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Post by buildityourself on May 9, 2021 19:23:29 GMT
Rear Uprights and bearing replacementFirst item to work out on the rear uprights was the position of the wheel arch stay brackets so I decided to work it out by fitting as they didn't come pre drilled. To do this the desired height above the tyres was found by packing out the arch with scrap rubber strips. The stays were then clamped to the upright to get the right clearance. The clearance to the body isn't correct in this image as the arch is sat on the stay. The bracket holes were marked and drilled. This is all theory at this stage so won't actually know until everything is fitted if they are in the right place! Treated the uprights with rust converter as they had been bare for a few years and slight surface rust. Uprights finally powder coated. The new Focus wheel bearings were then pressed into the uprights. To do this I bought a 5mm thick 71mm circular disc to push on the bearing outer edge. Bearing secured with supplied circlip. Feeling pleased with how this went the Focus hub was pressed into the bearing. It was immediately after that I realised that this should n't have been done yet, as needed to check the driveshaft clearance first to allow the shaft to move freely through the bearing centre. Stupidly I tried to press the hub out, which destroyed the bearing and left the inner race on the hub like when they were removed from the Focus. One destroyed brand new bearing stuck in the upright :-( I did n't have any ideal how to press this out of the upright as the outer part of the bearing is hidden behind the face of the upright housing. After a bit on unsuccessful googling on Focus bearing removal and MEV groups, I realised that destroying and removing the ball bearing cage and balls reveals the inner outer race which can be used to press it out. I've included details of this as I don't think anyone has really replaced bearings before so the info might help in the future. This can be pressed on using a 61mm disc which I bought to do this. What the bearing looks like stripped down. How the disc pushed the bearing out. With this all back to the previous stage, the washers for the driveshafts were chamfered to ensure that they fitted the profile of the driveshaft. This is critical to ensure that it doesn't prevent the driveshaft nut taking out any play. Rear wheels fitted for the first time with 50mm spacers. The driveshaft nuts are supposed to be 320 NM which is way higher than my torque wrench (and explains why they were so hard to remove from the Focus) so wondering how everyone tightens these?
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Post by buildityourself on Jun 10, 2021 20:38:42 GMT
Brake PadsSlotted in the front brake pads in the highspec calipers and tried to fit the retaining springs. Could not work out how they were supposed to fit and no instructions were supplied. Quick google image search showed the I'd been supplied springs for the Midi not minilite calipers. Rather than raising with the supplier and sending back etc, simply cut and bent them down to the correct size. Spent ages measuring and trying to workout where to exactly drill the holes for the brake hoses. Rear brake pads were slotted in and could not get the caliper to align with the carrier brackets. Initially this looked like the springs were too strong, but after head scratching finally noticed that the rear of the pads had a nodule that is supposed to slot into a channel in the piston. This wasn't aligned, and when it was it went much further but still the bolts would not line up. The aftermarket calipers and pads from the same german manufacture did not fit together. The nodule on the pads was filled down so that it fitted into the slot and then the calipers lined up perfectly. Once this was on, I noticed a new problem. The pads overhang the discs. This is shown below and the carrier bracket has a large gap to the edge of the disc confirming that the hub and carrier alignment is not correct. The carrier position can't be moved without modifying the uprights, and the hub position can't be moved without scrapping the uprights. After the wheel bearing episode in the last post, this was not an option. Left this problem for a while for some research, but then came back to with a solution. I looked at switching to ST170 discs/carriers, but this would just move the problem further out. Custom discs I couldn't even get a quote back for. Using an online brake disc catalogue, I found some larger diameter discs. Quotes to purchase/reduce the diameter of larger sierra cosworth discs with the correct PCD was expensive. But a set with a suitable diameter was found from a recent model Hyundai, however they had the wrong PCD pattern and a larger centre bore. A spare ford 4x108 hub was purchased to use as a template, and new PCD holes were drilled into the discs. This was really easy as the cast disc metal was really soft. Using a set of alloy wheel spigot rings the centre bore was resolved easily. Knowing that people run wheels without these, I'm confident this is much safer and will prevent any balance issues. Once fitted the clearance to the carrier bracket is now smaller and there is a couple mm of disc on the outside of the pad now, so the full pad is running on the disc. Problem solved. Admittedly replacing the discs in the future won't be as straight forward as it should be, but on the rear I don't see this being for many years, and is better than modifying pads etc.
More brake sagas next time.
