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Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 10, 2024 5:48:58 GMT
I think you have got the bearing carrier fitted the wrong way round. Look at the sketch I posted further up the page. The larger diameter shoulder should be on the driveshaft side. Then your hubs will be further out helping the disc position. I agree with the above, also I cannot see a circlip groove in your carrier, what is holding the bearing in place?
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Post by perthwa on Jun 10, 2024 12:15:56 GMT
I had an issue finishing the last post...on my laptop now. Here is the spacer bolted onto the wheel hub without the studs in place. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPM86Pwm6h1OzSPEEOs2FysmSFUdvc5fv6ZCY3XGrn0Lhrkx3yEHpH2jatWH-jUNesJFhPH2PQNddY6YYP21JJeLmtGS8WZmHPKCHjlSA52TAAuCXt4G4fq4o_cEphC5Uu6LG2kUJvEKW2mH7_kMjrr=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) This is the longer studs in place BUT not pressed in. I do not have a press and need to visit a mate who does have one. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNQzmQxFTSJr8s0ABCsD4b8XjUgjpb8mE0gachR5PTyHrUwqE3t_t24r9fVAy0bGSXXKh75jYB0ouwRjl_i2ZR52Xp_MrRqdyovl3KUsHMkcCg0NXqLG2gN7h_AaFovE-TpwZMSSFlsDzLMdv4vTgkI=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) This is the outside view of the bearing housing in place. The bearing is press fit from the outside and does not use a retaining clip as the shaft bolt will hold in into the housing. The original Mark two bearing housing that I removed it from did not have a retaining clip. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPauVMN-BWpl7fiXAl8drUknwVuYs5WzRhWimpAQc7xRZNKjQVEsr3Ek2PeOvucOvt0rFugInCufey_y-KXmloKojOfHTUndF8UtAjwjBycLWjPzKJ8uAUgUZiwbnjg6hO3BetvIJI2sKj-q1OygJfp=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) This is the inside view of the bearing housing. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNBmhb_N73CDYUPVBdcT2w1ACEs0UzEDFQvxmJpplvQIrcdBI2F0w3Qg-gDnWElp-pPlO1SduoCNrq6D6VR3hyto4GVe3B1403RxeIN93fAH9DC5Mk2RKO3nj1nY18RBuC8Bw4mK6TarIbZ7Nwb1HS5=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) This is the disk in place with a plastic spacer that I made. The spacer I made is exactly the same as the spacer. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPSBUR2r4fYT33XEkRxKcuZMxm9K9R0JIsY_Jtb5g7A8bpDxg-ttBK6xJNa3hlhKM1fCx-gaVMTaiyrdjag8NY7LIWfCsq40bVBCR7MNXWiSBG0uh80TRAVBkA3nqv96vzQvGTw1jdbqRJi5afJDjDz=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) This is exactly the same layout as my Rocket; the bearing housing is slightly different BUT the layout is identical. This is the rocket 4 bolt spacer in place. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP26Ji5g23YFQiX6AXcIAEWJAcPCltmug5o9lkA758mDFUcMjn3ZEUukeDurEYkJoGJdeWiya7U7c25nbHvTFg0JZP6RqM6E0WjHCvlAGOUWRbmTY_zAO7QwwktBMr73EatT-moMyfNT4JCdN4RqczZ=w384-h682-s-no?authuser=0) Here is the Mark 2 Focus bearing before pressing into the housing. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOncisDgo-cfXB2f4n_G4MaVLklfN3PasMzB0Is5SB-LvdYVo6bymb9neJ3J5VqEQAwETiifkBb7sZIwiSReX71v-wiJFpGZVW0w14Qsjs7LOpyk0RSfITM1pZODS3fqixhpe6iiTAXsZV5pwUsOV0q=w909-h682-s-no?authuser=0) This is how far the bearing is located in the general scope of things. I did push it in a little more than shown here but you get the general idea. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMYZ-ZEept8l7Apg1oo8Tvx1awFEWWuDO7ZCMRSPUBsb1hnoicT6gNQnZKEDGbR6Bftr-aM72Zi1nnRw_yKsruXuTFLq9hmM4JHigkPecc4n-pCEjyatNPIYTSXeFEXHDGEI5XSt2R1q31p5rpIc2MY=w909-h682-s-no?authuser=0) ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPR9o9i4OG0ojg0rixWofs902nCqHMvmXETtNN_LmOqMEMGGOiM_v1eTbnkCem8kB1uKuSnthE6zBVPMfKxUN3mZJgehKnTV7RvGjw5jJ1f4ydSQGm_k73gKnVOXNknAE98H0EwRtV56qDfvHn5qkzA=w909-h682-s-no?authuser=0) ![](https://photos.fife.usercontent.google.com/pw/AP1GczOG7uSELv-kG7Bk-1xrz2BmAz7HvMWCSgCIvNlDdWS2y66m3L5ri0-n=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) ![](https://photos.fife.usercontent.google.com/pw/AP1GczOG7uSELv-kG7Bk-1xrz2BmAz7HvMWCSgCIvNlDdWS2y66m3L5ri0-n=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0) There is also no way that the wheel will fit over the housing and the upright if it is any closer to the upright. Hope that explains a few things. BW
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Post by perthwa on Jun 10, 2024 13:01:29 GMT
Thats highly unusual needing spacers between the hub and disc. How its that going to work without really long studs, which doesn't sound safe? Also the disc will not be centre seated on the hub flange. I think you have got the bearing carrier fitted the wrong way round. Look at the sketch I posted further up the page. The larger diameter shoulder should be on the driveshaft side. Then your hubs will be further out helping the disc position. Having said that your drive shaft doesn't look correctly seated into the bearing either. I understand that it does seem unusual to have the spacer between the hub and the disk but it is accommodating for the different shape of the uprights. Ford Mk 2 uprights are curved outwards where as mine are vertical. the length of the shafts place the bearing in a fixed position. The brake calliper locating bolts could have been modified and move further outboard, but the clearance to the wheel would be very close from what I could see. I do understand that they are designed to fit on the wheels with the brake disk flush with the inner face of the wheel. With this in place, the best solution was to move the disk and wheel 34mm outboard, so the disk fitted the brake calliper that is fixed to the upright. Engineering wise, I am not sure what differences there will be in performance, or safety. Other than moving the brake calliper outboard. The spacer has a closer clearance than the wheel and the disk. The spacer uses the original wheel hub bolts and the purchased studs are the same exposed length plus the 34mm thickness of the spacer. The spacer fits within a 1mm clearance on the hub and the base of the disk. In the photo, the bearing is not pressed up against the hub. It was during all of my measurements. May be I am missing something.
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Post by buildityourself on Jun 11, 2024 19:39:31 GMT
It does seem like the Mk2 is a different setup. I'm still unclear how without the circlip, why the bearing could not move ~10mm outwards until the drive shaft cone jams in the bearing carrier? Remember drive shafts are free to move inboard/outboard. I'm also still worried about the lack of a concentric lip to centre the wheel. my understanding is this is what stops a bump shearing studs off. The wheel studs are there to stop it rotating under engine torque and hold it onto the lip. Also is the spacer tight on the hub lip? the centre hole looks about 10mm diameter larger from the photo?
Given the Austrialian DOT seem far more picky than the UK ones what do they say?
The rocket setup looks better (I'm assuming the brake disc goes on next then the wheel?) as this appears to have a centre hub for the disc/wheel to centre on.
My Sonic has 50mm hubcentric spacers to prevent the wheel from hitting the uprights or wishbones.
