow circle that looks like a gear wheel )
From memory with my mk1 donor, stage two ignition trips a larger relay that supplies numerous services , inc the fuel power supply ( via the fuse box and inertia switch. This larger relay is in the engine bay fuse box ( not the interior fuse box and uses one of the bigger fuses. Apologies for the vague terms , this is all from memory as I last looked at this about 5 years ago.
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Post by perthwa on Apr 22, 2020 21:30:18 GMT
Thanks for this update. I will investigate. I have connected to the best of my knowledge all 18 of the original earth contacts to the frame but I will check again; ditto for battery. I checked all of the fuses in the relay box yesterday and they appeared to be good.
p.s. Currently nursing two wounds after a shallow 1.15mm Melanoma identification and removal from the back of my neck two weeks ago. Then 2 days ago, a general anaesthetic for a precautionary 1 + cm extra incision all around the original site and the removal of a nearby lymph node and biopsy on the right side of my neck (lymphoscintigram - a small dose of Tc99m and a gamma ray camera scan and a CAT scan).. so just a a bit tender... but as I am on holidays, the build is also moving forward. Hopeful that the Node biopsy is clear and I do not tear any sutures as I continue to fossick around in the shed.
Dash is connected and ECU and I will look for the yellow gear wheel... don't apologise for the information, a good guide and a general direction is the most VIP and you have offered that. Regards, BW
###### Follow up on my pathology for the lymph node biopsy... Alleluia... all clear....####
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) .