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Post by buildityourself on Jul 5, 2021 20:51:21 GMT
Brake bleedingNow was time to fill the braking circuits with fluid, bleed and test the system. As we used the focus reservoir this feeds both the front and rear circuits but started by bleeding the front circuit. After a couple of goes the air was removed and the same done for the rears, with the calipers fitted as they are mounted the correct way up for bleeding. The pedal felt a bit soft sometimes, and after checking various small leaks were found and tightened up. However after then reapplying pressure and checking various joints after 30 mins, there would be a tiny drop of fluid on a few joints, that could only be found using a piece of paper towel. These were tightened slightly further, but the weeping joints still left a tiny drop after long periods. The joints would not tighten any more but the same problem existed. After examining the offending T-pieces it was found that the supplied short unions were running out of thread before the joint had fully sealed, to the point that the hex head of the union was touching the body of the joint. At this point I was really regretting not pressure testing the pipes somehow or just using flexi hoses throughout. This was really one of the low points of the build. The next step was to remove the T-pieces to attempt to understand the problem. Unfortunately due to the positioning of the front T-piece, this meant removing the EVAP canister and loosing the fuel tank to allow a spanner to get access to the joints fully for removal. Due to the nature of the T, the clips for one pipe had to be removed to allow movement for removal. With the T-joint removed and examination of the pipe flares, which were not crushed, I concluded that the T-joints must have been machined too deep for the short unions that were supplied with them. Fitting longer unions was not an option as this would mean remaking the kunifer hardlines, and dismantling half the car in the process. The only option was to attempt to reduce the height of the T-piece ports slightly to allow the thread to seat further. I carefully filed down the tips of the union to allow the head of the union to clear the union. Then I cleaned the joint with brake cleaner and refitted. Whilst previously researching brake leaks, I found a useful video on youtube that showed how to seat a brake flare correctly. After applying this approach and refilling and bleeding the joints are now dry. I'm not sure this will be the final post about the brakes as the master cylinder sizes were a bit of a guess so its quite likely that one of these may have to change when we try to setup the bias correctly. A WARNING to future builders, be wary of buying T-joints and using with short unions, as the quality of them may mean they don't work as intended.
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Post by buildityourself on Jul 6, 2021 20:50:15 GMT
Handbrake BracketsAs previously mentioned I wanted to avoid mounting the rear calipers upside down as the build manual instructs. With the calipers fitted so the bleed nipple was correctly at the top and the handbrake cable bracket loose. I worked out the desired route for the cable. To test this a modified bracket was modelled in CAD, and a 3D printed prototype was made. I had looked into getting these fabricated and received quotes, however when the order was placed the fabricator suddenly said it wasn't possible to form the brackets without specialised tooling. This project was then put on hold with plenty of other tasks to work on. However it now had got to the point where the brakes were the only item preventing a movable car. With this in mind and the amount of fabrication experience achieved in the mean time on the build I decided to have a go at modifying the original brackets myself. First I marked out a piece of additional metal required in some flat bar. This was then cut out to fit the existing bracket. Then tacked into place. And then fully welded together. A new mounting hole was marked and drilled in the new position. I left the original hole as a backup. The brackets were test fitted and these photos show the new cable routing. This clears the driveshaft boot and the wishbones. The bracket sets were then powder coated as the new metal was not zinc plated. This turned out to be much simpler to do DIY than I originally thought back at the beginning and am pleased with the result.
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Post by buildityourself on Aug 3, 2021 20:28:51 GMT
First Engine StartGetting a bit behind with updates, but it was finally time to attempt to start the engine in the kit. This is probably quite late in a build to be doing this with all the wiring/body fitted as if anything is wrong it could be problematic to correct. However as we were keeping the Ford ECU and wiring loom, its really only the extension looms that pose a risk and most of the sensors/power feeds have been previously checked etc. We put the rear wheels and 50mm alloy spacers on to ensure that the brake discs were secured. We put 2.5 litres of fuel in the tank, intentionally low incase the fuel tank had to come out etc. Battery charged, oil filled and checked. The engine was cranked over with the fuel cut off switch still off until oil pressure was seen on the dash. The fuel cut off switch was then reset. The ignition was turned on to prime the fuel pump, which sounded dry initially but could then hear the fuel moving through. Ready with the video camera to capture the moment, and the engine cranked. Nothing not a cough or splutter. We checked there was a spark at the spark plug to ensure that the engine earths were all good which was fine. A few more attempts and still nothing, but it was clear that there was not smell of fuel from the exhaust so it had to be fuel related. We checked that we had fuel at the injector rail which we did, and also that it was being returned to the tank from the pressure regulator which it was. But still no fuel smell or sign of combustion. It was at this point where I started thinking of ECU/injectorwiring issues or that when we changed the cambelt something had gone horribly wrong causing the cam timing to be way out. At this point it was lets try some easystart in the intake to prove it either way. Splutter, bang splutter, bang. It ran to an extent but sounded pretty rough. Indicating that all looked pretty good engine wise, so focus was clearly on the fueling system. Checked that the feed/return and evap pipes were all connected correctly as they all run together so it could be been easy to muddle them up at each end, but they were all ok. With everything checked, except only maybe the fuel pump or injectors not eliminated. Michael said are you sure you have enough fuel which I dismissed initially due to the above, but after a fuel more suggestions we added another 1.5 litres of fuel an tried to start it again. It sputtered into life an sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders as it was shaking about and sounded pretty rough. So it looks like that while fuel was going through the system it was aerated or not sufficient pressure for the injectors to function correctly. After a bit of light revving it then suddenly settled down and ran really smoothly and sounded quite good considering the home designed exhaust system. This clip shows it once it had been running and fully warmed up. The drivers side wheel was spinning just from the fluid drag in the gearbox. It was very frustrating that the simplest thing was the cause and overlooked, but it was a good learning process for Michael to experience when an engine won't start and the diagnostic process. The engine starts immediately too, and the engine temps all stayed in the middle of the gauge without any fan cutting in so the radiator/pipe runs seemed to be cooling ok stationary. Such a milestone in the build and very satisfying.
