Northern turbo build.

[mscott]

I feel your pain with the Stub Axles  

I snapped both the Top Single Bolt on both of mine even after soaking the bolts from the Rear for 2 days and Pre-Heating with Mapp Gas as I removed them.

I was able to get them out after carefully drilling a pilot hole from the front in the Centre of what was left then going from one size to next larger from the rear eventually unscrewing what was left of the bolt.. What a relief.. Easy Out Stud Extractors were useless...





With your COPS, what was the Part Code for the Coils you used ?

I'm considering COPS on mine (after I finish rebuilding the rest of it)...

[sheffjohn]

Touch wood I don't think I snapped anything else when I stripped the car, I think they were the main culprits !

I can supply oe number for you, but I ended up using a different number to most people.
I think the mk2.5 rocker cover I'm using is slightly taller so the cops number I originally looked at (same as loads of people successfully run) was about 15mm too short.

It's coils that match oe Toyota number 90919-02234 that I'm using now.

[sheffjohn]

Flyscreen on,mounted on 25mmx4mm rubber washers to provide an air gap underneath. I'm told it helps air buffeting at speed. We will see !

Also rolled it outside for a quick wash, covered it in fibreglass dust from the following update

[sheffjohn]

Decided to go a for an alloy fuel tank. Found a fabricator via facebook who has a really good reputation, and gave me a good quote.
I wanted to build a fuel system capable of filling quickly, utilising full tank, being safe for high g corners, and the alloy tank has lost a good amount of weight from relatively high up.

It's a baffled tank, so should be minimal fuel slosh in the tank.





As you can see, the filler is at the rear. Decided I wanted quick access to my fuel system so wanted an option to take the rear cover off quickly. Having no fuel pipe connections from tank to cover, and the wiring to lights etc on a ten pin connector I'm wiring in, will make that easy.

Voila.





Number plate holder on hinges. Access to the filler neck. Top will be held in on clips or magnets (undecided yet).

Once iva is done, I may remove the bulky plate holder and just fit the hinges to the back of a trimmed down plate. Should make it sleeker.

[sheffjohn]

Front of the tank mountings. Borrowed some polybushes lying around the unit to mock up the height I needed, will be replaced with something else.




This is what I'm calling my 'fuel plate'.
It's 2.5mm alloy plate cut to the same shape as the tanks side profile.
It houses my entire fuel system, which is:
1. Tank.
2. High flow low pressure fuel pump (facet redtop).
3. Swirl tank (also from same fabricator)
4. Sytec high pressure pump.
5. Sytec high flow filter.
Off to engine.



Swirl tank is filled by the low pressure pump, and also the return line with the excess fuel from engine.
It's got an overflow on the top, which dumps back into tank.
It has 1 outlet at the bottom for the high pressure fuel pump.



That's where the fuel plate sits.
One of the lads is welding me some threaded bosses onto the side of the tank, which I can mount the plate onto.

[sheffjohn]

Fuel tank back from one of the lads with a tig set. He's welded me 6 bosses to the side of the tank so I can mount my fuel plate properly.





Rearmost pipe need to be replaced with clear for a manual fuel level gauge.



Now that's all properly mounted, I can make the supports which will hold the feed and return pipes down toward the ppf, and start to run them toward the engine.

[sheffjohn]

Seats.

Was planning on purchasing 2 jk composite sevens seats. Ended up finding a second hand one with bonded basemount I'm using for my passenger seat. I've made a raised bar for the nearside which matches the offside in height, when including the sliding rail for the offside.

The tunnel side mounts are too close to the tunnel to use a raised bar, so I've welded 2 separate tabs on
I'll grab some pics next time seat is out.





Drivers side is also done, I used this seat to make the mounting bars etc, Before moving it to the nearside.

[sheffjohn]

Brake time.

I've rebuilt calipers using a 'big red caliper kit', and painted in foliatec vintage copper brake set.

It's not as close as I hoped to the colour of the wheel rims, but it's not a million miles away, And I couldn't decide on another colour.

Stupidly didn't take any pictures, hands covered in brake fluid and crap doesn't bode well for phone usage.

The bigred kit seems really well made, seals and everything all fit snuggly.

Goodridge braided hoses bought (currently decent price through moss on eBay) and I've started to bend up the front brackets I'll weld onto the frame






Notes:
1. No pads fitted obviously. Still deciding on which to go for.
2. Can't decide if I've made a bad decision sticking with standard sizes brakes, think I'll end up upgrading really soon after bedding the car in.
3. Multifit wheels look crap close up in pictures.

[sheffjohn]

The theme of brakes continues.

It seems like a pretty easy setup to route the hardlines. I've bought a Goodridge braided flexible hose kit.

OSF is only 6" long, straight from master cylinder to the tab I've welded on main chassis tube.

NSF runs from mcyl, across bulkhead, follows tabs I've welded on (below) and to the matching tab on chassis tube which holds the Goodridge hose. Pretty basic tab with a 16mm (I think?) hole through it which uses the normal brake u clip to hold the hose.



Pipe will be redone in cupronickel when chassis goes back together.
Plan is still to build up fully, before stripping frame and sending of to powedercoat. Want to make sure I've got all tabs welded and any frame adjustments made before coat.

Rear line Seems easy to do. I have / will be mounting all front to rear lines onto the ppf. And the Goodridge hose on the OSR has a t-piece built in same as the oe setup.

[sheffjohn]

Delayed bank holiday long weekend for me this one, so hoping to get some stuff done!
Today's job was copper fuel lines.



They bend 90 down onto the top of ppf, then follow the ppf curve down onto the side,at the point where there is most clearance, then follow forwards as pictured.

The half blue scrap metal bracket I've made, is bolted through the chassis, and that gives me the middle 300mm mounting point that bridges between the ppf and the original mounting tab on the gearbox which holds the wiring loom to gearbox.

I will be remaking a bracket to Bolt to that gearbox 'tab' which will hold the fuel, brake, and starter cable.





The lower line is nylon pclipped to the ppf at 250-300mm intervals. Then the 2 Lines are clipped together at 200-250 intervals.

Below the fuel pipes you can see the start of my brake pipe clips. Rivnutted into the ppf (same as the fuel pipe clips) the lower "run" holds the starter cable at the top, and the brake pipe at the bottom.
Brake pipe to the NSR is Monday's job!





Roughly shaped into the engine bay. Return side is piped to the pressure reg

I'll need to make a bracket to support these lines pictured, to keep up with the 300mm limit and also as its a joint from solid to flexible lines.
Think I'll make a bracket to hold them that picks up on the clutch master cylinder bolts/studs, unless anywhere else seems clever.

I also need to support/tie in the rear radiator hose which is part of the coolant reroute which you can see in the above pic.
Will probably spend some time making one bracket that supports it all.