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Post by perthwa on Jun 14, 2024 12:41:48 GMT
It does seem like the Mk2 is a different setup. I'm still unclear how without the circlip, why the bearing could not move ~10mm outwards until the drive shaft cone jams in the bearing carrier? Remember drive shafts are free to move inboard/outboard. I'm also still worried about the lack of a concentric lip to centre the wheel. my understanding is this is what stops a bump shearing studs off. The wheel studs are there to stop it rotating under engine torque and hold it onto the lip. Also is the spacer tight on the hub lip? the centre hole looks about 10mm diameter larger from the photo? Given the Austrialian DOT seem far more picky than the UK ones what do they say? The rocket setup looks better (I'm assuming the brake disc goes on next then the wheel?) as this appears to have a centre hub for the disc/wheel to centre on. My Sonic has 50mm hubcentric spacers to prevent the wheel from hitting the uprights or wishbones. DOT approved the spacers on the rocket... Well actually NO ONE even checked them, except me... so who really knows. The sonic is an identical set up. I haven't digested the rest of the feedback yet... will have a look over the weekend. Thanks for the thoughts. BW
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Post by perthwa on Jul 10, 2024 11:23:54 GMT
It does seem like the Mk2 is a different setup. I'm still unclear how without the circlip, why the bearing could not move ~10mm outwards until the drive shaft cone jams in the bearing carrier? Remember drive shafts are free to move inboard/outboard. I'm also still worried about the lack of a concentric lip to centre the wheel. my understanding is this is what stops a bump shearing studs off. The wheel studs are there to stop it rotating under engine torque and hold it onto the lip. Also is the spacer tight on the hub lip? the centre hole looks about 10mm diameter larger from the photo? Given the Austrialian DOT seem far more picky than the UK ones what do they say? The rocket setup looks better (I'm assuming the brake disc goes on next then the wheel?) as this appears to have a centre hub for the disc/wheel to centre on. My Sonic has 50mm hubcentric spacers to prevent the wheel from hitting the uprights or wishbones. DOT approved the spacers on the rocket... Well actually NO ONE even checked them, except me... so who really knows. The sonic is an identical set up. I haven't digested the rest of the feedback yet... will have a look over the weekend. Thanks for the thoughts. BW NOW I SEE THE POINT! The bearing is pressed into the housing and the bolt holds the bearing housing up against the inside face of the Universal joint. These two faces are held together by the bolt... BUT I see your point, there is nothing other than friction stopping bearing and the housing migrating outwards. It will only wander until the larger shoulder of the housing fouls with the bearing retainer... Now that will be something to watch carefully. Hmm, very interesting. (I never queried that as there was no visible means of support on the Focus that they came from..) On my rocket, we place a 'bolt in plate' on the outside to stop that migration, but this is not possible if the housing is fixed onto the bearing as per the Mark II. Thanks for the enlightenment. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNBmhb_N73CDYUPVBdcT2w1ACEs0UzEDFQvxmJpplvQIrcdBI2F0w3Qg-gDnWElp-pPlO1SduoCNrq6D6VR3hyto4GVe3B1403RxeIN93fAH9DC5Mk2RKO3nj1nY18RBuC8Bw4mK6TarIbZ7Nwb1HS5=w527-h703-s-no?authuser=0) the rocket plate! ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNchRW1qhKCL7vhb9tJxhVop80ct4bYSOh0jsRHDIiOtXtvlV3DbxW67HHEBOY_xdqw_6hSOGB9iQJpC8xnP0WpT7kXQwpiXb9fYAQW-j963UZjpUSuaeLW-cBgzGzaIhc6ART_UX3py-Gg_7teXsLF=w395-h703-s-no?authuser=0)
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Post by perthwa on Jul 10, 2024 11:25:13 GMT
I guess I could radially drill into the bearing race to stop it moving! Not sure if that would be more dodgy than just letting friction do its job... Actually been thinking that there is enough room to drill and tap a couple of threads on the outboard side of the bearing housing. This will allow a screw of some type to be radially drilled and not interfere with the bearing housing, but provide some resistance to the walking temptation. There is a 15 mm gap between the backing plate and the bearing surface. there is about 6mm gap between the backing plate and the housing below. that leaves 9mm of housing of which I could drill. What size bolt screw thing could offer enough strength to stop any walking? A Thought... ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPauVMN-BWpl7fiXAl8drUknwVuYs5WzRhWimpAQc7xRZNKjQVEsr3Ek2PeOvucOvt0rFugInCufey_y-KXmloKojOfHTUndF8UtAjwjBycLWjPzKJ8uAUgUZiwbnjg6hO3BetvIJI2sKj-q1OygJfp=w512-h682-s-no?authuser=0)
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Post by perthwa on Jul 12, 2024 12:36:24 GMT
Had to make up some sleeves for the lower ball joints and also had to taper the two steering rack ball joint tapers. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNUnQIjXUX1LqbfYZmp6SLGkh2vTM-8ZPX4EHYJY0rSMs1qiJm-bwLeUvhTPFPhcVbNwU4MPgU6B7JNjTcOwo2INuUl9CjImPtgfzWhcXeJ4ChYEmULfQoqaBlgpe8cfJ8gluosLNTvfY3Daz_EVyjI=w570-h760-s-no?authuser=0) Was a learning curve. did some maths and measurements to get the angle as close to exact as I could. Fits tight and hoping that all is ok. Now making up some sleeves for two front lower arm mounts as I noticed that I was not supplied enough. Doing these on the mill.