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Post by buildityourself on Aug 17, 2021 19:32:34 GMT
Off the trestles
Now the engine had been run successfully, the next task was get the car off the build trestles. This was going to be a challenge as it was quite high off the ground. First blocks of wood were used to support the jack and to lower the rear wheels onto. After raising the chassis the rear trestle could be removed. The rear was lowered down onto the blocks. The next step was to lower the front by the same amount to take the car down in equal stages. This was repeated at both ends. Until the car sat on the ground on its tyres for the first time. The first impression was, how low the Sonic7 is, especially as we were used to it being at normal car height up to now. Of course the obvious milestone to do next was to drive it out of the garage into the sunshine for the first time. Handbrake wasn't fitted at this point so they needed adding next!! Lights and seats to follow.
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Post by buildityourself on Sept 19, 2021 19:39:27 GMT
Rear LightsThe original number plate lights from the Focus were reused and holes cut out out in the rear panel. For the main rear lights some aftermarket LED combined side, brake and indicator ones with a built in reflector were chosen. We have gone for something different to the round/oval ones fitted to most Sonics. The first stage was to make some brackets to secure these to the body. This had to take into account the angle of the body to keep the lights vertical from the side and the rear. This all went to plan until it came to bend them when I forgot that they were handed and folded it the wrong way. So the brackets aren't perfectly level but still work perfectly. These were powder coated. The finished pair. The side pods were drilled for the brackets. The rear lights must be at least 350mm from the ground and no more than 400mm from the outside of the vehicle, so this pretty much dictated their position. (excluded reflectors) Fitted to the car. The connector goes through the large hole in the bracket, which is covered with a rubber grommet. As the indicators are LED's they need a resistor to compensate for the lack of resistance to ensure that the indicator flasher delay works correctly. The front indicators are normal bulbs, so only a 25W resistor is needed. If you replace both front/rear you need 50W. These need to dissipate a lot of heat so some alloy mounting pads were made to bolt them to the chassis. For the fog and reversing lights they are also LED. We have gone for slim rectangular ones to compliment the rear lights, and to bring together these are going to be mounted vertically. This means using a rectangular rear number plate (marked out) which is quite unusual but I like the look of these. Since doing this I have some doubts about IVA as the IVA test plate is much larger (seems to align with Euro plate sizes) and I'm unsure if I will come unstuck here even though there is plenty of room for the actual plate. The rear panel was cut out. The fog light must be above 250mm from the ground. The lights are recessed fitted with a rubber mounting, but this is designed for sheet metal, so the thicker GRP panel cause a few issues so had to be trimmed. Fitted. The finished rear illuminations! Pleased with the look and it makes our Sonic7 unique from others.
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Post by buildityourself on Sept 21, 2021 20:12:26 GMT
Front Headlights
The front headlights came without any wiring diagram, with 3 wires for the dipped/main beam. And 2 wires for the side lights. I was expecting these to be 4 wire to match the focus wiring and the 4 pin connectors I was going to use, so the earths were looped to reduce it to 4 wires. These were wired up assuming the black was earth, and then the brightest output main, and the dimmer filament for dipped. However when positioned on the car and tested the main beam was dim and the dipped beam bright. Just a reminder that the Focus wiring had previously been modified so when main is on dipped is off, as otherwise both the main/dipped elements are live when on main beam on the focus as they are separate headlight bulbs. You can't do this in the dominators other wise the heat will damage the bulb or even headlight. It turned out black wasn't the earth, and meant that when on main beam it was running through both filaments. Once swapped over they looked better. Although bit disappointed with the dead spot on the bottom of main beam. The head lights mounted direct on the brackets are lower than the IVA minimum height of 500mm measurement, but there is the following addition in the text. My intepretation of this is to the half way point of the lens as only the top half of the lens is illuminated on dipped, however just in case I found these Mini wheel spacer nuts that have the same imperial thread of the headlights to raise their position. Not sure whether to risk IVA without and take them with me incase, or just fit anyway.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 22, 2021 19:36:46 GMT
Fit them for IVA the more examples of doing things to the book the better. Human nature says that if you find something wrong you then look even harder for more.
