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Post by rc58 on Jun 12, 2017 21:34:14 GMT
We it started in earnest this weekend. I started tearing into the Miata. I have taken off most parts that didnt need wiring to be labeled. This is where it sat last night. Yes my shop is a mess. We downsized into a rental to save up on building our next home. Luckily the rental comes with a HUGE shop with great concrete floors but AWFUL wiring.     You can see its future waiting in the wings. Question to those who have came before me. What have you had the best luck with as far as selling parts? Is Craigslist the end all be all for that? Which Miata forums would be worth joining? Thanks, RC58 |
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Post by buildercg on Jun 12, 2017 22:04:03 GMT
Welcome and congrats on starting the build. I like the color of the frame.
Craigslist, which is where I sold my parts, can be super frustrating with no-shows and hundreds of questions. It worked out okay for me in the end but I got blown off on prearranged "appointments" and met more than a couple of suspicious characters.
I eventually recouped about 2/3rd of my donor cost with my hard top and soft top accounting for a significant portion of that.
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Post by dnr on Jun 13, 2017 17:46:50 GMT
I've sold about $1200 worth of parts from my donor on eBay. Fees + shipping really adds up but I've had zero problems (Use priority flat rate padded envelopes for as much as possible!) Sold big stuff like the trunk, bumper, top, on Craigslist. I think I've sold about half of the parts so far. Looks like it shouldn't be a problem getting the $2200 I paid for the donor back. It is a lot of work though.
I still need to get rid of the unibody.
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 14, 2017 5:22:11 GMT
Welcome to the forum.. Were in MO are you..I am down in Fayetteville AR.. Both Craigslist and ebay work OK, if you price the parts lower then others they will sell. Do you do Paypal.. If not start an account.. Join the Miata.net forum www.miata.net/.. They have a classified Section to sell parts. With being new you will have to pay to be a supporting member $22.95 just to sell parts.. Go to miata.net then down to Buy/sell/trade.. then For Sale.. move down to bottom of page to the Announcement Read This. There is also a good Garage section for info.. My sign on there and here is the same gwnwar.. Stay safe ask questions |
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Post by dietcoke on Jun 15, 2017 8:10:20 GMT
Good luck. If you need to take a look at one I'm 2 hours west of MO in Manhattan, KS
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Post by rc58 on Jun 19, 2017 14:05:52 GMT
Had a fathers day weekend where the gift was me having time to myself to work on the strip down of the Miata. I was able to get the harness pulled through the firewall and into the engine bay. Got the rack out, sway bar disconnected, and the steering column disconnected and pulled.  Glad to hear there are a few Exocets close to me. Dietcoke I graduated from Kansas State. Planning on making it to a football game this fall. Will have to look you up when I do. gwnwar I am about an hour and a half north of you outside of Cassville. Not going to lie I did a little dance when you said your from Fayettville. Always good to have the guy who answers all the questions nearby. This is where I ended last night. Was pleased to see a stripped cockpit. Started going nuts with WD40 and liquid wrench on every old bolt on the underside. Some are going to fight pretty hard. Next on the list. Get the car on stands. Bleed the brakes. Disconnect clutch master. And another round of wd40. I was really fired up to get this thing running by the 4th of July. As I have started cranking more nuts I have realized that the subframes are going to be an eyesore in their current state. I am not going to rush it and wish I had taken more time in a year or two. So now I plan on getting them out sand blasted and powder coated. Will probably go black just for the ease of making it match. This also means new bushing all the way around. Questions I have right now. How much of the build was the tear down % wise on your builds? Am I the only idiot that pulled the wiring into the engine bay? Did you all keep the Power Steering operational? My plan was to depower it but could use some input. Did you all re use the hardware or replace it? Since I plan on using this like I did my old motorcycle I wondered about the expense and ability to get stainless to replace the coated steel In case it runs through some rain. Not planning on driving it in the winter. |
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Post by buildercg on Jun 19, 2017 16:55:51 GMT
Questions I have right now. How much of the build was the tear down % wise on your builds? Am I the only idiot that pulled the wiring into the engine bay? Did you all keep the Power Steering operational? My plan was to depower it but could use some input. Did you all re use the hardware or replace it? Since I plan on using this like I did my old motorcycle I wondered about the expense and ability to get stainless to replace the coated steel In case it runs through some rain. Not planning on driving it in the winter. My build took almost exactly 16 months from the time I started tearing about my donor. The teardown took about 5 months (nights and weekends) and I had about a total of about 5 months of little to no activity due to cold temperature/unheated work location and/or waiting for powdercoating to be completed by vendor. I did not rebuild my engine. I pulled my wiring harness into the cabin area. The previous owner of my donor had depowered the steering rack via loop technique. I used Flyin Miata's instructions to complete the depowering and remove the loop though I did not perform the welding step to remove the play. I replaced all fuel and brake lines mostly because mine were in bad shape. I re-used as many bolts as I could on the suspension and body but had to cut and/or severely damaged several while taking my donor apart. I purchased new bolts to mount my coilovers (lower bolts, because they all had to be cut off) and new alignment bolts. I purchased and installed more than 50 additional grade 8 and grade 10 13mm bolts to attach various parts and I also have more than 50 grade 8 10mm bolts on the car. Most of the 10mm bolts are used in replacement of rivets. |
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Post by rc58 on Jun 19, 2017 17:36:42 GMT
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Post by buildercg on Jun 19, 2017 17:52:56 GMT
That's a great deal. My new from the factory Corbeau seats with sliders cost over $1000. I had to modify the sliders to fit the Exocet square tubing and allow for the 5 point harness. |
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 20, 2017 18:07:02 GMT
Have you loosened the rear center axle nuts.. If not do it before lifting the car so you can block the wheels and still have E brake installed. Some fuel tanks have a drain bottom, front, left side.. Red tag all grounds will help you find not miss them later..
