When I worked on the F-15 Fighter back in my USAF career all of the wiring was secured using waxed dacron cord. It was white with red ticking. If you had to cut into a wire bundle, the lacing was always nicely done and wrapped very tight. When I did the TR1ke I used the plastic wire ties to gather the bundles then lacing cord. I used a half hitch type knot/stitch. Since none of the wiring bundles in the TR1ke are long runs the half hitch stays tight, is easy to wrap, and easy to remove if necessary.
If you know of a mail order business that sells waxed cord in colors I’d like to know who. I had a heck of a time finding just the white.
Thanks for the links but this is the real lightweight string. I am looking for the round 1/16” diameter stuff. I have a spool of the Black flat like in the links you sent. It would be easy enough to trace my paypal transactions and buy another spool of the string I want. I rarely use the black, the white stuff grips and doesn’t slip or stretch. Here is what I have:
I removed the first flat one's link above. The second one is around 1/16", round, 9 ply and has 150 pound pull to yeald.
Somewhere in the garage I have a spool each of White/Cream, Black, Red, Blue and Orange.
Yep, once you pull these tight and tie a square knot, it is NOT coming loose. But they cut off with scissors.
But with waxed twine it will not cut you if you run your arm on it. A cut wire tie has caused enough cuts and gouges, I had to get 5 stitches in my arm from 1 nylon wire tie's cut tip.
I too use mostly the cream color twine. But when I was doing repairs to a GTE small telephone switch, I used different colors for each system, Red was POWER leads, Black was Grounds, Blue was cooling fan system leads.
On two wheels now, one is a car tire. Looking for a 2F1R trike.
I am poor, please do not ask me for money or tools. I will ride 100 miles to help for a beer and sandwich.
Here is the picture of the mounted J&M CB. It fits good behind the turn signal stalk. I can easily see the channel and can reach the controls without shifting my weight forward. This unit also has a built in intercom with a constant hot mike open to both headsets.
The actual mount for the CB looks a bit like the “Wonky Donkey” but once the system is mounted and secured, nothing of the mount is actually visible. Behind the GRP I installed a triangular piece of flat stock 3/16” steel. The steel has 3 each threaded 1/4” x 20 holes that sandwich the bonnet GRP and the mount. It is quite solid.
I started routing the wires and cables for the J&M CB radio yesterday. What a snarled bunch of wiring that turned out to be. The temperature in the garage was around freezing. The electrical wiring was stiff and not exactly pliable. When I unbundled it, naturally it coiled right back up, like it had tension memory or something. I brought the bundles into the house and placed them by the heat register to warm them...... meanwhile back at the garage..... I drilled passage holes and marked the route for the wires. After the wiring harness warmed up and became user friendly I returned to the garage and laid the wires out. I managed to get it almost all done. I connected the power, antenna and ground along with the noise filter. In the end the CB powers up and the channel memory functions as it should, so all is good with the electrical wiring side of the install. Since the unit is designed with only a preamp for helmet speakers and helmet microphones only, no other wiring was necessary except to run the 6 pin helmet connectors. If the connector wiring is long enough they will be routed through the tunnel then exiting to go beneath the seats and pop up at the left and right sides of the seating area..... (OR) I will route them along the middle side rail at the top edge of the splash shield I installed this summer. By the time I get around to securing the connectors I may need to borrow the wife’s hand held hair dryer to make the connector cables pliable. I need to get about a dozen black teflon wire clamps after Christmas to complete the job.
As it is the wiring is finished with the exception of the aux power socket. There isn’t much more I can install. The main wiring bundle is taking on a life of its own. In the end, it will be a decent reliable vehicle that I can take for extended outings. The installation of the CB radio is as much for the built in intercom as it is for communications with other riders. The aux power socket is next, but will wait until after the Christmas holidays.
Oh yea, I remember 8 tracks well. I also remember when AMC installed an AM/FM/cassette/CB their cars back in the mid seventies. It wasn’t a bad unit. The CB model I have in the TR1ke has been around for years. I believe 2003 was the first year that J&M put them on the market.. They are very reliable and are full power 40 channel CB’s.
PLEASE NOTE: I have resigned as moderator and submitted the letter of resignation to admin. I will still check back to see if there any posts on my threads. Since no new TR1ke chassis are being made by an authorized manufacturer the TR1ke section of the forum is closed to new threads except by current members. So, if you have an ESC Kit you will not be allowed to start a thread on the MEV Proboard forum. You can go to thefollowing: reversetrikes.freeforums.net and they will be more than happy to have you as a member. I have copied and pasted all content of my TR1ke and Eco-Exo builds from this forum to the reversetrikes.freeforums.net. You may ask any questions you like and I will be more than happy to answer.
Whether or not admin realizes they have closed the door on current members as well as new for the TR1ke builds... sad really.
Last Edit: Mar 19, 2019 23:49:45 GMT by roger32849