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Post by gwnwar on May 8, 2017 4:46:08 GMT
Has to have something to do with torque. For a little give.. It is just as written per the shop manual.. Hope you can get them out without damage..
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Post by mattd on May 13, 2017 18:13:38 GMT
So how much torque do you think that diff mount stud will take before it snaps? Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. The Mazdaspeed diff mount seems too long for the diff housing (though it looks the same as the factory one). When I try to tighten up the bottom mount, the center support hits long before the bushing itself snugs up. Did I miss something?
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Post by gwnwar on May 13, 2017 21:07:19 GMT
The center bushing bottoms out when tight and there will be a gap between the rubber tits and the metal for a little wiggle room..
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Post by mattd on May 14, 2017 0:03:06 GMT
The center bushing bottoms out when tight and there will be a gap between the rubber tits and the metal for a little wiggle room.. Hmmm, well right now I've got a 1/4" gap and can "wiggle" the diff probably 45 degrees front to back. Not liking that, would prefer the diff stay tight and let the suspension do its job. Do the poly bushings mount pretty solid or do they have a gap as well?
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Post by gwnwar on May 14, 2017 3:19:34 GMT
can you post pics from a little further so can see each side installed.
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Post by mattd on May 14, 2017 5:44:39 GMT
can you post pics from a little further so can see each side installed. One thought, the upper bushings are new while the lowers are original. Could be the originals shrunk over time and now have a mismatch. Otherwise, far as I can tell put them back the way they came apart.
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Post by gwnwar on May 14, 2017 14:53:51 GMT
Did you turn the bushings 90deg or leave them as first installed..
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Post by mattd on May 29, 2017 22:50:54 GMT
Ended up swapping out for poly bushings. Just didn't like the idea of my suspension mount points moving idependent of the rest of the chassis. Rock solid now.
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Post by darkling on May 30, 2017 7:01:32 GMT
good that upper pic was way off . you noticed the recess in the poly bushing and how they sit flat
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Post by phocup on May 31, 2017 16:26:13 GMT
Glad to see another SJ build ! We on our way to having more Exo than Miatas in the bay soon! I had a gap too when I installed the rubber diff bushing. Some research confirmed that its supposed to be there. I discussed it in my build thread ( mevowners.proboards.com/thread/8143/phocups-408-exo-build?page=6 ) and posted a confirmation from Keith Tanner there as well. Perhaps removing it via poly bushing will make it more performant with a stiffer driveline but at the cost of NVH.
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Post by mattd on Jul 21, 2017 3:46:11 GMT
Not a whole lot to report here. Mostly waiting for my chassis to be ready. I did manage to get my tire/wheel situation settled. Went with 15x8 JNC003 wheels with 205 DII Star Specs. I ran these tires (in 195 size) on my donor for a while and really liked them. Two things I noticed about the rims: 1. Having them drilled for two lug patterns sucks. I'm sure it saves money somewhere but makes them a pain to mount. 2. The center caps don't clear the rear axle nut. Given the track time I'm expecting I probably wouldn't run them anyways but just a note for others. Side note, if anyone needs stock wheels with good tires I have a set to get rid of.
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Post by calibuild on Jul 22, 2017 4:29:30 GMT
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that couldn't get the rear center caps to cover it. The dual lug nut pattern, you'll get over it. Annoying at first. Wait till you get to the fenders, mounting those so they perfectly match............. if you haven't pulled the front brake dust covers, might as well. You can do it later, but eh. Get some new spindle nuts.
Sell those stock rims!
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Post by rv8air on Aug 1, 2017 0:38:17 GMT
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Post by rv8air on Aug 1, 2017 0:40:15 GMT
Looks like we have quite a group here in the Bay Area. Getting ready to add one more! Going to be a bit of a slow start here, current lead time on the kit is about 3-4 months. Gives me a chance to get the chassis ready and do some more work in the garage. Had the car for a couple years now. Bought it explicitly to build an Exocet but decided to track it for a while first. Miata is on the track but I never really drive it on the street, just not enough entertainment value. With a bunch of track days out of the way I at least have a pretty good idea of what I'm working with. It's a '99 with 130k miles on it. Since buying the car I've done all the cam/crank seals, timing belt, track brakes, Flying Miata suspension, etc; Should be a decent starting point. Track day at Laguna Seca last year I'll be following your build with some interest. when your chassis arrives I'd like to pop down your way during the middle of the week to get a first-hand look.
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Post by mattd on Oct 8, 2017 1:32:28 GMT
Chassis showed up a couple weeks back. Just about 5 months from when I ordered it, not too bad. Thus far have been working on seat mounts. Spending way too much time on them but they, along with the radiator mounts are really the only two things I need to build from scratch for the car so figured I'd take the time to do it the way I want. Really wanted to use my Sparco side mounts but just not enough room so had to build from scratch. Just about finished but ran out of gas for the welder before I could burn them into the car. Decided to test mount the chassis so I could start to measure the radiator mounts. Will need to get more gas next week.
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