Component Renovation

[acra]

Hi guys, I was just having a think about post-stripping of the Donor. I don't know if I'm the only one, but I feel that if we're building ourselves a car, we might as well go the whole way and get the running gear looking nice!

I'd be interested in hearing people's tips and techniques for getting their donor components looking tip-top - or if people aren't bothering?

Just got the idea for this after looking at the videos lifting the shell, and it all looks pretty rusty under there!

[Deleted]

take a look at my exocet build (alexs exocet) I stripped the donor and totally dismantled the chassis and suspension to detail.
I found that wire discs attachments for drills removed most of the paint and rust and a trusty angle grinder used very gently can remove more stubborn issues.
I then went down the line of Hammerite. to avoid an odd looking finish i went for a hammered finish paint. first coat brushed on to give a good coverage, the second coat i 'stippled' on with a brush. simply dabbing the paint on gives a matt finish which hides many imperfections and avoids any streaking.
Black chassis with red detailing on the brakes and components.
Remember to use heat resistant paint if you do any engine parts.
Alex

[Deleted]

ps, dont pain any threads or nuts until after theyre fitted and in place at they are tricky to tighten with a load of hammerite on them! plus youll be doing and undoing them a few times its sure to come off and look shabby. painting all on my nuts and bolts after the IVA test.

[sscrow]

Hey Alex , my kit is on order, so cant give any practical advice. But I went and bought a karcher sand blasting attachment for the pressure washer. Found an old electric motor in the garage, was a bit rusty and was also painted. It worked an absolute treat, so will be using this on the parts when they arrive from mx5 Heaven. I have also done a comparison between Hammerite rust remover and vinegar over a 24 hr period. The vinegar wins hands down, you wont believe the results.

[squelch]

having done a full strip down and rebuild on a classic RangeRover not long ago (Nothing other than a old Landrover is more rusty or dirty)
Poly Abrasive discs are great for removing paint and rust www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9341&frostProductName=Stripping%20Disc%20(100mm) and can be bought for the drill or angle grinder
www.frost.co.uk/ also do loads of other resto kit and paints and are worth a check out

[Deleted]

Would have loved to be able to sandblast/mediablast mine for ease and better results. didnt bother with a rust treatment as i found most of the corrosion was actually flaking paint. hammerite has a form or rust retardant in it anyway and rust needs moisture and air to progress so hopefully the hammerite paint will have done the trick and formed a solid cover.
Time will tell i guess!

[sscrow]

Alex, how did you apply the hammerite, did you spray? , because you have achieved a good finish. I need to source cheaper shot though, at £ 40 for 20 kg from machinemart , and a rusty chassis, and we could lose the house!!!!!! I already decided to use hammerite, but dont know how I am going to apply it.

[Deleted]

I brushed the first coat on normally to get good coverage then dabbed the second coat on to get a matt finish. Hammerite has a habit of drying with lighter and darker swirles in it where the brush moves the mixture around. If you dab the second coat on with the end of the bristles its a nice matt finish which hides most minor imperfections and doesnt dry with streaks.
Best way i found was to paint the fisrt coat, and wrap the brush in clingfilm or plastic, then its a tiny bit sfiffer the next day as the paint goes gooey and it stipples/dabs the paint on much better.

[acra]

Oct 24, 2010 17:53:52 GMT @alexandeharris1981 said:

take a look at my exocet build (alexs exocet) I stripped the donor and totally dismantled the chassis and suspension to detail.
I found that wire discs attachments for drills removed most of the paint and rust and a trusty angle grinder used very gently can remove more stubborn issues.
I then went down the line of Hammerite. to avoid an odd looking finish i went for a hammered finish paint. first coat brushed on to give a good coverage, the second coat i 'stippled' on with a brush. simply dabbing the paint on gives a matt finish which hides many imperfections and avoids any streaking.
Black chassis with red detailing on the brakes and components.
Remember to use heat resistant paint if you do any engine parts.
Alex

Some good hints there, cheers buddy!
One question, did you do the engine in a similar way? Most mx5's I've viewed so far, the engines are looking a bit worse for wear - it's only cosmetic, but I figure that you've gotta aim for near-perfect cosmetics when it's first on the road!

[Deleted]

acra,
having the engine rebuilt with new fast road cams and a general revamp.
speaking to my mechanic, the top mazda stamped cam cover doesnt really need hight temp paint, nor does the block itself, as this only reaches about 85degrees, which normal halfords spray paint and lacquer can take.
the top of the engine (cam carrying block0 ideally should be left as bare metal as this is for heat exchange. paint (depending on what you use) can alter the heat exchange levels and affect performance slightly.

you can see my cam cover in my thread, ill update with engine pics when i get it early next week.

hes spraying the block, sump and all the pully wheels, plus giving the alternator and thermostat housings a chemical clean for me.

[acra]

That's surprising about the Cam Cover, but I guess it makes sense - else the entire engine bay would be getting way too hot!

I'm not really into full engine paint, I like small detailing (such as the cover, piping etc) and the rest I just want to be all sparkely!

It'd be cool to see it all done