Logan's build MO

[Stiggy]

Hi, if you go to edit and click "add image to post" on the top line it is quick and painless.

[buildercg]

Aug 14, 2017 14:40:17 GMT rc58 said:

Well thanks to Photobucket I am going to need to find a new hosting site. What do you all use? Is it free? Or is there a better way to post pictures without using them.


When getting the rear sub frame separated from the diff I snapped all of the 12mm studs except 1. Anyone else run into this? Would like to know before I fight drilling them out if there is an easier way.

I use Imgur.com to manage photos and link to them.

I had two of the 12mm studs snap on my rear sub frame. I drilled out the studs and replaced with grade 8 12mm bolts, which I sourced from McMaster Carr.

[rc58]

My wife will kill me if she finds out I went on a shopping spree.

Fab9
Race Timing belt Water pump kit (because race car)
Crank/ Cam seals and valve cover gasket

Flyin Miata
Complete Rubber Bushing set

Hawley Performance
Coolant reroute parts

Exomotive
Fuel Line Kit
Brake line Kit

Local
EGR Delete Plug 1996 Dodge Cummins diesel oil plug.
Gates 22436 Hose
Heater Core block off (Gates 18701)

Going to be some fun presents to open.

[rc58]

Is this much offset unnecessary for the width of rim?

www.racinglab.com/ROTA-Grid-Classic-Wheel-15x9-p/rota-grid-v-159-4100-15-67.htm

[rc58]

Waiting on camber bolts to start putting this back together. Need to get into plumbing the fuel and brake lines but nice weather has the kids outside "Helping" and making it hard to start in on it. 

[nakedbee]

I'm running a 15x9 with a zero offset and they work out just fine, no spacers needed so if I'm reading it correctly its a -15mm. So it will just stick out a little more no big deal.

[rc58]

Well I started putting things in place now that most of the parts are cleaned up. Still having major issues with my rear uprights. The lower control arm bolt is seized in there tight. I have drilled out 90% of the bolt and beat on it and still cant get it to budge. Going to see what my local machine shop wants to get it out and then will make my decision to do that or to buy one online. 

I have not torqued anything down because I read that the suspension needs to be under load when torqued. I am pleased with how it looks so far. And cant wait to get it on its wheels and get the chassis mated with the skate. Going to tap the PPF for fuel and brake lines so that I can get them roughly put in place. 

On another bright note have a guy coming to pick up a truck full of parts. So that will be good for the old parts budget. 

[gwnwar]

Try checking Craigslist around you for for auto parts miata for people parting out miata..
Call Travis in ILL he parts cars. 618-751-1821..
I have a pair from a 1.8 car '96 don't know if they will work.. Iam in Fayetteville..

[rc58]

100 bucks for the pair then shipping. Going to give it another try with my drill press tonight got a narrow step bit to see if that will help.

In trying to depower my rack I ran in to a lot of rust. To the point where heat and pb blaster werent doing anything. Rather than breaking it trying to get apart and ruining it I ended up ordering a used power steering rack. Got it all apart and depowered last night and back on the sub frame. Picking up new Tie rod ends today and a few castle nuts so I can button up the front end. If I can make progress on the Rear knuckles I hope to have it on its wheels soon.

[rc58]

Okay so I have done a good little bit of work but its obviously been over the last couple months. I have the rollerskate all put back together. Pulled off the boat anchor of a manifold and am replacing it with a Raceland 4-2-1. Have not put it on but got the part today and it looks really good. Brakes have all been rebuilt and are in place. Bought a tap to thread the PPF where I am going to mount my Brake and fuel lines but havnt had the time with sick kids, weekends and long hours at work. The fact that it is back on its wheels after being a pile of parts for so long has me reinvigorated to get back to it.

[rc58]

Back with another update. Got to spend a solid couple hours Saturday doing some work on the car. Some of this was used fetching parts but not going to complain. Ended up painting the drivers side of the block with high temp engine block paint and while I was doing it I hit did the driveshaft and the front of the differential housing. Now everything looks clean.



I tapped and mounted my fuel and brake lines to the PPF and think it will work great. Enough slack where there needs to be, room where I was worried about pinching and I covered it the brake lines with clear tube to keep it from rubbing in areas that I questioned.




Mounted my Raceland exhaust and just like the internet tells you fitment isnt perfect. Hammer and a grinder got the things into order and now it has about 2-3mm of space all the way out. But I think it looks great. One of the only reasons I painted the block was because next to the exhaust it looked like crap being rust brown.



Got the correct bolt lengths to finish installing my coolant re route. I went with the Hawley as I previously said and it was very straight forward. If anyone does buy it make sure to order it with the install kit. Will save you time and is pretty much a wash from sourcing the parts yourself.

I dont have anything right now that is holding me up from putting the body on the chassis other than the holiday and lack of friends wanting to come help. Going to try and borrow the hoist again and do it by myself.

Is there anything that you all wish you would have done before putting the Chassis on the skate?

[rc58]

I lied. Decided to do the timing belt and water pump before the body. So finished that this weekend. No pictures and as a certified YouTube Mechanic I am pretty sure it will still run when I get it wired up.

[rc58]

Little update 

Got the Skate and the chassis mated this weekend. Everything lined up great and it went on relatively easily. 

Put the KYB AGX shocks and springs under it and thats where it is today. I know I will be staring at it a lot in this configuration for a while when doing all the wiring but its nice to see a big chunk come together. 





Side update.

I was able to talk my wife into letting me get another couple Miatas Both NB1s. (She is a enabler) They were to good of deals to pass up. One has 84000 miles 2 owner and was stuffed between two parked cars in a parking lot. Damage stayed in the fenders bumper and hood. It is a high option car with tan leather, bose, sports suspension package (Bilstien). Plan on keeping this one for a while.

The other is a buddy of mines car that got hit in the drivers rear quarter and got paid off by the other guys insurance and they offered him a $575 buy back. He doesnt have time to mess with it. It has a hard dog roll bar, koni 1150 adjustable coil overs, trak-lite rims and a clean front clip that I plan on transferring over to the low mile car then selling the rest as a roller. It has a LSD and some other performance parts but he ran it low on oil and the motor probably needs more attention than I can give it. If anyone is looking for a donor and planning to do a motor swap this one would be Ideal. Give me a shout. 

[ddoggxxx]

What's the mileage on the one your wanting to be rid of?  I'm a bit jealous really.  Kind of a nice problem to have.

Darren

[rc58]

Unfortunately my "friend" flaked on me and sold the silver one it to another guy. Which puts me in the bad spot of having to source new parts for the green 2000 Which I bought thinking the grey one was locked down. Trying to decide how much I want to spend on this. With having the exocet in mid project mode I may put it off to the side for the next few months.

Darren I am going to shoot you a DM.