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Post by gwnwar on Jan 30, 2017 16:04:46 GMT
Fin.. My bad after seeing mount on frame those are NA mounts. no need for the support washer under the mount as long as the rod does NOT slide through hole for it.. The NA (89>97) bump stop are made on to the boot is different from the NB (98>05) as it NA has a washer molded onto the top of it/bump stop to stop rod from going through it.. The NA mount as made takes the place of the mount plate and rubber bushings and washers used on a NB setup.. Also the springs seat different to top mount You are really better going with the NB mount and compete hardware kit.. Check eBay for used mounts and hardware needed.
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Post by Fin on Jan 30, 2017 16:46:29 GMT
Thanks gwnwar . Actually bought these from another member - caveat emptor! I'll assemble and fit and look for NB ones as I want new shocks anyway, but don't yet know how low I can go  |
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 30, 2017 19:33:01 GMT
Fin. If you use the NA mounts with a bump stop and the lower bushing you will have less compression travel of the rod and hit the stop faster.
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Post by Fin on Jan 31, 2017 9:51:52 GMT
Fin. If you use the NA mounts with a bump stop and the lower bushing you will have less compression travel of the rod and hit the stop faster. Won't all fit on the damper, looks like a super-sized shish kebab, so I'll try without the lower bushing/washer and.look for some NB caps |
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 31, 2017 15:21:36 GMT
Just make sure you have washer under mount to stop rod from going through the mount.
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Post by Fin on Feb 3, 2017 20:08:25 GMT
Was about to give up and call Dave for help, when I had a breakthrough and got them tightened and fettled. Blow me if I didn't then stumble across a new set of TA Tech coilovers, plus an Aprilla exhaust I couldn't resist, so hopefully problem solved
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Post by Fin on Feb 4, 2017 19:15:55 GMT
Offered up the brake & clutch pedal assemblies, but having problems getting the steering column to engage. Double-checked the manual that the spacers remain on the driver's side of the firewall, but the spline of the steering wheel column is short of the rack & pinion UJ end by about the thickness of the spacers. Read from a previous answer by gwnwar that the measurement for the length of the column is between 0.593 - 0.595, so will measure tomorrow in case it has "shrunk". However, the asymmetric mounting bracket on the column reaches the brake assembly plate on the right, but is short of the clutch assembly plate on the left (marked A below). So, do I need to slice off the spacers on (just) the brake plate so both brackets reach, or will that make for an unacceptable height difference on the pedals?? 
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Post by Fin on Feb 11, 2017 16:26:33 GMT
Cold slow progress today. Got the pedals and steering wheel mounted, but will take them off for painting when the floor is being fitted. The front upper wishbones are going to need cutting, so decided to mount the rear ones to see how they fit. Nearside was no problem, and looked good, but there is a major problem with the rear nearside lower damper mount.
These have a captive square nut held in place inside the hollow wishbone, so the bolt slots through the wishbone and damper mount, and engages into the nut. Unfortunately, the bolt holding the old damper refused to come loose and has spun the nut loose of its retaining tabs. It is now spinning freely with the bolt.
The nut can just about be accessed though a small hole underneath, and have tried jamming it with a screwdriver, spanner, pliers etc, but it is still turning with the bolt. Will take the lower wishbone off tomorrow for better access, but any suggestions as to how the almost inaccessible nut can be locked tightly enough to loosen the bolt??
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Post by miket on Feb 11, 2017 17:43:24 GMT
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Post by Fin on Feb 11, 2017 17:47:36 GMT
Like it. Will try tomorrow, although the nut is stuck on the bolt like poo on a blanket! |
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Post by miket on Feb 11, 2017 18:00:52 GMT
The special tool was primarily for offering up the nut and getting the bolt to thread in to it again. I was able to get an open ended spanner on to the no-longer-captive-nut sufficient to loosen / tighten from the bolt head.
Good luck - no doubt you've left it soaking.
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Post by Stiggy on Feb 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT
Hi, in the build guide just below the pedal assembly picture are the following notes which should help you.
There are several points worthy of note in the above picture.
1. The spacers on the back of the brake pedal are left attached on the driver side of the
bulkhead. Normally these are cut off and placed on the engine bay side, depending on the
steering column length.
10. When bolting the steering column in place you may find that the bolt in the clutch pedal for
the column needs replacing with a longer one and a stack of washers or a spacer is required.
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Post by Fin on Feb 11, 2017 18:43:54 GMT
Good luck - no doubt you've left it soaking. I have now |
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Post by Fin on Feb 11, 2017 18:49:29 GMT
1. The spacers on the back of the brake pedal are left attached on the driver side of the bulkhead. Normally these are cut off and placed on the engine bay side, depending on the steering column length. 10. When bolting the steering column in place you may find that the bolt in the clutch pedal for the column needs replacing with a longer one and a stack of washers or a spacer is required. Thanks Stuart. I was thrown by the picture showing the spacers on the driver's side of the firewall Sliced them off, and all is well |
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 11, 2017 20:41:01 GMT
You may just want to open the hole a little to get a spanner onto the nut for the lower shock mount.. It has been done many time..
Then the special tool to hold new nut in place to start threads..
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