dmcd
Newbie
Posts: 8 
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Post by dmcd on Mar 31, 2016 17:21:32 GMT
Hi all, been reading the boards for the last few months and started stripping my mx5 back in June / July last year and just started the rebuild after lots of shot blasting and powder coating.
My plan has been to strip everything of the donor, sell the bits I don't need which is now done and then refurb all the components I do need as I go. As soon as I have a rolling chassis I will be ordering the Exocet kit!!'
I split the engine and gearbox in order to replace the clutch and I've replaced the rear crank seal and I tapped it into the cases as far as it would go. I've just read a guide on the web which say it should only be pushed in so the seal is flush with the crank case. Does anyone happen to know if this is likely to be ok or whether I need to start again? I don't think I'm likely to get the seal out in one piece!
I will pop some photos up when I get 5.
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Post by p5curly on Mar 31, 2016 18:23:05 GMT
Welcome to the forum seal should be ok
Where are you based there may be another exocet builder near you
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Post by buildercg on Apr 1, 2016 0:15:21 GMT
Hi dmcd, Welcome to the forums. I just replaced my rear main seal a few weeks ago. If you've pushed it all the way down then it's very likely it's too far in and the seal will fail. I don't know of a good way to remove it without damaging it so you'll probably need to get a new seal. I spent the dough and bought Flyin Miata's Rear Main Seal installation tool. Not necessary, but for a newbie like me I have confidence I didn't push it too far in. I didn't take a picture but the seal on my '93 engine was essentially flush with the surrounding metal once properly installed. |
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Post by abc123 on Apr 1, 2016 5:44:35 GMT
Where are you located? I'd be willing to send you my FM rear seal installer to use, just pay shipping both ways so I can have it back.
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dmcd
Newbie
Posts: 8
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Post by dmcd on Apr 1, 2016 20:34:09 GMT
Thanks for the welcome, the offer of the fitting tool and the advice. I didn't have too much trouble getting the seal into place but I just tapped it in too far. Obviously a bit of conflicting advice here but a bit to think about.
I'm based in Gloucestershire so if there are any Exocets about I would love to have a look round one in the flesh. Please let me know of any local ones?
Many thanks
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dmcd
Newbie
Posts: 8
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Post by dmcd on Jul 7, 2016 10:57:26 GMT
Hi all, long time no post but made some good progress recently and ordered my kit from Stuart which is due around the 22nd August so not i need to be finishing the rebuild of the running gear and start getting some of the parts lined up.
I have a few questions:
- does anyone know what size break pipes are required? i've been looking to start running the pipes down the pff from back to front but not entirely sure what i need?
- again same with the size of the fuel pipes? anyone know a good place to these from?
- I'm looking at gaz pro gold coilovers, again anyone have any recommendations for where to source these?
- what brake pads do people recommend? are standard road pads good enough?
- does anyone know where to source an exhaust that exits through the center and are there any performance gains to be had from any specific pipes?
many thanks
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 8, 2016 3:02:10 GMT
What year is your donor.. Are you going to force inject it. SC or turbo.. What are your plans for use of car..
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dmcd
Newbie
Posts: 8
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Post by dmcd on Jul 8, 2016 15:13:02 GMT
Hi gwnwar, thanks for coming back to me, my donor was a 1996 (p reg) 1.8. I would like to do forced induction at some point but want to get it built and on the road first so that's really phase 2.
My plan for the car is a bit of road use but mainly track days and may be some auto tests or hill climbs. Cheers
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 8, 2016 22:37:29 GMT
For the brake lines, 3/16 or 6mm tube doubled flared 45deg. Make sure you use the right thread to match the calipers,master,junction in rear,rubber hoses.. leave a few feet extra both ends.
For gas line, 5/16 or 8mm.. Do a very small double flare just to stop hose from slipping off.. leave extra..
4" long 1" flat stock going up into tunnel is a good way to install lines front to rear to secure P clips to..
Keep your old fittings..
Shocks, what is your budget.. You could go OEM to get it on road then switch..
Pads OEM type are good and cheap.. racing might want to upgrade..
Exhaust, custom center outlet others should chime in.. 2.0 >2.5" for non forced.. 3" for turbo.. I would build it to run with header pipe then take to shop for the rest if you don't weld..
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Post by miket on Jul 9, 2016 9:19:30 GMT
... and with the brake lines, don't forget to put on the nut before flaring the end!
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Post by martinw on Jul 9, 2016 10:03:22 GMT
... and with the brake lines, don't forget to put on the nut before flaring the end! I can't imagine anyone has ever done that. That would be stupid beyond belief. What sort of idiots do you think we are! Ah.....come to think of it I might have done it once *innocent whistling*  Martin |
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dmcd
Newbie
Posts: 8
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Post by dmcd on Sept 18, 2016 10:51:26 GMT
Hi all, carrying on with my build and replaced my gearbox oil yesterday and it only took 1.7 ltrs of oil before it started coming out of the filler plug. All the books say it takes about 2ltrs?
Thanks
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 18, 2016 21:33:29 GMT
Did you replace the lube in the turret too....
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dmcd
Newbie
Posts: 8
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Post by dmcd on Sept 19, 2016 10:10:20 GMT
I haven't replaced the fluid in the turret yet but it's on the list. Is the turret oil included in the 2ltrs for the gearbox?
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 19, 2016 15:46:18 GMT
If the trans wasn't level it will take less to fill. Did a lube change in my last week it took just less then 2 qts.
The turret doesn't take much 80>95cc.
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