Post by perthwa on Jan 18, 2023 12:15:04 GMT
More on the brakes: Learning curve.
As I proceed along this later model Ford Focus adaptation into the Sonic 7 which is based around a Mark 1 Focus, I realise that it has been a big learning curve. When I removed the original front Wheel Bearings, I must have looked in the on-line manual that I had and saw that the units were normally supplied as a bearing and hub. I used a hack saw to remove the bearing as shown above. Of course all of the documentation in this site and most others are based on the separate bearing being pressed in, circlip added and then the wheel hub being pressed in and then drive shaft installed. The bearings are pressed in from the inside and a circlip installed.
Here is one from another build from this site.
The Mark 2 Focus is press fit from the wheel side and there is no need for a circlip as the drive shaft bolt holds it in place. Well, actually friction from the press fit probably holds in place... but
NOW The bearing housing above has about equal material above and below the upright. sound reasonable.
If you look at the bearing and hub in a very close approximation of their real location, there appears to be about 100% of the bearing on the wheel side.
Now this photo has no disk in place so the next one.
Tomorrow I will put the brake pads in place and do up a few bolts to make some measurement.
Here is a top view.
Regardless of how much protrudes, I now have some decisions to make about how I fix the housing to the Upright:
1. Do I just mill the hole thing out to the 95 mm hole in the upright and weld it from both sides?
2. Do I make a flange on the wheel side that is out to the 120mm size and then use the four bolt holes to hold it in place?
3. Do I make a flange on the inboard side and pass the 95mm shaft through the hole and then bolt from the wheel side?
4. Like 3 except make the flange big enough to become threaded and just use bolts from wheel side.
1 will be hard to make sure that it is parallel etc.
2 will put all of the loading on the lower bolt and just use the 4 bolt strength to support a quarter or more of the car weight
3 will allow the upright to support the housing and better distribute the torque forces acting on the bolts and will use the overall structure of the upright for spreading the load.
4. possible yes but a bit more mass.
Here are some sketches... Thoughts?
Decided to see if I had a photo of the Rocket uprights... not sure about the gap at the top of the strengthening bracket... looks a bit like a crack.. but might just be a gap... NB this is mark one focus bearing and hub.
This is option 2 except that they tapped the flange on the wheel side and bolted from the engine side.
so a fifth option.
As I proceed along this later model Ford Focus adaptation into the Sonic 7 which is based around a Mark 1 Focus, I realise that it has been a big learning curve. When I removed the original front Wheel Bearings, I must have looked in the on-line manual that I had and saw that the units were normally supplied as a bearing and hub. I used a hack saw to remove the bearing as shown above. Of course all of the documentation in this site and most others are based on the separate bearing being pressed in, circlip added and then the wheel hub being pressed in and then drive shaft installed. The bearings are pressed in from the inside and a circlip installed.
Here is one from another build from this site.
The Mark 2 Focus is press fit from the wheel side and there is no need for a circlip as the drive shaft bolt holds it in place. Well, actually friction from the press fit probably holds in place... but
NOW The bearing housing above has about equal material above and below the upright. sound reasonable.
If you look at the bearing and hub in a very close approximation of their real location, there appears to be about 100% of the bearing on the wheel side.
Now this photo has no disk in place so the next one.
Tomorrow I will put the brake pads in place and do up a few bolts to make some measurement.
Here is a top view.
Regardless of how much protrudes, I now have some decisions to make about how I fix the housing to the Upright:
1. Do I just mill the hole thing out to the 95 mm hole in the upright and weld it from both sides?
2. Do I make a flange on the wheel side that is out to the 120mm size and then use the four bolt holes to hold it in place?
3. Do I make a flange on the inboard side and pass the 95mm shaft through the hole and then bolt from the wheel side?
4. Like 3 except make the flange big enough to become threaded and just use bolts from wheel side.
1 will be hard to make sure that it is parallel etc.
2 will put all of the loading on the lower bolt and just use the 4 bolt strength to support a quarter or more of the car weight
3 will allow the upright to support the housing and better distribute the torque forces acting on the bolts and will use the overall structure of the upright for spreading the load.
4. possible yes but a bit more mass.
Here are some sketches... Thoughts?
Decided to see if I had a photo of the Rocket uprights... not sure about the gap at the top of the strengthening bracket... looks a bit like a crack.. but might just be a gap... NB this is mark one focus bearing and hub.
This is option 2 except that they tapped the flange on the wheel side and bolted from the engine side.
so a fifth option.