Use 6 point sockets on underside bolts/nuts. Wire brush threads a little helps too. Have you made up the 4 8" 2x4 or tubing to put
in the inner end of the top a arms and the lower shock before pulling body off so you can roll the skate out from under body. Then you can roll it outside to pressure wash degrease it. Walmart has the cheapest Gunk spray cans. Have fun stay safe think twice..
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Post by rc58 on Jun 21, 2017 13:34:05 GMT
Nothing done last night as I went to pick up my seats. They are 1999 Forza Seats by the label. Can tell they have sat in the sun. Going to grab a can of the spray interior dye and see if I can get them looking a little nicer. Figure for 50 bucks it wasnt a bad buy even if they dont get used I think I can get my money back on them. Does anyone know if I will run into issues doing autocross with outdated seats? Should I still plan on finding a replacement for my drivers seat?  gwnwar Thanks for the tips. I already have the car up on blocks with the wheels off. I have a few ideas that I think will work for breaking the rear axle nut free. |
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Post by rc58 on Jul 10, 2017 14:10:03 GMT
Been a while since I have been able to do anything major on the project. I have a lot of things in the air right now. Currently gutting an old farm house in my hometown so that we can get moved back home to start farming with my folks. Lathe and plaster sucks but blown in fiberglass insulation is worse. Thats all I have to say on that. ONTO my Progress I was able to get some time and a buddy let be borrow his cherry picker. I had been up and under the car a dozen times making sure I had everything disconnected. Took the advice and took off the fuel tank bolts so that it would come free with the the running gear, boarded up the control arms and got the ground wires disconnected from the firewall. Ended up missing the O2 Sensor as I didnt figure it was bracketed to the frame. I did run into an issue but it was mainly just me wanting to get parts off the car. I took off the Steering rack earlier and the front wheels move independent of each other. A littler tougher time moving it around.  I am trying to figure out what all I need to get to plumb the fuel lines on the Exocet chassis. Are you able to re used them. Mine are in very good shape. That being said there are a bunch of caniseters that I was wondering if are needed going forward. Where I left it last night. 
Goals for now is to get the Chassis plumbed for brakes and fuel. Depower the steering rack. Wirebrush and clean everything up to see where I am at. If needed strip and take out for powder coating. Then start the rebuild. The guy who bought my hood asked if I had any use for a set of KYB AGX shocks. I have a feeling they wont work on the exocet perfectly but for the 20 bucks I knocked off the price of the hood I felt like I was in the black.  free cdn image hosting |
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Post by buildercg on Jul 10, 2017 15:55:10 GMT
I think the plastic canister is your charcoal canister. If so, it's required to pass emissions - should your state care and if you're trying to build street-legal. The small round canister is your fuel filter. Very important.
My fuel lines were in terrible shape and didn't think about re-using them. I replaced all the fuel lines with AN-6 braided steel line.
There should be a check valve installed on the fuel line as well. This is to prevent fuel spill in case of a crash.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 11, 2017 5:12:32 GMT
I would roll the skate out side and spray with cans of GUNK cheap at Walmart brush oil build up spot them power spray wash.
So you see what you have to do.. There is a hose kit available if you don't want to make up your own. If you make your own fuel brake lines it is real close at the rear of tunnel and rear sub frame.. Get some rubber split pipe insulation (Home Depot)to put on the frame so not to scratch it up while working..
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Post by rc58 on Aug 14, 2017 14:40:17 GMT
Well thanks to Photobucket I am going to need to find a new hosting site. What do you all use? Is it free? Or is there a better way to post pictures without using them. Had a buddy bring over his hot water pressure washer and cleaned off the frame with that. Took the grease off no issue. Have the control arms off of the skate rear sub frame off. Front sub-frame is in good enough shape going to try to paint it without removing the motor. After removing all the control arms only one of my rubber bushings is in bad enough shape to replace so instead of going the tough route of burning them all out and replacing all of them going to replace the one and then wire wheel the control arms and paint them in Rustoleum Hammered Silver.   Gave up trying to figure out all the parts I need for running the fuel lines to the chassis so am putting in an order with Exomotive today to get that coming. When getting the rear sub frame separated from the diff I snapped all of the 12mm studs except 1. Anyone else run into this? Would like to know before I fight drilling them out if there is an easier way. |
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