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Post by roger32849 on Mar 31, 2017 10:22:02 GMT
I got the TR1KE cooling system filled and purged. It was a bit of a bother with the purge part of it but nontheless,it is done. The cooling fans cycle on and off and it runs in the 180° to 200°F temp range.. mostly around 190°. The engine doesn't smoke, drip oil or coolant. I will be bleeding the brakes next then tweaking my clutch adjustment and installing the pedal stop.
Just an quick note. I insulated the cooling pipes with an aluminized covered wrap. It has a high temperature fiberglass underlay and is self adhesive. At close to 200°F, the insulation was quite comfortable to touch. I put a photo in my earlier post when I was in the process of installing it. I still have the package it came in and will provide a picture of it just in case anyone might be interested. It is good for up to 500°F direct contact, so it is great for the cooling tubes.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by davej98002 on Mar 31, 2017 16:41:05 GMT
One of the miss-conceptions is a cold engine puts out more power. This is not true. A engine must operate between 180 to 210 Degrees F. If run lower that 180 deg's F the piston rings will fail much quicker. Anything over 210 Deg's F and the OIL starts to fail early and causes sludge. You are GOLDEN! And GOOD call on the cooling pipe insulation. Over on ReverseTrike.Proboards.com we had discussions on CLUTCH issues. A lot of builders using a high powered Motorcycle engine in a heaver than motorcycle trike, they were having clutch slipping issues at upper RPM. It was found that if you research clutch springs there are some much heaver ones than stock. But if you use a hand clutch lever it may be too hard to pull. But most builders have a foot fulcrum clutch peddle. I would also replace the clutch disc's and plates, JUST to have new and fresh surfaces. Just my opinions, YMMV.
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Post by roger32849 on Mar 31, 2017 20:04:50 GMT
Hey Dave, hows it going?
As I said in my previous post I had a difficult time burping the air from the cooling system. I got all the air out and now it operates like it should. The engine heats up very fast, the water pump is actually located in the oil pan. One end of the pump is the water pump and the other is the oil pump. It also has an adjacent oil cooler. The engine runs at a temperature higher than grandpa's old Chevy this is true.
I already installed new clutch disks springs and plates. A word of caution when it comes to heavier springs. They put a lot of extra pressure on the clutch basket and if you get a little out of sequence tightening them in, you can crack the basket, or break it if you dump the clutch pedal. The perfect balance is being able to slip the clutch at initial take off and then prevent it from further slippage during a ride. The R1 engine was designed with hot rodding and doing wheelie's. It is made to do 120 MPH all day long and will Rev upwards to 13,500 RPM's. The engine will run hot and it will burn clutches out of it. You have to consider at 180 BHP, it is stitched together rather well. Clutches run less than $100.00. A drive belt in a Burgman 400 is at least that if not more. Clutches in an R1 are easier to change than the drive belt on a Burgman 400.
I need to get a day or two of clear weather, no snow, and do the brake fluid installation, tighten down a few more nuts and bolts then do some test drives. Tonight we Get 3 to 6 inches on top of the 2 inches that fell today. We will have one of those "winter to Summer" seasonal changes with no Spring in the middle. I lived in the UK for 4 years. I remember taking full advantage of a warm summer day. They were rare and a treat. The norm was rain in the forecast followed by periods of precipitation..... or so it seemed.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by roger32849 on Mar 31, 2017 20:28:09 GMT
This is the box the insulation I used for covering the cooling tubes. The small print in all of this is you need to make sure the surface to be covered (direct contact) is below 300°F. The adhesive is a limiting factor. Otherwise, it will protect up to several thousand degrees Fahrenheit of radiant heat. By the way, that box was about $100.00 USD and contained enough material to cover 2 cooling tubes 4 feet long and 1" in diameter. It also covered a span of 6" wide by 48 inches long. I had a (((((small))))) amount left over. Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 5, 2017 20:39:38 GMT
I spoke to Peter Dove of Dove Racing LLC Trenton Texas. (Now there's a blatant plug) He is ordering me a set of Canards to place in front of the wheels. I gave the matter a lot of thought and decided I would install them and utilize or incorporate their mount with securing the bonnet. I am not sure what the lead time is but any time is alright with me. I understand the addition of the canards will aid in keeping the front tires on the pavement by providing about 25 pounds of downward pressure on each tire. My main reason is the simply look BAD-A$$!!
As far as the remainder of the work to be done it is a short list. Secure the wiring,and coolant lines and do a little finish work and "Bob's your uncle" I'll be done. One of the items I will need to get help with is the alignment. I can do it myself, but it will go much easier with two. During this build I will not add an anti-roll bar before the state inspector combs over it. Once legally plated, and driven a few hundred miles, perhaps then... (maybe). There is always heavier progressive springs, but in the long run if I decide between the three options, the anti-roll bar is the way I will go if the handling calls for it.... and then it will greatly depend on how loudly it calls.
As in previous posts mentioning the powerplant, the engine is 100%. No fault codes and runs in the normal heat range. This weekend will be a major push to get some things tightened up and cinched down. Until later... as always, pictures to come...