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Post by perthwa on Jul 14, 2024 2:15:30 GMT
Now that the front suspension is almost mounted, I can return to fitting the mudguards. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNJtgyhk0QFkh1Y1Q_ueK0MlmWSIll8Q9RHzIgYZ-KHCA1pE2L_GMyHd-5xlLjrndIc2APyMJcyysE7UPdtFeIc5OK7T6E6C_vk-rcF7BD-rnoY6u38hO_RvOlSQGfn4rRxMYMecPbOTKp00LqiT42w=w570-h760-s-no?authuser=0) I split the uprights a long while ago and added a sleeve. I have now slotted the mudguards so that they can be removed / fitted with the bars welded up. Originally, I was going to bolt these together but realised that the two angled section do not allow it to come apart in one unit. Now I am going to drill and tap the horizontal section above the tyre and bolt the guard to the mounting bracket. It does mean that I will have flat Allen head bolts on the nice fibreglass fenders, but so be it. I will probably mount my front visibility ( parking ) lights there anyway as per my rocket. The sleeves have been drilled and I will plug weld these shortly. I added a spacer of about 5mm to each shaft to give me about 1 cm of tyre clearance. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOwaNsp6T4CIzZlHqVnR5d1vS-oE366DV-OijD6jDmje9xG2DdayXKPj03gwkDcHTqRNFUKhDouTFZRpZycM9eQA67FhatCKEeOCHcNMoGjl7sOifMJtHkq24BSV0QgrDfciD8ASDT6Ho3R0-SvMjxi=w570-h760-s-no?authuser=0) ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMQGc90Nve0X_6AOtUHRvq4drODDhEaoZ5KMa0spf4v3FWtTlAMNffvS2TcQgW3woxeTIr86FM8YSQtiLZ_xWkVYg00ZZvSc9RBV7W-NS0n106izshHOA1DubJULeuQX6ne20V0_TPRm-q7J9bV1nMa=w570-h760-s-no?authuser=0) This was started on May 23, 2021.. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOtXuSKT1r2s4OVKLh2EAOZjIGGb9Zw3RosVeePM7QJ6mIf7t3vE47TinRxgaNjrs85KocMDl0vHqMmGoT5ycNCkJAGb2EGRqtUV_BT43G2spY8iIP6ulzXaHDiec8o0v4ARtx9XUXE731XsKwmRD_5=w440-h783-s-no?authuser=0) Just need some MIG gas so I can complete the plugging task or I will TIG it if I am too lazy to go and get the MIG gas. Then drill the holes in the shaft and the guards, Then Tap some threads in the shaft then fix the guards. Better get to work! Maybe I should clean some dust of the body!...