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Post by buildityourself on Sept 23, 2021 19:26:13 GMT
Fit them for IVA the more examples of doing things to the book the better. Human nature says that if you find something wrong you then look even harder for more. Thats very wise advice. Thanks.
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Post by buildityourself on Oct 8, 2021 19:59:10 GMT
SeatsThis was one of the tasks that I was least looking forward to. The kit supplied seats are literally just GRP shells without any mountings and are a complicated shape requiring bends and angles etc in any mountings. I purchased 2 pairs of universal kit car runners so they would have adjustment which would be crucial for different height drivers. These are about 1" high which will raise the seats and I didn't want to go much higher than this to keep the driving position low. The other consideration was what angle to mount the seats at as the backrest is not adjustable. After repeatedly sitting in them it was decided that they were more comfy if angled back slightly as the body pressure is spread through the back not just the bottom. Once the angle had been determined by measuring whilst rocking the seat, then some wooden triangular blocks were made after measuring the angles required. The runners were screwed to a piece of plywood in the correct place. The wooden blocks screwed to the runners. The seat was positioned on top to check the angle. Then checked in the car to make sure it felt right. I went to the local black smith to see if he could supply some steel bent to follow the shape of the wooden templates, but after discussion he recommended bracing the brackets to reduce the thickness and welding instead of bending. I considered doing this at home but decided to get them made to save a weekend or two of fabrication. These were rust treated and powdercoated. Brackets were bolted to the runners and chassis foam positioned on the runners that would contact the seats. Due to the position of the brackets I didn't want to use dome head bolts to secure the seats to the brackets as they would have been under my legs or buttock. So the seat was bonded to the brackets in the correct position. In theory this should be secure enough, but I didn't want to take any chances so decided that in addition to the bonding I would glass fibre the brackets to the seats also to make them integral to the seats. The runner adjusters needed "adjusting" as the runners needed to be closer than they are designed for. The finished seat.
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Post by wishful4444 on Oct 11, 2021 13:42:35 GMT
My seats have very thin padding. After about twenty minutes of driving the base of my spine starts to ache where it is against the seat back. I bought a small cushion pad from ebay which provides the extra padding required and is not too thick. I mention it just in case you have a similar problem.
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Post by buildityourself on Oct 22, 2021 20:14:05 GMT
Battery and footrest
To help with weight distribution, decided to locate the battery in the passenger footwell. The Ford Focus battery while working when removed was quite old so looked at alternatives. Due to the limited electrics compared with the original I decide to try out one of the compact racing type batteries. In this case the Odessey PC680. This needed a set of SAE posts to allow the standard connectors to be used rather than 6mm terminals which seemed a bit small. To avoid another weekend of fabrication I cheated and bought a battery cage for the battery. This was powdercoated and bolted to the floor to secure the battery. To protect/cover the battery we bought a rally style footrest for the passenger which would be fitted over the battery. The foot rest was preformed and not ideal for containing the battery. The rear bend was flattened out. This made the rest deeper, which pushed the foot rest nearer to the seat, so to help the lanky one it was then shortened and angled to take into account the angled side panel to ensure that the rest was central with the seat. This was bolted to the floor and the front bulkhead. Drilling and rivnuting the front bulk head with the fuel tank behind was scary. In hindsight we should have fitted this much earlier. To protect the battery from items dropping through the holes, a piece of composite was cut to be bonded to the back of the foot rest. It was also powder coated Kawasaki Green to match the body. This won't be fitted until later to allow easy access to the battery during the build, as one draw back with the racing batteries is that you can't risk them flattening with any led/clock drain etc. Will need to add a trickle charge connection lead at some point.
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Post by buildityourself on Nov 18, 2021 19:26:35 GMT
Another update for those interested. Seat Harness holesOrdered a pair of TRS harnesses with short shoulder straps for kit cars, so the first step was to cut out the seats for the harnesses to pass through. Marking out the holes in the right place was tricky due to the shape of the seats and trying to position to allow for different occupant heights etc, but a template was made in card so at least they would be roughly the same. Drilling and cutting out the holes, went undersize to start with to be sure. First test fit on the shoulder holes. Marked out the lap strap hole positions. Always scary drilling/cutting GRP, but you just have to go for it. Next was cutting and fitting edge trim to the holes. Another update soon....
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 21, 2021 18:10:57 GMT
Make sure that the lower straps are across your pelvis and not your stomach.
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