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Post by travisj on Feb 1, 2016 18:30:48 GMT
I guess Air Guard folks love Exocets!
I did sell my donor. I think they shutdown Miller unfortunately, but hopefully a new owner will open it back up soon. But that does sound fun.
I'll be home mid summer, my goal is get it registered and on the road before the weather turns again. I get about a month off so lots of time to make up for being gone.
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Post by gl21133 on Feb 1, 2016 22:37:25 GMT
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Post by travisj on Feb 2, 2016 16:24:45 GMT
Oh awesome. Hopefully I'll get a chance to run the car there this year.
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Post by travisj on Feb 10, 2017 22:21:19 GMT
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Post by travisj on Jul 31, 2017 2:33:12 GMT
Long overdue update: Wiring is done, it was a long time going through diagrams, cutting, soldering, taping, testing, etc. (took me about 3 months working ~5 hrs a week). Turned out great, everything works and fits in the wiring tray fairly easily:  The fuse boxes are mounted below the wiring tray using a bit of aluminum angle and I notched out the trans tunnel to run the wires into the engine bay. No wires go over the front tube and are mostly hidden under the tray. The immobilizer is also mounted under the tray with heavy duty velcro.  I like how the headlights, turns, and side marker turned out. Both the turn signal and side marker stay lit up with the parking lights and also flash with the turn signal. At least one of them should be visible from any front or side angle. The turn signal is housed in this eyebolt that screws into the end of the headlight bolt.  The taillight install is pretty straight forward, so no pictures. I'm still working on mounting the gauges, gauge pod, and hazard switch. |
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 31, 2017 4:49:34 GMT
Nice work on the wiring.. Like were the fuse boxes are..
Did you happen to put a couple of drain holes into the tray just in case..
Are you planning to cover the tray..
Is that the OEM vac hose to brake master. if not did you put the check valve into it..
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Post by travisj on Aug 4, 2017 19:52:11 GMT
The bottom corners of the tray are open for passing wires through, so plenty of drainage. The tray comes with a cover. My wiring fits well enough that the cover sits flat, which seems to be tough for some.
Looks like the OEM hose, you can feel the valve in it. Looks like the later years don't have it labeled like the earlier years.
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Post by travisj on Aug 4, 2017 20:06:47 GMT
Next part done: Transcover. It looked like it would fit like junk at initial test fittings, but after cutting out the shifter hole it fit somewhat decent other than some pretty big gaps at the firewall. First up I insulated it against exhaust and trans heat. I used self adhesive DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield and its tape and it turned out really well. I also used a smaller piece to insulate the first 2 feet on the drivers side of the steel driveshaft tunnel (no picture).  I used vertical bulb trim to close the gaps at the firewall.  And trim with horizontal bulb at the shifter side.  I had to muscle the cover in place to line the holes back up after adding the trim, but it turned out really well and seems almost completely sealed. Some of these gaps were nearly 1/2 inch before:  I'm happy with how it turned out overall, better than I expected. I used a universal Hurst shifter boot. My cover had a decent number of gouges and scratches so I roughed it up with some sandpaper to try to create a visually appealing vertical pattern. It looks okay.  |
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Post by travisj on Aug 4, 2017 20:24:33 GMT
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Post by travisj on Jun 23, 2018 23:18:49 GMT
I now have the hood mounted. It ended up great (at least for a VVT motor), just low enough to cover the radiator.  I used the bayonet method to support the hood in the front using 1" and 1.5" wide 1/8" aluminum bar. The bottom mounts are also my radiator mounts.    I used bicycle cork tape on the mounts to provide some cushion and hopefully keep them from wearing on the fiberglass.  The sides fit tight enough against the frame I just cushioned the frame.  |
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