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Post by jon on Jul 23, 2015 22:33:20 GMT
Update! Got to work on my frame. Took the day off work and Dad came to help. Floors went on easy.  I'll say, the bulkheads had an excessive number of rivets! Both front bulkheads were not perfect fits. The passenger side is not designed correctly, as has been noted a few times on here and facebook. The holes do not line up with the middle tube, and an edge protrudes slightly into the tunnel area. Not a big deal, and should be expected on a 'kit' car, but would be easy for Exomotive to fix in the future.   We got all the bulkheads in, I think I wore out my drill bit  Here is a sneak peak at what was sent to me today, might be picking up tomorrow:  |
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Post by jon on Aug 1, 2015 17:38:40 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 1, 2015 18:20:19 GMT
Make sure to use a new bolt in front crank pulley.. Are you planning to use power steering?? See bracket still on engine.. Nice clean engine build..
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Post by jon on Aug 1, 2015 19:21:36 GMT
Yep. New bolt is on the way. Will loctite key and bolt to mitigate wear on the keyway.
No power steering.
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 1, 2015 20:24:02 GMT
So why the bracket?? While engine is out you might want to cut the metal tube from water pump to rear of engine rotate end toward tube from head add a small piece of tubing and just use a small straight piece of hose to connect tubes together.. Instead of looping a longer piece..
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Post by jon on Aug 2, 2015 0:01:47 GMT
Just never took the bracket off...
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Post by tonysoprano on Aug 2, 2015 2:08:57 GMT
So why the bracket?? While engine is out you might want to cut the metal tube from water pump to rear of engine rotate end toward tube from head add a small piece of tubing and just use a small straight piece of hose to connect tubes together.. Instead of looping a longer piece.. If you cut the tube you lose the barbed end which increases the likelihood of an eventual leak. The solution to that is to crank down like crazy on the hose clamps which is not my preference. A local Autozone let me look at their inventory of pre-formed heater hoses. I found one that had a pre-formed radius that very closely matched the bend I needed to get from the tubing to my thermostat housing (I did the coolant re-route). I seriously considered removing the metal tubing altogether and tapping the mixing manifold for a brass NPT fitting. Then running heater hose all the way from the mixing manifold to the rear housing nipple. I got lazy though.  |
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 2, 2015 5:45:46 GMT
If you cut the tube aft of the bracket to the exhaust manifold rotate cut piece @ 180deg. and weld in place or add a small length of tube to cut to push bend back some and weld you still have the barb on end.. Over torquing a clamp only cuts the hose not good.. Running a piece of rubber hose under the exhaust manifold would lead to a brittle hose after awhile for heat from manifold..
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Post by tonysoprano on Aug 2, 2015 10:58:06 GMT
If you cut the tube aft of the bracket to the exhaust manifold rotate cut piece @ 180deg. and weld in place or add a small length of tube to cut to push bend back some and weld you still have the barb on end.. Over torquing a clamp only cuts the hose not good.. Running a piece of rubber hose under the exhaust manifold would lead to a brittle hose after awhile for heat from manifold.. That's a Racing Beat header in the pic. The lower radiator hose is a measured 1" from the front header tube. By comparison, heater hose running from an NPT fitting at the mixing manifold would never get any closer than 2.25" to any of the header tubes. That lower radiator hose is at least 5 years old (I owned my miata donor) and it's not brittle at all. I personally would run heater hose from the mixing manifold before trying to splice weld a length of 5/8 tubing.  |
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Post by jon on Aug 2, 2015 22:59:47 GMT
Rollerskate is getting close to finished  |
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Post by jon on Aug 5, 2015 14:21:39 GMT
Question: When looping the coolant lines that would go to the heater core, does one have to add a restriction in place to limit flow? I have heard talk of this, but do not understand it.
Any insight is appreciated.
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 5, 2015 15:16:35 GMT
No restriction need..need the water flowing to cool head..
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Post by rharris19 on Aug 5, 2015 15:39:01 GMT
Don't worry about a restriction inline. I didn't go through your build completely, but if you are looking to track the car, I would consider doing a reroute and block off the front water outlet. It is simple and fairly inexpensive to do. If you would like, I can find you the info on it.
If you aren't tracking it, then don't worry about it.
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Post by jon on Aug 5, 2015 16:01:02 GMT
Yeah, I am planning on tracking it.
A few searches have turned results of people on other miata forums claiming that bypassing the the heater core results in poor flow through the radiator. That is what I am trying to understand.
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Post by jon on Aug 5, 2015 16:06:05 GMT
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