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Post by perthwa on Jul 14, 2024 2:45:17 GMT
By the way, here is a photo of the original bearing housing from Ford. well, after I persuaded the housing to release the bearing etc, This is looking from wheel side. No visible signs of anti-walking equipment... so I just copied them... ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d0U29Kmw7aXz07kp4oy5JUOt4LxPG7XQXyJ8kAZuiluY-Mc8lk-MW21FhmFSbUu7MYvjsg8U2MeugqQMknSyUhqOuYFV02_nb19wG4NrQZ7dl1If7pkxctCLRt1H2Tet2mvXvnGCKLpMeTB2rkestl=w575-h766-no?authuser=0)
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Post by perthwa on Aug 11, 2024 10:58:11 GMT
and now the lights hit the mudguards! an old before photo: ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMJHkN5apQjFJYspU3aCCmeO10xSEFYC6Au40ZOKmU5jGUePN7uGj9Akd7yPB9hTOMqii8KI7DwXrxkUMa8AV_57UaD5IZfrOgxBQjO7AVe2oCsN487FWVMm1v8vy6SDIh6MBuZu9_NCxpIPZKy8cJ2=w931-h698-s-no?authuser=0) Now that I have mounted the front mudguards, my carefully located head lights, that I thought that I tested fitted before drilling some holes, now hit the guards an maximum compression. Ditto for the indicator pods. So lets make up a new mounting structure and drill some more holes in the fibre glass. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNFKFCbFHyzRMssBsYl3_SRroUts9I3cTbz5wH9DsxcWdNc30aEVArIDKaA8fCMS29YcHQyJMd8w-X_-XmJvPWSRtNnOUAJzRb4otUHL2exlPe8QxYQ5-3jwe82i5mTA-lliZGfxdZd7hX47qb6K76A=w931-h698-s-no?authuser=0) These are going to be shortened. And I have moved the Headlight bracket above the shock absorber strut. This is closer to a radius of the guard's rotation and should give better clearance. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMOxxBobO9PN9Ehd69cbQhTHs36RXQM7b6moAavWYM84YM5RZhsShbbTnGffJLu-fccKfaLch3H_MJKktyf4n6S3zYw7W0EVtBU-rB_xBh6rnH5asNcrdF0vuK1rl0u428o0pwq6_WiHs3CoSSpXDO4=w931-h698-s-no?authuser=0) Still have to shorten the Indicator stalk and modify the angle a bit. Tomorrow's job.
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Post by perthwa on Aug 17, 2024 12:10:23 GMT
Modified the wheel spacers; decided to make up a centre hub support. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOricrIsPYc1aE0JWvzD99WW9lYn2ElHz5kgVJhOB-Ryx4lWsm6AxL1ZX_hNM9gf8uw846QQYsIqgwR_s-U-lBlSvDLsstM0zhtw6ruJQ3GlW4MEhp0ah3KaCgoUQm-Nb7wQ2vlRf4aA6q_8A-s6pf-=w519-h692-s-no?authuser=0) Now hub centric Used my lathe to take a big piece of metal and make it into a small piece of metal! Isn't that the function of a lathe / mill? ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOjlYlcoPtcT177oNv928eo42rHfhuKOUVxGJ_bBDrDJpdduY7tlzBCUkqI9yHuFrab2Gs7IEyp3BA6hBvqW1WOyUHIKx3Ns5DFmXBAQ2FLz5_OqivHoVZm9CFCiPHK7eGyn5aoN2sd_o-fB9WkiGu8=w519-h692-s-no?authuser=0) so now I can get onto the second one. Certainly fits ok but was a bit of effort removing the bearing and then cutting the shaft. Seemed to be some degree of heat treated steel. Back to fixing the front turn indicator brackets.
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Post by perthwa on Sept 7, 2024 11:41:47 GMT
Decided to make the indicator stalks out of a block of Aluminium. ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPNZS1ztpXm1ExuUxZKeVUX1auq-OlPgp1OgRbHH3qzQ2d4ivTOAemqCGzpnvV8K0iYQgC7dbBGg7zQYaFZmyfCdUcC9XgtmY7wunYlT4nfQcx6krW65FxGNfwT9Njl2zlRuyR-7igb_DQCkWjK5tco=w497-h662-s-no?authuser=0) ![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOohERTL9YkqK1NijJVl9E6ztJCFLypPZ5_zPlhn2vexAxCRp7zj99-ELfBhLMBRggX4kHYkp_rH3ebZWlXiQBvd_PYqL4bdtTUTauFAle8vQopepMDdobBMlKjDhpqYkZtd0lCHLgtxbFO1h6c7y9_=w497-h662-s-no?authuser=0) Still need to smooth a few nicks and edges. also drill the screw hole to hold the light fitting in place. Just one more to make.
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