|
Post by driver on Jul 3, 2016 21:14:17 GMT
Hey guys having problems bleeding the brakes. Full stainless braided hoses and 2 wilwood brakes at front. All connections are tight yet no pressure is felt or very little. Procedure pump brake pedal, hold firm, open bleed nipple,close bleed nipple and repeat. 2 man job I have notice corrosion on servo where it meets master cylinder?
Should there be a air leak where the servo meets master cylinder this is where the corrosion is? Master cylinder and servo are very expensive but with curborough round the corner I'm not sure what to do.
The push rod from the pedal to servo I don't think I've adjusted it when removing but what length should it be? I have put spacers where the servo meets bulkhead engine side would this cause the issue? Thanks for any input
|
|
|
Post by Toed64 on Jul 3, 2016 23:07:21 GMT
There's often a bit of rust on the servo - don't fret.
A very quick and simple bleeding technique from my biking days:
Take a large syringe and a piece of windscreen washer pipe. fill the syringe with fresh fluid and attach the tube to the bleed nipple. Slacken the nipple and bleed the brake back to the cylinder. You may need a few syringes full - but it's a dead easy way to get the air out of the lines in a new system.
This was what I did on my Exocet and I've used this dozens of times on bikes - which are often much more difficult to bleed.
Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Jul 4, 2016 4:18:29 GMT
Toed64 way will work good.. or Start by bleeding the master cly. then work/bleed your way to the back and front at each joint that will get fluid into the line.. once lines have fluid then do a good bleed starting with left rear.. Keep an eye on the master fluid bowl.
|
|
|
Post by driver on Jul 4, 2016 8:35:36 GMT
Thanks guys, but should there be a gasket from master cylinder to servo?theres a little indentation on servo where it meets master cyl and air comes out from that? Anyone near bham who could help me out? Will return the favour
|
|