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by edvb on Apr 5, 2017 21:38:37 GMT
Hey Roger you forgot a couple things. Better add to that order or you wont be able to change your shorts first time out
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 6, 2017 10:27:42 GMT
In my conversation with Dove Racing, I mentioned ordering a rear wing. After getting the price it was obvious it was going to drive my monthly budget past the comfort zone. I only ordered the canards. He told me he was contacting his supplier to get them the following day. As far as the wing goes, I will eventually get it, but not until a little later. The wing does look good placed over the rear wheel.. I can also see where the bags would be useful. I would have to see the trike in first person to see how everything flows... Bags, Canards and spoiler.
Roger
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Post by davej98002 on Apr 6, 2017 15:54:28 GMT
Bags, Canards and Spoiles, Oh My. Bags, Canards and Spoiles, Oh My. Bags, Canards and Spoiles, Oh My. Toto, we're not in Kansas any more.
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 7, 2017 11:16:20 GMT
Hey Roger you forgot a couple things. Better add to that order or you wont be able to change your shorts first time out That looks great, the spoiler adds to the drama, the bags give a more balanced stance and the colour scheme works well, details like seat belts matching the grp are always a good trick, oh and the air box, real nice.
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 7, 2017 22:10:02 GMT
I will be giving a follow up call on the canards. Not sure when to expect them, but I did call Dove Racing LLC to get them sent directly to me. The wing looks wicked good. I thought I saw a C-6 Corvette with something similar.
As far as Toto and the canards, Wings and bags. Well, I ain't in Kansas neither. A heads up Dave, I will be headed in your direction this June. I suspect around the 9th or so. On a long cross country ride. I will not be going solo this time, a good friend will be going with me on his Harley Tri-Glide....
Well that it
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by birubhai on Apr 22, 2017 8:29:37 GMT
Hey Roger you forgot a couple things. Better add to that order or you wont be able to change your shorts first time out Hi Ed, been thinking of similar wing in mini form for ExoR without welding but as a bolt on option. Any info on this possible? Many thanks Babr
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 23, 2017 10:03:34 GMT
Babr:
No doubt it would look cool, but since no one is manufacturing the Eco-Exo any more, the likelihood of getting a "one off" rear wing seems a bit of a reach without it costing the Earth. The wing part could easily be manufactured with a little help from a local fab shop. The real challenge is to make the support, and make it so it was adjustable, plus handle the constant downward pressure the wing would provide at higher speeds. It is all a bit tricky when artifical loading is placed on the suspension. Handling characteristics are changed because the CG is altered from a static position to a variable one depending on speed and angle of attack of the wing. A lot of the muscle cars built in the 60's and early 70's had rear wings attached to the trunk. These were mostly ornamental and probably had little or no effect on handling. The only exception was possibly the Daytona 500 and Superbird from Chrysler corp. Both were "B" body cars badged Dodge and Plymouth.
If you come up with a working model, I'd like to see it.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 28, 2017 10:52:13 GMT
I have been sidetracked a bit from the maintenance and the build on my TR1ke. I've been preparing for a motorcycle ride to California and back. I will be leaving June 1st on a 1990 Honda GL1500 Goldwing. I've been busy getting it ready and doing the needed maintenance to get it safe and reliable.
Once I get the brakes filled with fluid and their rear fender secured the TR1ke will be ready for a road test. I plan on doing this before I leave for California. It's true what they say it's all in the details. One of the details I have yet to finish is the addition of the front canards. I am still waiting for Dove Racing to acquire them for me. They are on order and should be here mid month. Once I get a road test done I will need to align the front end more precisely and secure the small bits and pieces that are left to be done. I will be adding the rear wing later this summer. I will add it after I have the roadworthiness inspection completed. The less there is to inspect the more likely it will pass.
Today I will place the scales under each tire to get the weights. Stuart asked me for them last month, but there have been compelling reasons why I have not done this yet. It is long overdue. My apologies Stuart.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 28, 2017 15:22:27 GMT
Today I will place the scales under each tire to get the weights. Stuart asked me for them last month, but there have been compelling reasons why I have not done this yet. It is long overdue. My apologies Stuart. Roger Worcester, Massachusetts No worries Roger, I assumed you had been busy with stuff. I still have my original calcs so will post them next week and add yours in.
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 30, 2017 18:07:38 GMT
I was procuring my bathroom scale when my Mrs was at work. Not that she would mind me using it to weigh the trike. After I got the combined weight it was in excess of a thousand pounds after adding the sums. It just didn't seem right, but there it was. I asked my wife (once she arrived home) if the scales were accurate and she informed me that when the batteries get low for the LED readout, the accuracy tends to drift toward the high side. Soooo, I went to the corner market and bought 2 replacement batteries... (darned expensive little coin sized things) and installed them....correctly. It seems as though, the scales are just as inaccurate with new batteries installed.
She headed out to do some errands and said she would pop by Wal-Mart and get a replacement. She bought a nice one It's made of glass. Not sure I want to test the compression strength of tempered glass. I am in the process of making a plywood pad to cover the glass. Let's see what happens
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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